problem w/ sockets, or is it me?

I bought a set of 1/2" drive impact sockets from Harbor Freight to help w/ my Bilstein 5100 install this weekend. I mistakenly got the SAE (standard size) sockets as opposed to the metric. I also purchased an impact wrench.

I tried using the 13/16 socket to remove the lug nuts, but the very first lug nut got stuck in the socket. The socket set is made by Pittsburgh.

Also, I used the 11/16 socket for the castle nut on the UCA/spindle and I ended up rounding off the castle nut when I went to torque it down (i was using a torque wrench for this, not the impact wrench).

Do you think it's a problem with the sockets, or just the fact that I used standard instead of metric? I "thought" 11/16 was actually SMALLER than 19mm, so if anything, the standard should have been a bit tight on the castle nut so I didn't think it would round off like that.

I guess what I'm asking is, do you think the problems were more associated w/ the standard vs. metric....or with the fact that I used HF (Pittsburgh) socket set?

 

It that you didn't make sure that the socket fit tightly enough on the nut. You assumed that it would work. Also a person that is good with tools can feel when and if a nut is going to strip, weather the socket on a nut or bolt or even the threads. I am not trying to put you down. I have learned by doing the same as you and watching other do the same. The castle nut in cheap and easy to replace. I also have a set of HF 3/4" drive sockets. They worked great for when I replaced my CV boot.

And also remember that HF is not for quality, so be extra careful when using their tools. IMO I would not use their socket with and impact, because of the risk of the socket shattering.

The lug nut is 21mm, just fyi.

I hope I didn't sound like an ass, and good luck.

 

You need a set of metric sockets... Pittsburgh, Snap-on, whatever just metric.

 

Yup, never a good idea to use standard sockets on metric nuts and bolts and visa versa.

 

If they are strip, Irwin tools makes a good strip nut extractor. Or gator sockets

 

thanks. i don't take offense, S.B. I did try the sockets first w/ my fingers and they felt like a great fit w/ no play when wiggling back and forth.

and yeah, I'm going to get replacement castle nuts from the toyota dealership.

Just don't want to spend the money on new (cheap) sockets in metric sizes from HF if it's actually a problem w/ the sockets being true to size, rather than a standard vs metric problem.

 

I would invest in a tool set from sears, metric set, it's worth the money if you plan on working on your truck. Get the one with 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2.

 

I agree with "whatthephoo" invest in good brands of tools. Its cheaper in the long run. I have all craftsman sockets, except the extra large size ones. They are true to their size (craftsman) and have a lifetime warranty.

 

^^ and if anything breaks theres a Sears or Kmart around most big city. Actually Kmart don't usually warranty stuff for Craftsman, They will ask you to send it in.

 

OP: atleast you did use a hammer on the end of the bolt to take out your steering endlink and screw up the threads and try to put the nut on and completely F up the threads. Ya $80 later I had a new endlink.

 

I second Craftsman. Not the best but not the worst. I also keep a set of off brand Harbor Freight stuff in my truck and as loaners. I don't loan my good tools because they don't always seem to find their way back to my toolbox.

 

SB, that was you? I remember reading that but didn't remember it was coming from you. Sorry that happened to you, but I appreciate you owning up to it in the how-to thread because I made SURE not to mess w/ the steering linkage, etc. I went the swaybar, UCA route...never even touched a tie rod.

Got a couple new castle nuts on order at the dealership...i think they guy said they're 1.47 a piece, so as long as I can get the old ones off, i won't be hurting too bad!

 

do you remember the size of the axle nut 35/36 mm????

 

I don't remember ever posting anything in that thread,but I could of. Using a Pitman Arm puller form an auto parts store works great and much safer. this works for the sterring rod end link and for the uca bolt in the spindal.

I want to say 35mm for the front axle nut. Mine was pretty lose. I used a breaker bar (I Believe it is 24" long) and pushed down with 1 hand and it was loose. Its supposed to be torqued to 175 ftlbs. I'm not worried that it was loose because there is a cotter pin, so it can not come off/completely loose. I still need to make a write up of the boot replacement. Anyone shoot me a PM if you need a write up or pointers (it will give me the motivation I need to start and finish it, it will have many pics and lots of details).

Ok, end of my little thread jack.

 

I have bought some decent impact sockets, Gray (or Grey not sure) from tool topia, www.tooltopia.com.

Impact sockets have to fit very snugly...and not abuse HF, but I wouldn't waste the money on HF impact sockets, I seem to wear out even the high quality ones...

Howard

 

FAIL!

 

^^^ thanks... very helpful and constructive post?

 

Is that from your Facebook , MOT?

 

Not got that from your Mom, pic of you at a young age lol