Anything welding

I started off using a torch for all my cutting. We used mapp gas mainly seems like it lasted damn near forever.

Years ago when we ran out we swapped it out at tbe local farm repair shop. He gave us his personal tank he just bought since he had no idea how much was in it. That tank lasted a very long time it was a sad day to find out you can't get a big tank of Mapp anymore. Maybe it will come back.

Reminds me i need to get my oxy and acetlyne tanks filled. Have not needed them an they have been sitting for a bit

 

Propane works

 

TIL true mapp gas hasn't been available in north america since 2008 when the last NA plant making it shut down. Modern "MAPP" cylinders are propylene primarily and are substitutes, but not true MAPP. Thanks wikipedia and curiosity.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas

 

Speaking of Mapp Gas a few years Air Gas was burning off The Mapp Gas in cylinders to scrap the cylinders

No demand what so ever . About the only advantage a oxy- fuel torch is to the hobby user is for heating and brazing. Yet I am a hold out with my torch.

Induction Heaters, Plasma Machines and water jets any more for most in industry and all but the smallest fab shop.

 

I'd love an oxyfuel setup, as it's what I learned to cut and braze with.

Just don't want to fork out for the expense considering how little I'll actually use it.

 

I'm considering putting a 3 link on the rear. I'm pretty good tig welding but not great with pipes/tubes. I have more start/stops than I would likebas I make my way around.

Can anyone recommend some tips or ways I can practice this?

 

The small yellow mapp gas cylinders you see isn't really mapp gas. MAPP stands for methylacetylene-propadiene propane. The yellow tanks we have today is just propalene.

Acetylene has a higher flame temperature than real MAPP but since it's stored in acetone, you can fit as much of it in the same volume cylinder. On the other hand, MAPP had a lot of hydrogen in the flame would supposedly cause steel to be brittle.

 

I'd just MIG it; I'd hate to think about all the clean and prep required to TIG it.

 

Does anyone remember the calcium carbide lanterns from way back?

They were essentially acetylene gas lanterns.

 

Im wayyyy better at tig than mig. I more or less have the same problem with mig. I can't seem to walk the cup smoothly around the tube without stopping a lot.

 

$125 on ebay

 

I wish I knew what I did with mine.

I had a big can of calcium carbide as well.

 

Did you know there were cannons too? They used them to scare birds from farm land. I've never heard one but my dad compared them to actual explosives.

You can still buy calcium carbide on Amazon

 

Brings back memories of caving in my misguided youth!!

 

Not much you can really do it is the position there is just no way to be able to see and be comfortable .

No matter what process your using. The nature of tube at most you can only see half the joint or much less.

You can try setting things up to give you the best access to the joints as possible doing a few dry practice runs.

Trail runs are a good idea doing anything cables, torches and guns get hung up stopping things rather abruptly.

Going to be lots of trail and error. Have any prints or good pictures much easier even though for the most we know what your working on

not like it is a easy joint on 12" pipe you could in a positioner and rotate.

You can try setting up as close as possible a practice set up same type of joint and same position.

Practice your tie ins to they are perfect.

 

Looking for some input, So a buddy of mine is looking for a 2 motorcycle hitch hauler to put on the back of his schoolie. A normal 2 dirtbike mount isnt wide enough as hes trying to haul 2 mopeds which are significantly wider than what current hitch mounts offer on the market.

He asked me to draw something up and see an approximate cost/weight to build something just slightly longer. Since I haven't ever welded aluminum I was looking at doing steel for the bike trays. 2x2x1/4" hitch shaft to mount the trays on.

My question is, if I make a c channel tray out of 1/8" thick sheet welding the sides on. would that be strong enough to handle a 300lbish bike? Something like the sketch below:


Trays are 6" wide with 3" tall sides made out of 1/8" steel on a 2x2x1/4" piece of square tube. I figure I will need some extra bracing underneath like 1x2 or 1x1 to help the weight on the trays and also boxing the whole thing in with cross connectors to also use as a tie down point.

 

I’d weld two more hitch mounts wide on the schoolie rather than have 500+ lbs levered out several feet and twisting on one point.

1/8” is pretty thin. I’d bump up a gauge or two, or at least reinforce/disperse the points where the tires will be full time.

 

I can only guess a schoolie which I have never heard of is a former school bus repurposed to a camper.

I also like the idea of 2 receiver mounts to better handle the weight. I would think about bumping up to 3/16"

What is the plan for loading and removing muscle power??

Time to learn Aluminum??

 

if I had a tig or spool gun I would totally be down for making this my first dip into aluminum. Schoolie that is correct is a schoolbus repurposed to a camper.

I was planning on generic aluminum ramps as the hitch height of his bus is only like 20" off the ground.

 

What is the best technique to tie the stitches together/practice tie-ins?