Long Travel BS Thread

Bit confusing. I was gonna say it sounds like you need more weight in the back and to sort out the front to balance the truck a bit more and maybe get the bypass in the right spot like basik was getting at. But that setup should work okay with the compression stack you have now and some tube turning(like everyone said lighter rebound is still usually a sure bet with leafs on these trucks). Maybe the valving isn't what it's supposed to be or something in the shock is binding

 

open the rebound all the way and go to 8's on the rebound....i would do that before anything else

rear end is 100% having a packing issue...for sure without a doubt that is part of the problem.

and revalvalving your front coilover to like 10/10's should help alot

 

I don’t think the shocks are binding because when I cycled it when I did the initial setup everything seemed to be fine.

When I order the rebound shims I’ll going to measure what’s in there now. Maybe they are something different.

Got it. I’ll order up the stuff for the coil over and 8’s for the rear. Leave everything else alone.

The rebound adjustment is easy. I’ll try that tomorrow and update. The shim stuff I’ll post again once that’s all swapped over too.

Thanks everyone for the help so far.

 

Yeah

They are light and they’re probably under more preload than is “acceptable” per the article Travis shared yesterday but for rock crawling they seem to work well.

 

Are adjustable clickers on shocks worth it if you buy a pre-tuned setup like from Accutune?

 

Well they are a complete waste of money on front coilovers if you are running a bypass. And also worthless if you are running a rear bypass. Of course this is just my opinion since you valve it close and fine tune with the bypass tubes. Remember bypass tubes pull the hot chicks!!

 

Once you get the valving dialed in not really. The only time I ever touched mine were when I was hitting a jump. Otherwise I left them alone

 

It's like a $500 savings front or rear to just not have them. I'm living vicariously through yall, and building on a tighter budget. I also live in the rust belt with salty winters so Factory Race Series Fox shocks seem to be the only ones with stainless steel piston rods. Everyone else uses steel with a coating or NitroSteel. Either that or I'm no good at searching.

 

I bought my lt coil overs from accutune and ran adjusters, without bypasses I think they are worth it but I will agree if your running bypasses they won’t do anything comparable to the adjustment you get from the bypass. I like the adjustment because it helps you to determine if your tune is a little light, crank up the knob and if it makes compression better than you should up your shim stacks. Helped me determine I needed to have mine revalved.

 

Lots a variables to consider. Whos adjusters are you talking about? King have a single knob that is referred to as more of a "mid-speed" adjustment where Fox has dual adjusters (DSC) which give you a much better range of adjustability. What type of wheeling are you looking to do? If you're a dedicated desert runner then you likely won't see a benefit but if you do a little bit of everything I find them to be worth it. I use mine to adjust for terrain and driving style, which you can't 100% nail from valving on the main piston as it's often dynamic.

Even with a bypass they have a benefit. You loose a LOT of low speed control with a bypass shock. If you have an adjuster on the C/O you can use them to gain low speed control where necessary. Not a big deal for a dedicated desert truck but again for the "catch all" build they have benefits. I also find them to be beneficial in the rear to compensate for weight variances. A truck loaded up is much different than a truck that is not. Adjusters allow you to make changes depending on load.

 

Thanks for those pics. That’s exactly what I needed. I’m pretty sure 500 will be too light for mine. More skids and third gen. 600 would do it I think.

 

Yeah I was looking at the Fox Factory Series with the DSC. They were ~$500 more per set than without. But I think I've decided to go with Fox and this was my last hang up. I did notice there's high speed and low speed adjustment, I just didn't know if it was something I'd actually get any use out of. I'm going for a catch-all build for the most part. I wanna be able to hop the truck but I'll mostly be doing low speed crawling and highway driving.

 

Probably not worth it, but I had my rear valved for normal weight, and then crank them a little firmer time to time when the bed is loaded for bigger trips

I have mine tuned for a normal single day wheeling/dune trip weight, but the adjusters are nice when I squat the truck down on long trips with a ton of junk or towing, so maybe twice a year lol. Not worth the money if you tune right for the average weight of your truck

 

Like the others have said, they're nice for a truck that kind of does everything and not one thing exclusively.
When I originally got my CO's, my truck was a lot lighter than it is now. When it got heavier, I cranked down on the adjusters a bit to compensate so it wouldn't blow through the travel as easily.
As for valving, you can valve on the lighter side for say street driving or something and then have the adjusters to crank down for different offroad conditions which is nice. That way you're not trying to valve for something middle of the road for all of those situations.

I wish I had adjusters in the rear for heavier loads for longer trips and when I have my topper on vs off.

 

$500 is cheaper than trying to convert them later. I think the answer to that is based off your knowledge of the feature. A lot of people purchase adjusters and don't actively adjust them on the regular. I've talked to people who've made an adjustment once and never touched them again. I have a feeling it's mostly due to the lack of knowledge and understanding of the equipment but can't say for sure.

For myself, I use them quite often. I adjust mine to vary for weight (mostly in the rear) or driving terrain/style. If I'm cruising on a fire road I like a soft and comfortable ride with adjusters open and I'll make a turns to adjust if I decide to bomb down that same fire road.

 

Or close the low speed for street driving (Fox DSC) when the sway bar has been removed.

 

That’s How I run my fox’s on the street.
1 click out from stiff on low speed for the lack of sway bar and 1 click in from open on the high speed for ‘comfort’

 

Also applicable if it’s that big of a concern for you.

 

Can anyone with a solo xlt kit on a 2nd gen tell me what the width is at ride height? Wheel mount to wheel mount.

 

Yeah I'm leaning towards if I did get them, probably only on the rear.