Long Travel BS Thread

This is how it goes with every gopro I use.
My hero 7 has constant OS freezes and the battery life of about 30 min.
Kinda want to go with something else, but idk what’s a comparable action cam that’s as durable.

 

I hard wired a marine usb plug into my grill to give cameras constant battery life. Same on my race car...Usb on front and in the cab. I also use cheap $30 cameras from Amazon and don't have shutting off issues unless we restart the race car, then we lose footage unless we stop/start cycle the camera.

 

I have lots of sending pics and videos but nobody here probably cares about our sandbox. haha

 

Let’s see some videos!

 

I’d love to go play in that sandbox someday!

 

The only way I know how to do video on here is youtube or instagram, so sorry for the social media plug but here are a few but there are alot more.

https://youtu.be/DaecCVb4LpM
https://youtube.com/shorts/g_ujqksiK-g?feature=share
https://youtu.be/37b8GZrLpGw


https://www.instagram.com/p/CNoChRCBx7f/?hl=en
https://www.instagram.com/p/B2mAUoCAzUL/?hl=en

 

The problem with Silver Lake is that it is small. That generally why there is so much jumping because its pretty much like going to a track. SO once you have it down you want to just hit some sweet jumps. Plus it easy to loop back around and hit it again.

 

Sounds similar to Pismo, it was a lot smaller than I expected the first time there. Got the impression that dunes are Always HUGE from Glamis,

 

i have been to pismo and it is double the size. Silver lake dunes are a large area but vehicles are only allowed on 400 acres

 

Oh dang, that is small.

 

When using only main leaf to check bump heights, can I use main leaf from my current pack or wait until I have new pack and use that leaf for reference?
Dumb question maybe.

 

So long as the main leafs are the same length, then it won’t matter

 

Is there anywhere that i can get tube caps with a hole drilled in them already? I like making those tube mounting points (dunno the name but if you're into fabrication you've probably seen em by now) and captive nuts at the end of tubing because it saves so much time later on, but it's such misery drilling and cutting out the little round pieces
Then again what fab work isn't like that lmao

 

I think I can picture what you’re talking about. What about just cutting the holes out with a hole saw? Then you’ve got a perfect circle with an already centered hole.

 

i have a plasma table.....could cut ya out whatever u want........

 

Have you checked with: RuffStuff Specialties: Mounting Plates 4x4 Off Road Parts - Off Road Fabrication Parts - TMR Customs Barnes 4WD If these Co. don't they might be willing to if you need plenty. Or just check with your local metal suppliers.

 

A while back I asked this but I am finally getting around to rebuilding/revalving my suspension. I have a couple final questions since this will be my first time going outside of mfg’r specs.

First the truck. It’s a third gen with dirt king 3.5” front with their dual shock kit. I’m running non adjustable king coil overs and king bypasses. Rear is a giant sprint under also with kings. All of the parts were purchased separately. I probably would have been better buying everything together so it would be valved correctly. Both of the bypasses are fully open and it still performs like a Sky Jacker kit from the 90’s.

The front has an All Pro tube bumper with a winch. 3/16 steel skids all way to the t case.

Here’s what I am wondering…

Front coils. They are currently whatever length comes with a Dirt King kit but I upped them to 700# springs. When I asked here people said I should try 600-650 coils. My 700’s have about 3/4” preload to clear my tires. If I was to to drop down to a lighter coil should I up there length and run less preload? Any suggestions here?

Rear shocks. Again I run these fully open so I’d like to change the valving to a point I can have some adjustment to tune with. They are currently 15/10 for valving. Do you guys usually just do one step or should I do a couple and then use the adjusters to tune.

Same with the front bypasses. They are 0.018 compression and 0.010 rebound. Any suggestions to change these? These aren’t as bad as the rear so maybe one step?

This got a bit long. So apologies for the boredom. Thanks for the help as usual.

Edit: according to downsouth the next longest spring is 18”. So maybe I can risk it and drop to a 650 and add a little more preload.

Edit 2: I should have looked on their site a a bit more.

My options for rear shims are 0.012 or 0.010. Is dropping all the way to 0.010 too much? Or which of those should I start with. Im thinking the smaller of the two but no idea.

The front is easy. Drop to 0.015 since it’s currently not as bad as the rear.

 

rebound on the rear should be.008"s
spring length can stay the same you dont gain anything by running a longer spring.

whats the valving in the coilover in the front? the bypass seens like a good starting point honestly. theres probably too much valving in the coilover

 

IMO, 700# spring is too much spring rate in regards to ride quality. They're great if your trying to bomb rough terrain all of the time but not ideal for ride quality. The only benefit you get from going with a longer spring is more spring travel to allow more preload. I doubt that will be an issue with a 16" spring, even if you were to drop spring rate a bit and add more preload then what you currently have. You can do some simple math to confirm the block height on the springs you're interested in but I don't think it'll be an issue.

I'm with @Basikbiker on this. Open up your C/O and figure out what's in there. If you pieced this kit together the C/O is likely valved for a single shock application. I'd start there.

In regard to the rear, are you running a bypass?

 

I was in this same boat. I was trying to decide if i wanted to go to 18inch 600lb or 16 650. I ordered some 16 650 last week. The 16x600 just didn't do it for me. I was maybe sitting and inch and a half over stock height and and the coil was nearing its limit of preload so i didn't want to put anymore on there since coil bind would happen. I think the 16x650 will do the trick fro me. On my mid travel i had 700lb and while they held the weight of the truck well and i barely had any preload it was a bit stiff for my liking so i think the 650 should do the trick?