Long Travel BS Thread

I’ll go ahead and agree with what others have said. Need to open up the coil over and see what’s in it.

My front is pretty close to that setup minus the winch. Running 10/12 in the coil over and same as you in the bypass. Also I feel the 700# spring is appropriate given the extra weight up front. That’s what I’m running and haven’t had any complaints about it.

Rear bypass like Basikbiker said should go to 8’s on rebound. I ran 15/8 in mine the last few years and it was great. Only recently changing it because I lost a ton of weight out back and need to lighten up the compression a bit

 

One thing I want to point out is that lift doesn't help clear tires. If you're rubbing at all, it's best to cycle the suspension and do the appropriate clearancing.

 

Get out of here with that logic. If I want to clear my 37’s I clearly need to lift it 8”

 

Is that compression okay as well? The rear is by far the worst.

For the length of spring I was only thinking that since it’s a lighter coil I might need a longer spring. After looking though I can only get a much longer spring which won’t work anyway.

 

Rear is a bypass yes.King 2.5, 16” travel, three tube piggy back.

Maybe I’ll just drop to a 650 and see how it does. I’m a little nervous to go all the way to a 600. Although I’ve never messed with swapping springs on trucks so I’m not sure how much of a difference 50/100 will make.

 

I sent them an email to see if they can tell me what they used so I don’t have to pull it apart first.

 

Right. But say if I went with a 600# spring my truck dropped by two inches now not only do I have to do even more cutting but I’m sitting way lower in the shock stroke.

Right now it’s a decent ride height and bump stops/clearance is good.

That was poor wording on my part in the original post.

 

With a lighter weight spring you may need to adjust preload, yes. I know @EatSleepTacos runs a 18x600 (Or 500?) spring -- it's longer than the 16"s that most people run, so the amount of preload thread is decreased. The only major concern is coil bind upon compression with high preload.

 

Everyone has a different threshold for what they deem acceptable for their build, but for me, it's for the tire to not touch anything throughout its entire range of motion and steering lock to lock. It requires cutting, but that's the name of the game for 35"+ tires. I could remove my coilovers entirely and drive around on my bumpstops and I still wouldn't rub anything, as I'm sure a lot of others in this thread could do.

I'm not trying to come across as elitist or anything, but just pointing out the reasoning behind the statement that lift doesn't help clear tires.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/firewall-tubing.625038/

 

I've got an 18"x500 spring and have a solid inch at full compression before I have to worry about block height. For crawling, I find it perfect. For going fast, it's likely too soft.

 

hmmm i need more pictures before i believe you

 

Well, I don't have any pictures that can prove what I'm saying so you'll just have to take my word on it. It's mostly because at the upper uniball limits, I still have 1-3/8" shaft remaining.

edit to clarify I meant full compression of my wheel in the wheel well, not full compression of the shock.

 

I was just being unhelpful and requesting more truk photos, although I assume I can peep the 'gram -- sorry if my tone didn't quite come across correctly!

 

OH. Man it can be hard to interpret text sometimes over a screen. Another one of my faves from my LT install shakedown.







Another video that I find to be pretty sexy.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYhmMTuJCKW/

 

It's honestly impressive how little body movement you get...I really should look at lightening the front of the truck.

 

Being a 3rd gen with additional weight, a 16x650lb spring would probably best suite you. That said, you can save the additional cost of buying new springs and just open the C/O up and spec out the valving. Others, @snowsk8air2, have had success with 700# springs on their LT kits and he has a truck that 99% of the others in this thread can't hang with. So you may be able to resolve your complaint without buying new springs.

Ride height is a balance of spring rate & preload. So yes, you'll have to make some adjustments to retain your current ride height if you drop in spring rate but that has nothing to do with clearance. If you have to perform more cutting to clear at a lower ride height you'll absolutely have to do more cutting to clear if you wheel your truck. That's not a variable I consider in this topic.

This ^

 

I'm thinking i'll try to find a local fab shop that will do that with my scrap sheet pieces. If not or if i ever need a lot i'll hit you up, thanks!

 

Okay. Here is the coil over valving. I won’t lie, I don’t know what this means so I’ll need help deciphering it.

12,12,F,full stack of 20's over 12's

 

Geezus… ya that’s a problem if you have bypasses also. My coilovers are valved at 10/10. Bypasses 18/12

 

Tubbing mine was next on the list. Everything on mine clears when on the bumps except maybe past 50% compression and steering. Unfortunately I moved to a new place built in the 60’s with a 1 car garage that is too narrow for my truck. So I’m stuck with only driveway stuff for now.

No worries on sounding elite. I didn’t take it that way and have had that discussion many times in the third gen section.