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CV axle replacement question

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by tanstaafl26, Sep 2, 2022.

  1. Sep 2, 2022 at 8:41 AM
    #1
    tanstaafl26

    tanstaafl26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good Morning

    I have an '04, 294k, original add cv axle with a leaking boot. Probably gave up it's ghost on the last Baja trip. I've changed out axles before, but this time the axle I bought isn't quite the same as the Toyota version. It's an Autozone Duralast axle. The difference is the front diff end's casing does not have the notch that is used to lever out and tap in during reinstallation. Everything else is the same.

    My question is this: taking care to not booger up the threads, may I hit the wheel end's shaft with a rubber mallet/block of wood to get the C-clip to seat into the diff? I didn't see anywhere else to apply force.

    btw, the old axle in the picture is another axle that I have in my garage, I've not yet removed the one I need to replace.

    Thanks all.

    IMG_6710.jpg
     
  2. Sep 2, 2022 at 8:48 AM
    #2
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Well-Known Member Vendor

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    4 run, 2 don't
    Just return it; use OEM/remans or simply reboot your cv axle.
     
    970btu and Smokestacks like this.
  3. Sep 2, 2022 at 8:51 AM
    #3
    YotaGangYotaGang

    YotaGangYotaGang PreRunners are wannabe 4x4’s

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    Keep the oem one and rebuild them. Straighten it out and hit with rubber mallet,
     
    tanstaafl26[OP] likes this.
  4. Sep 2, 2022 at 8:53 AM
    #4
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    mallet or a brass punch would also work well
     
  5. Sep 2, 2022 at 8:57 AM
    #5
    Buttskevin21

    Buttskevin21 Well-Known Member

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    Stock-ish
    No need for a hammer, just (not immaturely) jerk it in and out using the travel of the cv as the hammer. Non-oem cvs are smaller and have less angle, so I'd recommend Oem shafts like said above. I believe Toyota even sells Reman cv's for a very fair price.
     
    tanstaafl26[OP] likes this.
  6. Sep 2, 2022 at 8:57 AM
    #6
    TACORIDER

    TACORIDER Just another statistic

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    It works but sounds stupid, use the jerk off method or similar to using the other end like a slide hammer jerking it back and forth. I never had luck hitting the other end.
     
  7. Sep 2, 2022 at 9:00 AM
    #7
    mic_sierra

    mic_sierra Toshiba HDDVD is the future

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    tanstaafl26[OP] likes this.
  8. Sep 2, 2022 at 9:02 AM
    #8
    TACORIDER

    TACORIDER Just another statistic

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    Haha ya ive written some Chilton manuals
     
  9. Sep 2, 2022 at 10:30 AM
    #9
    tanstaafl26

    tanstaafl26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice everyone. I kept my oem's to rebuild, but I always seem to run out of time. Hence the replacement option. Also, once it's apart, I'd not be able to tell if it's rebuildable and can't afford to have the truck non-drivable if I went that route and it wasn't.

    The toyota parts sites that I found did not have any available for less than $500. I'd rather buy 3 and get 100k miles out of each like the aftermarket one on the passenger side.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2022
  10. Sep 2, 2022 at 10:32 AM
    #10
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    Yeah those Duralast axles are a pain in the ass without those notches in the housing to leverage a pry bar against.

    For popping them out, I was eventually able to do it by getting the pry bar between the axle and the diff tube. But be careful not to mangle the metal around the edge of your axle tube. It will eventually pop out, keep rotating it to find the sweet spot.

    To get the axle in, I found the best way for any axle is to thread the axle nut onto the end and then use a big hammer to tap the axle in. Make sure the axle nut is on the end so you don't mangle the threads on the axle. Don't go crazy but after a few good taps it will slide right in.
     
    tanstaafl26[OP] likes this.
  11. Sep 2, 2022 at 10:48 AM
    #11
    Wulf

    Wulf no brain just damage

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    If prybars aren't possible for removal this style of CV removal tool is super helpful. There is a loop that goes around the base of the CV and then you use a 2+lb hammer in the other loop to bust it free. Maybe you could DIY if you have rope on hand?

    https://www.gzila.com/products/cv-removal-tool
     
  12. Sep 2, 2022 at 11:43 AM
    #12
    Andy01DblCabTacoma

    Andy01DblCabTacoma Well-Known Member

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    That's pretty nice. I haven't seen that before. Using dyneema is overkill when any line would do, but :notsure: I guess ya gotta market something.
     
    Wulf[QUOTED] and tanstaafl26[OP] like this.
  13. Sep 4, 2022 at 9:17 AM
    #13
    tanstaafl26

    tanstaafl26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Changed it out yesterday. Reminder, mine is an 04 TRD trim with the ADD hubs. Couple
    of notes regarding some of the how to videos.
    I didn’t have to remove my skid plate, which is good. I have a front hitch that limits access to the bolts. I was able to lever off of the skid plate. One of the vids labeled “how to change 01-04 add tacoma” said lower bolts and axle nut were 12/36, mine were 14/35. I did have to remove the upper sway bar end link to get the axle out. Since I went against forum advice and kept the Duralast axle that doesn’t have the diff end notches, I was able to gently tap the end of the axle to set the axle’s clip into the diff. The most difficult thing was figuring out the combo of how to move the spindle and ball joint to get the bolts to line up. This forum rocks. Thanks for the help. Makes owning an older truck economically viable.

    edit: I was unsuccessful with the jerk off method. Need more practice.

    AB963029-1A1C-4C50-BF0C-D37AADC60790.jpg

    86C68597-44CE-4A0C-A51D-3263E2285099.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2022
  14. Sep 4, 2022 at 9:40 AM
    #14
    TACORIDER

    TACORIDER Just another statistic

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    Andy01DblCabTacoma likes this.

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