Wind and road noise reduction solution by 15db or so

I got pipe insulation in the plumbing section - it was really tight for some reason as I went over the fuel tank and had to get really long pliers to pull it along the rest of the way. I’d start on the passenger side


Ask your questions, it’s what the forums for!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ion-by-15db-or-so.740602/page-9#post-27533338

Note, I fed a piece of coax cable through it so that I could make sure the noddle was straight and this assisted with turning down the ends for rain runoff.

 

I believe it may be easier or harder depending on your trucks body type. I think DCLB is easiest since less things are in the way, like the gas tank and muffler. Not sure how it is on a ACLB though.

My "pool noodle" is a pipe insulator with a precut slit, which makes it easier to squeeze through the gap. I just lined it up and pushed it in.

 

The OP's post from a while back mentions some pool noodles are too big in diameter to fit. I used some calipers to measure the bed/cab gap and trimmed accordingly. I also did it in two pieces, one for each side, then installed and butted them together. I am concerned about trapped water and rust, so I check any time I'm doing a maintenance interval.

It may be placebo, but I'd swear it helps with road noise.

 

You are correct, there are different size pool noodles. Need to use the small one which is around 3-4" wide.
I can confirm, not placebo. I have a lab that insists on sticking his head out the back window of my ACLB. All I hear now is wind noise coming over the top of the cab instead of road noise generated by the tires.

 

For pool noodle sizes, I believe most go for the 3/4" x 6ft pipe insulator from Home Depot. But a 1/2" pipe insulator will fit, as that is the one I installed.

I'm not too worried about water building up. I pushed mine a little above the pinch weld lip so water doesn't pool up. The body panel's shape also allows a gap every inch or so for water to flow through.

 

This is what I remember too. At least one of the surfaces the noodle is wedged between is corrugated.
Edit: Both sides are absolutely corrugated and the bed is plastic

 

For my rust concern. I'm thinking more about in between the noodle and the cab where there's constant contact w/the outward humps of the cab corrugation. Water being trapped/'sandwiched' there which could then damage the paint.

It's a Taco, so I'm paranoid about everything rusting....

 

That’s fair. I’ll have to think about it. I was considering taking the noodle out to see a back to back comparison one of these days

 

I’m going to use my 360 wand and Woolwax that area really well before I put the noodle in. That should protect the area for a really long time.

 

Bad idea in New England salt belt, elsewhere consider the risk, sand, whatever caught up there grinding away.

 

I dunno. Seems like the opinions are mixed on this. Most of my noise comes from the tires.

 

just added mine and it works great... like wow great. way quieter whether or not I keep it in during the winter months is still undecided.

 

I’m thinking I might take mine off for this winter and just put it back on in spring

 

Exactly what i was thinking. its really worth doing though. im curious how much of of a difference it actually makes.

 

I'm thinking you guys are changing the cab backwall's resonance characteristic, or "transfer function" in the low frequency range of your hearing. For those worried about road salt, sand, debris, I wonder if dynamat or sound deadening material applied behind the seats would yield comparable, probably superior results. Even better if as someone said, applied under the carpeting. Imagine if in the doors and roof too. https://youtu.be/ufhHtjlM09E

 

I’m sure it would be superior. And more than 5 minutes/$3 though

 

True, true. It is a truck and to each his/her own. Personally? When I get the truck, I'm likely to change the dash tweeters, but, if I also decide to change the speakers in the door, I think I will add some dampening in the doors. I think the premium infotainment units are coupled with a little additional dampening behind the door panels from the factory based on some videos I've seen - not sure. However, dampening in the door effectiveness for listening - it seems it is also a decent source of resonance and sound coupling from the tires into the cab. If a noodle or pipe insulation is an inexpensive improvement - I might do it. However, 36ft^2 of sound deadening might be $60-70. It's not cheap and reasonable for behind the seats.

I have no intention of buying into a lot of other mods (some spend considerable money on bull bars, bumpers, lifts, tires, LED headlights, overland camping platforms, etc, etc).

As it will be a daily driver, errand and occasional hauler truck, I won't be spending money in those very expensive areas. I'm planning the tweeters, a soft-cover tonneau cover, some black-out for badging, and of all things, footwell lighting. Good think my wife doesn't read this forum.

 

Dampening the doors is a much bigger improvement than a little strip of foam or rubber trim, or a pool noodle. I've done both. The extra seal around the doors didn't do much at all, but dampening the doors was huge. The biggest improvement was probably dampening the back wall area. I've also done my roof, so the combination of it all makes for one really quiet cab.

 

I installed full 3 layer sound deadening on the rear wall/floor/ceiling/doors, which significantly lower outside noises and vibrations.


However, the pool noodle honestly still makes a noticable difference in audible road/exhaust noise. Worthwhile $2 mod.