Garage Shop: Tools

Yeah those old engines were torque monsters!
This is one of the cooler steam engine videos I've seen...
https://youtu.be/05zKt5fLPSs

 

110 Case... that thing is an absolute MONSTER. I love it, they're so confident of a full pull that not only are are they wasting steam with the whistle, they throw in a spark show too! We have an 1905 Case 45; used it to pull a couple drunk cowboys & their pick-up out of the ditch a bunch of years back... They were pretty well amazed that this hundred year old, clanking noisy thing, moving at 2 1/2 mph even existed, and said there was NO way it would work... chained up to the truck (nose down in a 15' drainage ditch), got a good fire going, and put the cut-off into the far notch and opened up the throttle... up she came (There may, or may not have been a souvenir drive shaft displayed on the cab roof of the case for a couple of years... ).

 

Oh that is AWESOME!!!!

 

Of course, no problem!

Just make sure to wear gloves when you spray and wipe everything down. I used WD40 to remove all the factory cosmoline; manual states not to use acetone.

Cleaner you get it and all the crud off, the smoother everything goes together.

And if your chuck arrives before your press, you'll see where in the install step you install it. It's literally just placing your wood to the bottom and tapping it upward. Held on by friction via a tapered shaft.

 

Situation 1.

Want to gate this opening. It's about 8 feet wide. I'm open to ideas. Something nice. Without going broke. 4-5-6 feet high.

 

Problem 1.

Brick molding made of cheap white wood rotted after 8 years. It used to be wet all winter. I cut back to good wood and sprayed daily with 99% alcohol. It is clean and dry now AND covered.

How should I fill the gap?? No rush, critters can't pass. Ideas?

 

I would just do something out of cedar (although these days, that may constitute going broke...), two sections so that the swing space and hinge weight are less.

 

Makes sense, but how would you anchor the gate posts?

 

Is that structure sitting right on grade????? I would consider using composite "lumber" (ie, "plastic lumber") as the facing and make sure that it's WELL sealed to ensure that moisture on the grade can't penetrate.

 

You could either put a hinge plate directly on to the house, or use a bracket and concrete fasteners for the base and brace the the top to the house. If you're really ambitious, cur the concrete, sink a piece of Sono tube and set in a piece of 'C' channel of the right height and then re-finish the concrete (that would be my preferred method.

 

What is the intent of the gate?

 

Yes and no. It's on a huge slab well above grade that slopes away from that corner. The that corner in the breezeway is and it was hardly covered. So stupid. The breezeway are concrete filled up to the slab, if you follow.

Plastic = good idea

 

Just to keep dogs on inside. Some visual blockage as well.

 

Suddenly I realized I posted this in the wrong thread. Hahaha crap.

 

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tarter-galvanized-mesh-gate-8-ft

Core drill your slab and drive down 4" galvanized pipe, add gate. You can mount add lumber for visual blockage. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tarter-galvanized-mesh-gate-8-ft

 

Still, really bad building practice; that should be resting on a raised, impermeable layer of some sort. Might be worth talking to a pro and looking at whether it would be feasible/worthwhile to pull off that lowest level of trim and encapsulate things in epoxy (I'm thinking probably not, but...)

 

Pretty much how all garage.shops are built. ?????

 

Added another tool, forgot I ordered it until I saw it at my doorstep coming home from work today

EVO185HD saw

It's their small 7 1/4" cold cut saw.

I hate abrasive saws, and since I expect to buy a horizontal bandsaw, I wanted a small cut-off saw as well hence the purchase.

Unfortunately, I didn't fully plan this purchase so it'll sit on my miniature catch-all table until I make a stand for it.



Unboxing, here's what you get.

Standard metal-cutting wheel; they offer specific blades for aluminum, stainless steel, and thin metal if you require to cut said items.

Even get some PPE as well as some allen wrenches.



So, everything I've read and heard about this thing is all positive with the exception of some plateforms not being fully flat.

Fortunately, mine is flat.



Installing the blade is a cinch, just need to remove 4 screws and swing the guard out. Otherwise, that's it.

I'll report back once I've run some steel through it.

 

FWIW I love mine. I still don't get perfectly square cuts sometimes but it's good enough for fabrication. Only downside is it's loud af, and if you aren't careful you can burn the blade up easy.

 

Do you have the big one or the small one?

I was really putting off getting one due to the noise, but at least it'll be cleaner than an abrasive saw (even if all the chunks are just larger).

I'll keep that in mind regarding the blade, thanks!