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Home Improvement Today?

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Hotdog, Jul 28, 2008.

  1. Sep 6, 2022 at 2:06 PM
    Pablo8

    Pablo8 Here!

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    Hardly any joist left!

    Maybe extra joists both sides and bolt steel angle bar or flat bar both sides of that cut one
     
    wilcam47, Drainbung and Delta09 like this.
  2. Sep 6, 2022 at 2:36 PM
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    more common than you think , plumbers with chainsaws lol

    You can double the joists on either side and head that section off
     
  3. Sep 6, 2022 at 2:44 PM
    Delta09

    Delta09 Requires Supervision

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    I'm probably gonna go with trimming some more of that cut joist off on both ends and double up some 2x10's perpendicular catching the two surrounding joist, spreading the load out.

    Edit: Crappy drawing...

    20220906_174929.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2022
  4. Sep 6, 2022 at 2:53 PM
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    thats exactly what you should do however in order for the joists either side of the damaged one to take the additional load they should also be doubled , this is usually where it becomes a pain in the ass because they inevitably have plumbing or electrical running through them
     
  5. Sep 6, 2022 at 2:59 PM
    Delta09

    Delta09 Requires Supervision

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    Luckily one side is already doubled for some reason. This house was built pretty damn well, so I shouldn't have any issues doing what I plan to do. I do agree both joist need to be double, just way too much in the way. Unfortunately this is the area where all the plumbing ties in together. Although I need to take all the copper out anyways in that area.
     
  6. Sep 6, 2022 at 3:04 PM
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    What you are proposing is ultimately better than what is there now , if you can get access to 8 clear feet of the non doubled joist (4' either way of your repair) , subfloor adhesive and screwing a piece of 3/4" plywood to the joist would add some resistance to deflection
     
  7. Sep 6, 2022 at 3:11 PM
    Delta09

    Delta09 Requires Supervision

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    I can re-route the electrical in that area to accomplish that. It's a spaghetti factory under the ceiling tile anyways and I need to clean it up. So I can get about 10' of doubled joist (5' in either direction of repair roughly).
     
    Drainbung likes this.
  8. Sep 6, 2022 at 3:15 PM
    TwistedTLM4

    TwistedTLM4 Unknown Member

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    I've used these in the past where plumbers took liberties. Approved for use by code officials.

    And these for bigger than allowed holes thru joists.
     
  9. Sep 6, 2022 at 3:29 PM
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    nice
     
  10. Sep 6, 2022 at 3:48 PM
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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  11. Sep 7, 2022 at 8:35 AM
    kmorgan3

    kmorgan3 Redside Electric, LLC | VLEDS

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    It’s been 3 weeks so my footings are fully cured. I’ll frame up both of these walls this week — that’s the mindless part and I already have my headers drying and a stack of lumber ready to roll.

    Question for the framing-savvy: in order to remove that center wall I have to add rafter ties on every rafter. My engineer called out a 20 ft 2x4 on each rafter in the lower 1/3 to prevent spread. Not bad at all, but the code book says 8(!!!) 16d nails per side to fasten the tie to the rafter. I feel like 8 would just split a 2x4 no matter how much I stagger. The rafters are 2x6 so there isn’t a ton of lap area:
    00017DAC-3574-4040-B584-119B1803E001.jpg

    6651F7AB-B937-45DB-9747-4DBE122EC05D.jpg

    Any suggestions? Maybe I ask him about timberloks or thru-bolts instead of nails?

    Also yes I know I need to re-do the roof on the old side :( Next spring.
     
  12. Sep 7, 2022 at 10:29 AM
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    ask your engineer how many GRK RSS or GRK R4 or similar structural screws would replace the nails at your connection

    https://www.grkfasteners.com/
     
  13. Sep 8, 2022 at 8:55 AM
    xJuice

    xJuice My spoon is too Big!

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    Roof looks pretty shallow. I feel like there is plenty of lap area for 8

    upload_2022-9-8_10-54-19.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2022
    wilcam47 likes this.
  14. Sep 8, 2022 at 9:03 AM
    daveeasa

    daveeasa FBC Harness Solutions

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    From a completely clueless dude, what about those metal pound-in brackets which come on pre-assembled pieces? Are those adequate to hold tension?

    upload_2022-9-8_9-3-7.jpg

    Then you could have zero overlap provided the 2x4 cut angle matched the rafter angle? Is that not OK to do after the fact for specific reason(s)?
     
  15. Sep 8, 2022 at 9:46 AM
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    I havent found a good way to install those
     
  16. Sep 8, 2022 at 9:48 AM
    308savage

    308savage Well-Known Member

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    4 lb hammer and beat the hell out of it.
     
    wilcam47[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Sep 8, 2022 at 9:49 AM
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    I smashed it and broke the board:annoyed::annoyed::goingcrazy::goingcrazy::frusty::frusty::bananadead::bananadead:
     
  18. Sep 8, 2022 at 9:57 AM
    daveeasa

    daveeasa FBC Harness Solutions

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    Some sort of hydralic vice? I don't see anything purpose-built for that though.
     
  19. Sep 8, 2022 at 11:15 AM
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    those plates are usually pressed in on trusses when they are flat on the assembly table

    seriously just nailing or using structural screws on the connection would be easier and a stronger connection
     
    truchador and daveeasa[QUOTED] like this.
  20. Sep 10, 2022 at 7:46 AM
    Dayman Karate

    Dayman Karate Ruffling feathers and turning eagles into vultures

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    Always wanted a 220V welder. Didn’t know I had one behind the stove all along!

    D555BB59-AD09-40DE-A6EE-770AF325A7D4.jpg

    yes it is fully tacked on to the terminal haha
     
    mbarbay, Delta09, RustyGreen and 4 others like this.

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