Is a Torque wrench absolutely necessary?

Pros
The setting type are better in the way that they click when you reach the torque setting and don't need to be looking at a dial.
The needle type are better in the way that they're easier to calibrate, just bend the needle until you get 0 and you're set, also can be used as a breaker bar if needed, not recommended but in an emergency......

Cons
The setting type can loose calibration and require more care and maintenance.
The needle type is difficult to read in some instances where the bolt or nut is in an awkward position, also while applying hi torque it's difficult to maintain the torque and look at the needle at the same time, requiring an extra pair of eyes to check the needle.

 

I don't tihnk mine goes to 0...but it gets wound all the way back out. And I need to put it in my bench vice to cal it again.

 

I, too, use a torque wrench on most of my projects, but a torque wrench isn't as accurate as you'd think.

I found this while doing some torque research a few months ago.

http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Screws/Preloading.html

Check the bottom page of that link and it gives you this table:

By that table, torquing by 'feel' is only 10% off torquing with a wrench.
However, I'll still use my torque wrench. My 'feel' sucks.

 

Never used a TW for personal use ever (spark plugs, wheels, drainplugs, boat outdrives, anything in about 14 yrs and numerous vehicles /couple boats and not one problem. A saying I learned years ago is "tight is tight." I take this to mean don't overtighten nor undertighten- I side with the guys on here who say they have a "feel" for it. Haven't been proved wrong yet.

However, if you don't feel confident about it, then get a TW.

 

YES buy one especially when it time to change your plus this well come in handy later.
http://www.customtacos.com/tech/file...suspension.pdf

 

Just use German torque spec : gooten tite!

Really though torque wrench is very necessary.

 

thanks for the info.

 

I bought a torque wrench when I started breaking off all the bolts I tightened.

Its the best, but myself and grease monkeys everywhere don't use them all the time. I've worked at dealerships and never seen one outside the engine shop.

 

There's a difference in knowing when to use a torque wrench and when you don't need one.

Critical repairs - such as water pumps, spark plugs, valve covers etc....are better served using a torque wrench.

Non Critical repairs - such as installing a horn, installing seats, changing an alternator, changing a starter, etc. aren't as critical and don't necessarily need a torque wrench.

 

Um yea... we've thrown torque wrenches away at work that are out of cal by 0.3%...

Also, anyone that thinks their hand is calibrated right... there might be someone out there but I've yet to meet this person. If nothing else, in a case where you are torquing multiple bolts on the same part (say in a star pattern) the torque wrench insures each bolt is torqued the same (within x% at least). I've seen plenty of people way over tighten stuff thinking their "calibrated."

So what's the downside? In this application over-torquing could make it near impossible to get the plug back out after its' been subjected to high heat (which it will be). You can possibly damage the threads, or snap the plug in the head. In which case your job at the least became a MUCH longer job with additional machining costs. Will it happen? Probably not. Is it worth the hassle of dropping $15 at Harbor Freight to potentially save a few hundred in repairs? Hell yes. Plus that wrench will be there for any other project that calls for a torque spec.

Side note: even if something isn't labeled to have a torque spec in a procedure... everything has 'standard' specs. For example, when using a bolt in aluminum... the spec is 7-10 in/lb. More than that and you risk damaging threads.


Also a side protip... I've found you're a lot less likely to cross-thread if you do a few counter-clockwise rotations (yes unscrewing) before actually going clockwise to help align it. At least, it works for me.

 

You need to understand what the purpose of torquing a bolt is. For simple stuff like spark plugs, you can certainly get away without using a torque wrench if you've got enough experience. Something like wheels where all 6 bolts should be applying the same pressure on the wheel so one of them doesn't get lose and back off or break, a torque wrench is by far the best (and only) way to be sure you've done it correctly. You apply a certain torque because you're stretching the bolt so the tension within the bolt holds the nut in place. The only way to make sure you've applied the correct amount of torque is a torque wrench. Just because you've always done it that way doesn't mean is the right way to do it... Tight is relative term and usually overkill. You've got an expensive truck, don't be lazy with the maintenance.

And that is why I go back and check (redo) their work. I hate it when they use those f-in impact guns, especially on wheels!!

 

I have one but hardly use it because most of the time I don't know the torque value of the nut/bolt, I think it is nice to have one just because it is easy when dealing wheels changing

 

I should clarify. I am talking about preload. Torquing a bolt is a means to an end. The reason you torque a bolt is create the correct amount of preload on the bolt. While I agree that a properly calibrated torque wrench can indeed be accurate within 3%, the actual force on the bolt might not be correct.

Here is an example: http://www.mechanicsupport.com/articleTorqueWrench.html

That guy torqued two bolts to the exact same number, but came up with two completely different axial loads.

Just because your torque wrench is accurate doesn't mean the axial force is correct.

Be sure to follow manufacturer specs for cleaning & lubricating bolts, and you'll get it right.

 

Most definately.

And, if the bolt is hard / rough going in....you should also back off (go in reverse/loosen) the bolt a bit and then try again. It helps 'clean out' the threads.

 

You can actually use an impact gun with a 'torque stik'

Torque stiks aren't perfect, but its a lot better (and faster) using them with an Impact. I use an impact & torque stik when I rotate my tires. When I'm all done and wheels are back on - I will go back with a torque wrench and check. The torque stik gets 'em pretty close and its usually on the 'lesser' side.

 

I usually just torque very important things like cylinder head bolts, etc.

When doing suspension work I do not use a torque wrench it is not needed IMO. Some people do not know they are doing so they want to torque everything. Torquing oil drain plug, spark plugs or wheel nuts?? Come on now! Never had a problem with my techniques.

 

Agreed, but I can't tell you how many times I've gotten my truck back from the dealer and had to jump on a 24" breaker bar to get the lugs off. If they're using a torque stik, they're not setting it at the correct torque. Some shops are better than others with stuff like this.

 

they cranked mine on too. it was hell getting them off but you sure as hell get a little statement at the bottom of your invoice saying "torqued to manufacturer's specifications" hahahaha what a laugh