Anything welding

I started another thread on here related to fabrication. If any of you have some time I would appreciate some feedback/comments.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3d-scanner.777438/

 

What process are you using? Position it makes a big difference ?

Are you controlling heat?? Limited access to the joint causing the stopping to reposition yourself or the weldment?

practicing for a code test??

 

MIG on steel, pulse MIG on aluminium, hobby level mostly. Either while doing stitches for heat control or if I need to change position..

the start of my welds are usually pretty "fat" not sure of the correct term? so the overall weld looks kinda lumpy, pretty obvious where the start and stop points are.

Sorry, I'm mostly self taught so terminology and machine settings etc are my weak points lol

 

I treat it like stick; start just forward of the end of your weld and go back into it.

 

When you tack something together, are you able to successfully run a bead over it making the tack unnoticeable?

That could make your tie-in much less noticeable.

Example, these get 4 tacks to keep it square before burning it in. Can't even see where it was tacked.

 

Never stick welded lol, literally learned on Aluminium Pulse MIG and then progressed to Steel. No experience with anything else.

Usually tacks are slightly visible

 

I have little experience however I can say that this method works for me 100% of the time



I'm sure those with more experience will chime in.

 

Ok, so kinda backtrack a bit then go back over as if the start of the weld was a tack. How far do you go, 1/4" or so? More?

 

1. Is where you finished your bead

2. Is where you start welding again, ahead of the bead

3. Is the first direction you go after you've started welding, tying into your initial weld and continuing with your second one

As for distance, that kind of changes depending on heat and travel speed as everyone is different. But looking at my ruler, I personally start a little closer than 1/4" as it'll be too easy to build up a weld when you start up the second time.

 

And @tyfoon11 since you're welding, and going back in and welding again (when applicable), keep in mind the heat you're introducing and watch for warping.

Clamp shit down, and leave it clamped.

 

Time for more practice, thanks sir!

 

If you're in the Central Valley you're always welcome to swing by.

Got a buddy I've been teaching how to weld and he was churning some nice beads within the first 3 hours.

 

Bay area, but appreciate the offer thanks

 

He beat me to a response! Then Kwikvette is still fresh out of school to me this is all muscle memory.

This is one of the problems with self taught welders! I think in school the class spent maybe 10 hours on doing tie ins

years later another few hours in the pipe welding class.

In this age perhaps look to find a video doing tie ins. Video was still a dream in my early days.

Then does it really matter ? It all depends just what your doing . New welders tend to over weld everything.

There is also no shame in breaking out the grinder to fix things just like in any test.

 

been working on a homemade skid plate. Getting closer to being done. Freehand cut the main part out with a plasma cutter.

 

I definitely consider myself a grinder not a welder lol

I think my welds are strong enough, and look ok when I'm in position and doing repetitive stuff, its just odd angles and unfamiliar stuff that is a bit iffy looking. It's mostly just practice but tie ins are one of my weaker areas

 

You can see in the second photo the lump towards the middle where I had a tack. But otherwise not too bad right?

 

Home made stuff for the win

 

one way to find out do a tensile test or a bend test

Like I said does it even matter unless your doing code work under the 3 strikes program.

 

This looks like way too much wire speed or not enough heat to me.