Home Improvement Today?

What should I do here?

 

Is that under your new breezeway and previously unprotected/open to rain and snow?
Slab on grade? and if so is there a treated bottom plate under those studs?

 

Bottom plates up higher. You can see the stem wall to the left and right of the king and trimmer. It's a typical opening in the concrete for an entry door. Ideally there's always at least an inch between the threshold and the porch/landing. That allows water to run away before it works back into the framing. That didn't happen here.

@Pablo8 How deep is that rot? Take an ice pick and poke it. If you penetrate more then 1/4" it's time to replace the studs. If you end up replacing them it would be advisable to also move the header up an inch then pour another inch of concrete at the bottom of the opening to stop that water intrusion in the future.

 

Yes now covered and dry.
Yes studs and plate treated.
The only rot was the moulding. I cut it away to good wood then sprayed it with 99% Isopropyl alcohol for weeks and fan dried. Picture looks crappy but wood it solid.
I just need filler ideas. Thanks

 

Can you just pull the casement molding and put on new stuff? I mean… is it that simple?

 

Kinda sorta.

Would need exact match to fit butted siding. I have not looked.

 

Is the king stud / cripple running to bottom of sill plate height or is your exterior concrete 1 1/2" above bottom of wall framing at that door location ?

 

Stud runs to sill plate.

 

so your outside concrete elevation is higher than the underside of the wall framing directly to either side of the door correct ?

 

No. Wall framing sits on concrete foundation wall

 

Got my outlets installed this week. They were all really close to the ground and back behind where the cabinets were going to to, so I mounted them about 2” above where the finished desk will be. Had to cut an access hole to run one of the wires because I couldn’t run the wire through the stud easily . I just did a quick patch and texture. I don’t care about painting it as it’ll be behind the cabinets full of drawers.







Then I worked on the start of my cabinet install. Painted the toe kicks and shimmed them out so they’re nice and level. The theory is you can level the lightweight toe kicks and then just place the carcass on top of them and it’ll be nice and level. You don’t have to wrestle the carcass full of hardware and whatnot.


I just put the shims in there snuggly and sent some cabinet mounting screws into the studs through the toe kicks. Then I put glue on the shims and got them tightly under the toe kick when the screws were in. You can kind of stitch-weld the back side of the shims with wood glue to keep them tightly in there. Come back the next day and cut off the shims with a multi tool — use a drywall knife to protect the paint on the toe kick.


Just waiting on the glue for the left cabinet to dry now.


I’ll cut those shims off tomorrow. Next step is to scribe a filler strip for both cabinets, mount them to the face frames, paint, and mount the carcasses. Then it’s on to trimming-out the office. Getting there!

 

K, well pic must be deceiving then

cut the casing on each side at same height as top of bottom rail on your door , use Vycor Deck Protector to seal the exposed framing to concrete connection , cover it up with a 5/4 PVC plinth block

 

awesome

I always use a separate ladder kick and case set up for all my cabinets , way easier install plus kicks can go in before finished floors while we are waiting on cabinet boxes

a trick I use is to glue / screw plywood blocks to the inside of the rough kick box so they transfer and cabinet weight to the floor , usually in kitchens where cabinets will have heavy loads in them

 

Got a favorite way to attach a fill strip to a face frame? I was going to scribe it and then mount it with a tiny trim head screw from inside of the frame. But I guess there’s better ways.

 

I don't usually deal with face frame cabinets so I'm no help

 

Predrill the face frame and use a trim head screw like you mentioned. I usually try to hide it behind a door hinge or drawer slide.

 

I do now see what you are writing. The portion below the ends on the PT stud is concrete, in fact it is the shop slab. It's just dirty from 8 years of wet and wood rotting next to it. There are still some dead bugs and crap in there, I need to vacuum it well and hit it with alcohol some more. Then when well dry, I will hit it with copper wood preservative and allow to set and dry for a few weeks.

I will then seal it, and use the 5/4 PVC plinth block. <=GREAT IDEA! Thanks

 

No pics, but started replacing two fence panels in front of the house... Had two trees taken out last year due to them breaking up during wind storms... Ironically it wasn't the limbs and wind that took them out, it was the tree feller

 

So, I see a code violation on the electrical. Access is blocked to the junction box behind the cabinet. If it were my house, I'd just roll with it. It's not dangerous and the chance of it being caught in any future home inspections is pretty close to zero. It's not like any inspector is going to empty every cabinet looking for partially blocked junction boxes. Just don't post that picture on any electrical forums. You think grammar nazis are bad, they got nothing on electrical code violation nazis.

 

Could always just notch out the back of the cabinet around it.

Ive gotta relocate some for my kitchen remodel, opted to remove a few and just terminate the wires in J-boxes up in the attic. Having 10 outlets and the microwave on one circuit was a little sketchy.