Long Travel BS Thread

This is a pretty good article about it.

https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/spring-preload-matters/

 

This is 18x600 springs, absolutely no pre load. Couldn't get it lower.
Not the best pic, but shows how high the front was sitting.

 

Versus 16x650 springs. Again, no preload. However ended up sitting perfect.

 

Front bumper, with winch and lights weighted 140lbs, then add about another 30 for the extra down bars we welded and the skid plate.

 

Truck used to work good. Fighting getting it well balanced again. Although with the local area closed most of the year I’m starting to think the terrain got way bigger and more gnarly than before I broke the truck earlier this year. Finally all back together with full weight and had a test drive yesterday.

Wish I had something inbetween the gnarly cinders and smooth forest roads to test on. Might need to make a trip to the dunes this year for some tuning.

Also gonna be out at KOH all week next year since my buddy is planning on racing 4400 in the rookie class.

And digging the dovetail. Think it’s gonna really help in the rocks.

 

Did you find yourself getting hung up a lot back there with the full width bed before?

 

More close calls than anything. Hence the scratches on the rear of the driver side. Departure angle and break over angle have been bigger issues when crawling. Break over angle is real hard to fix on a taco and departure angle wasn’t gonna be worth the effort to get a significant gain from. Raising the frame, no real rear bumper will hopefully help with that. The dovetail was an easy way to help keep bodywork away from the rocks at least a little bit

 

Dang. How much preload are you running now? Sounds like 600’s wouldn’t work for me either. Mine probably isn’t that much heavier than yours. 500’s seem so light.

Oh yeah that’s huge. Definitely won’t work for me. Mine is a couple hundred pounds heavier but I don’t think that would lower it enough.

 

How wide is your rear axle? Are the bedsides pointed in towards the back?

 

It’s a 2nd gen tundra rear axle. Forget the wms measurement but my wheels are 3.5”bs. It’s close to the front width at 90”. But yea I pointed the bedsides in quite a bit. They are 10” narrower than stock at the tail lights. Not too noticeable at the front of the rear tires but the taper takes a noticeable narrowing by the end of the bedsides

 

One more question for you on the rear compression what did you change to? My shocks are fully out both compression tubes. It still super rough.

What do most people do - drop one or more steps? I can choose from 0.012 and 0.010. I was almost going to drop way to 0.010 and then adjust the tubes from there. I’m not sure if 0.012 will make enough of a difference considering where it sits now.

 

I am currently down to 12’s on the compression. That said I lost like 350lbs of bed weight from where I was when things were pretty perfect at 15/8.

Lighter than that and really you are trying to fight spring rate and valving.

My next step honestly for the rear will either be lighter springs with more free arch in the rear, or switching to a 3.0x5tube ads bypass that just flows so much better than the prerunner series kings. Hoping to not have to cross that expensive crossroad

 

That was with the bumper and weight you listed above?

 

the rear end packing up will feel rough too...leaf springs are notorious for drooping out slow...its just a limit of the design. check for binding in your shackles as well.
when i had leaf springs i was running 15s on compression, free bleeds closed with tubes turned in some. but the rebound was 8's with a flutter stack and it was really smooth

 

I think I’ll try 12’s on mine. I want to try something on the rear because it’s painfully stiff unless it’s a really smooth roller which those I could probably get away with anything.

Initially I had an extra leaf added for a little more height, thought that was causing the stiffness so I took it out, no change really. Nothing is binding so the only thing I can think of is revalving the rears. Just wasn’t sure how much of a jump people make. I suppose I could try a flutter setup too.

 

My truck is weird I guess. I thought it could be packing but I’m not even using half the shock stroke. Unless I try jumping it or something. Pulled a leaf I added, no difference. I pulled the shocks and tried jumping on the bed and it seems to move nicely without binding.

Back when I initially set it up with just the main leaf it cycles up to the bump stop perfectly fine.

 

What tires are you running and what pressures? What kinda weight do you have in the back like: spare, bumper, avg gas level you keep?

 

it doesnt hve to use all the stroke to determine if its "packing" . how much shaft is not being used? few inches? like 3-4? if its only that much thats where the bumpzone is in a bypass setup typically....theres no tubes to bypass fluid around the piston on the shock at the bump end of the stroke.

and what do you have for bumpstops? air bumps? if theyre air....only have like 65 to 80 max psi in em.

12's are pretty dang soft is all im saying and is kinda wierd to see that light in a toyota.


like my yota lol....i run a flutter 15 compression, 10 rebound in the front coilover, 3.0 bypass with double stacked 20's on compression, 10 rebound

the rear is pretty heavy on the damping too, and its realllllllllllllllly really smooth.

completely different setup truck but still.

 

whats the tube layout on your bypasses? and the adjusters are dialed all the way out? correct?

 

Only thing in the back is the bed cage and. 35” spare. Bumper is a high clearance tube bumper so that has a little extra weight.

Tires. E rated (yes I know) which I run at 25ish psi on the street. I know this is going to make small bumps miserable but it shouldn’t affect big ones?

Yeah I have no idea. I’m talking I don’t even use half the shock stroke. I have air bumps but I never even touch them. Granted I haven’t jumped it or hit anything massively hard but I have hit stuff that should have at least gotten me past half way.

The bumps are set to fully compress and leave me with a little stroke left.

Both compression tubes are fully open. Rebound is fully closed but I’m trying max/min settings to see if anything changes.

Tube layout is three tubes that are all one side and the reservoirs is piggyback.