MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Thanks!

 

The OE disk appears to be stainless steel.

No. The disk does not deflect. There is not enough hydraulic vacuum to do that. It is the square seal compressing slightly.

 

You're welcome!

 

Can anyone tell me if the disk in the accumulator on the 2nd gens is the same size? I think this will work for them but I don't have one to test it on. I know the accumulator itself is slightly different, just not sure if the sizing is any different

 

Maybe I’m missing something; but wouldn’t this new brass piece end up with the same result as the stock accumulator? I’m not seeing how the fluid is traveling with less dampening in this design. I can understand how the dremel version works because it’s physically linking the holes together to bypass the dampening area.

 

I cannot tell that from a machinist perspective, but I would bet that it is. If you scroll back just a bit, there was a 2nd Gen or two that recently did the ADM.

 

I will need to get exact measurements from someone since being off by a few thou can mean it won't seal / will crush the o-ring / not fit.

 

With @Firn 's design, the removal of both the spacer ring and disk gives room to machine a cavity in the new brass disk to not create negative pressure that would reduce engagement flow.

 

Looks like the disc leaves space so that in effect the holes are linked because of the disc shaped space around them. That point keeps it from pushing all the way in.

Poor explanation but it's late. Sue me

 

I completely agree. My bets are never good ones.

 

Makes sense. Thanks. I forgot the old disc is completely flat and notice now that his isn’t. I’m good with my dremel route, but cool to see an alternative either way.

 

@NomadicCypress .

Ping Mr @Firn . This is the Easy Button.

 

Can't beat free!

 

That sounds like something that This Old Tony would say.


BTW, are you just disembodied hands?

 

I WISH! TOT is my hero!

 

His vids are great and have taught me so much.

 

Hey, Folks.

I updated the 1st Post with @Firn 's genius, new take on our old problem.


2nd Gen Folks.

If someone could please send @Firn a caliper measurement of the diameter and thickness of the inner disk of your accumulators just for confirmation? Thanks!

 

The accumulator part #s are distinctly different between the two gens.

Measurements supported

 

I have to disagree - the disk absolutely deflects. It dampens the flow of the fluid causing a slight delay. There are no other moving parts in the accumulator. A clutch line can have 1500 psi in it which is more than enough to deflect the steel. There is no vacuum in hydraulics, only pressure. I base this on things I learned from my dad, who was a master mechanic and taught others hydraulics for a major company and also looking at old Toyota forums where in the early 2000's people were experiencing accumulator leaks. Opening them up they found the disks were broken. This is the way the accumulator works:

The top picture shows the accumlator at rest. The second one is when the pedal is pushed in.

The last picture was my solution which I was going to try and is similar to Firn, who replaced the disk and spring with his machined brass disk. I would suggest leaving the disk and spring in and putting in a flat disk that is the same thickness as the spring. This would prevent any deflection and provide the same as the delete and also take less material and machining. Whatya think Firn?

As for the dremel mod, the only reason I can think why that works is because hydraulic fluid - although theoretically non-compressible, actually is slightly compressible so there may be some benefit. I would think the gains from either doing the straight line mod or the disk method would be better than the dremel mod. Has anyone tried driving with the straight-line mod and the dremel mod back to back?

Of course I might be full of it!