Ontario BS Thread

most of us dream of this trip. Check it out on u tube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ETo95DDNgIM

 

I'M NOT DONE TRYING TO MESS AROUND WITH THE 2K SETTINGS. IDK why but it refuses to actually stick. the 1080p version looks like hot garbage

also don't mind the music, i just grabbed a 2.5hr eurobeat mega mix and threw it in there so it's better than silence for 3 hours.

if you dont want to suffer for 3 hours, i recommend the 12 minute version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGuRsYrgyJQ

 

It's all good man. Thanks for taking the time to share. share.

 

Looking to replace the incandescent H4 bulb in my bike with an LED H4. Anybody have a LED bulb success story, or preferred brand?
My bike pops bulbs like tic-tacs, not sure if its caused by over-voltage or vibration, but hoping an LED is more durable than an incandescent filament.

Ps. Really happy I blew my headlight 10m rather than 10km from home at 530am today.

 

too wide for your 255's

 

Brody is trying to sell this for more than Jeff Bezos does:

$42 FLYCLE 2.5" Leveling Kits for 2005-2023 Tacoma, 2003-2023 4Runner, 2007-2015 FJ Curiser, Front Strut Spacers 2.5'' Lift Kit Compatible with Tacoma 4Runner FJ Curiser

https://www.amazon.ca/LEVELING-2005-2019-TOYOTA-TACOMA-RUNNER/dp/B083VZ27NV/

Not that I recommend a strut-top spacer lift at all. It'll destroy the stock upper ball joint and the shock stem if you take it on a level 2-3 trail.

 

Yeah I figured it’d cause havoc. I’ll probably just go the 5100 route.

 

Gotta say, Russle Toyota in Peterborough did a great job for me. They took the skidplate off, fixed all the fucked threads, and gave me a rundown of what was broken. He recommended I not take the skidplate off because it will likely strip again (retapped threads aren’t as strong).

 

If it was the quick lube place that buggered it up, tell Russell that you want it fixed to OEM spec on their dime.

 

fixing these threads would be a frame swap as i doubt the dealer will rework the weld nuts that the skid attaches to. I would imagine that would be a tall battle to win from the quick lube place

Which ones in particular are stripped. IF the middle two, no big deal to access and fix.

 

Every one is stripped besides the 1 back, and one metal one. They showed me pictures. I have no idea how mr lube did that.

 

Frame swap seems a little excessive, lol! I've never looked close enough, so I don't really know what would be involved. Not enough meat to drill and tap one size up? Probably better off doing it yourself anyway...

 

I think that would involve a frame shop, and frankly, that’s just not worth the hassle in my opinion. If the taps fail (they look well done), I’ll just weld a nut on. Only so much I can do at the end of the day. Definitely going after them review wise and shit.

 

From what I understand there’s not enough physical metal to do that.

 

My comment was out of what the dealer would do if they were to restore to OEM. I dont see the dealer sourcing bolts that can be tapped up a size (the process is likely to break off the welded nuts in the frame. 5 of the 7 nuts are all captive inside frame sections. Unless you had a fab shop cut and chop and weld you are not fixing to OEM. Even then all that cutting and chopping will ruin factory coatings which will result in rust issues down the road.

If the nuts can be busted off their welds then a nut welded on a backer plate could likely be slid into the frame sections and secured in place with another small nut (some hole drilling in frame required).

 

OEM spec (or better), not 100% OEM. That would include being able to safely torque to OEM spec and re & re parts a reasonable number of times with reasonable certainty that threads would maintain integrity. I don't think that's asking too much. If the dealer's professional opinion is that the threads are compromised to the point that it should not be removed again, I would not be satisfied with the repair.

The backing plate with a nut is a good idea. I'm sure there are lots of ways it could be effectively repaired that a dealership would never attempt or endorse. I made a living doing things that gave dealerships and manufacturers nightmares.

 

You can also thread in a stud, either with red Loctite or weld it on, and install the skid plate with a nut instead of a bolt. It's similar in principle to the fuel tank skid mounting.

All this to get you by a couple of years until you do the JD Fab LCA pivot kit and go to 37s like @Norilsk and @Windigo

 

That's a great idea. Nylocks on a stud and you're done.

 

Those are ok until they start spinning. Then they're a pita.