Clarifications on parts needed for 12v to bed from main battery?

I want to run hot 12v wire to my bed, currently from my main battery to power fridge, diesel heater, led lights and usb charging. Main battery capacity issues aside (looking at a 135ahr deep cycle lithium starter battery) Wondered if anyone can confirm if the following parts are correct for the install?

- fuse block installed in engine bay
- wire connecting main battery to fuse block. 10 gauge?
- 10 gauge red and black from fuse block to bed
- loom and zip ties for wire protection
- blue sea power outlets for install in bed.

Am I missing anything or is it as simple as this?
Do I need an additional fuse block in the bed for specific items?
Is there something I can add to this set up to kill power in the bed?

There are a ton of threads on this but I’m getting a bit confused with all the different set ups.

 

Your should add a switch so that you can limit voltage to only the fuse block when not in use. The switch should be rated for whatever worst case draw will be + 10% or more... or switch the circuit with a relay that's controlled by a switch if you plan to pull more than 10A or so.

Wire gauge depends on load. There are charts for 12v wire size based on load. You will need to know the length of the run to find the necessary gauge.

 

Lithium batteries aren't usually recommended under the hood due to the heat.

 

Like above, if you think you need 10 awg wire then you should plan on having a master switch or relay. Lots of articles on how to add a relay. Keep switch or relay in engine compartment, you don't want to run 10 awg into the cab. Smart move is to route all ground wire back to battery or to one of the empty threaded holes near the battery so you are not chasing ground faults in future.

As to what you need depends on how professional you want final results to look. Wiring can turn into a hobby in itself. At minimum, you may want to get:
- crimp type ring terminals for connecting to battery bolt and fuse block
- in-line fuse if you're not planning to add other circuits, but fuse block is good as you'll soon will want to add lights or other circuits
- adhesive lined shrink tubing, necessary to seal end of braided loom to keep from unraveling. Multiple other uses.
- solder splices, the kind where there is a dab of solder inside shrink tubing, keeps moisture out so better and neater looking than a crimp splice. (for splicing the in-line fuse into circuit)
- Quality crimp tool

Optional:
Heat gun for shrink wrap-
Zip ties in color other than black or white. If you ever need to redo something, it is easy to find your previous work when zip ties are distinctive color.
Friend to help who has most of this, otherwise gets expensive as Amazon will sell you kits of 100 pieces when you only need 3 or 5.

 

All this and wire loom. Makes it look factory.

 

I am by no means in an expert on wiring but I’ve wired up quite a few fuse blocks before. Your best bet is to make a schematic and post it on here. You mentioned your fuse block will be in the engine bay, I would put the fuse block in the truck bed inside of the cubby. You can run your wire from the battery, down along the frame, and then drill a hole into the bottom of the cubby. Place a cable gland into the hole you drilled and run your wire through it, to a relay and then your fuse block. Once you’ve done that, you can install your Blue Sea power outlets. I’d also suggest you use Anderson SB50 connectors for your diesel heater and your fridge. They are much more secure than the standard 12v socket. One last thought, use a wire size calculator to make sure that a 10AWG wire is the proper size. https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html