YotaWerx Tuning Services and Development

Thank you!
Yes Im already a SC owner but I dont have Stryker, just the stock Magnuson tune. I had OV tuned the ECU before the SC install though, and the installer( Oxnard Toyota, a magnuson certified installer) did the flash with no issue.

 

I flashed back to the stock tune, updated the ECU ID, and then flashed the Stryker tune with an old 14 year old Toshiba running Win7 if that helps any. The only issue I had was I needed to update my laptop with Service Pack 1 before the new version of VF Tuner would install. I can send you my notes. Just say the word.

And I'm not exactly a computer whiz!

EDIT: file on the way medicfung.

 

Hell yea! Please! If i can read through them and make sense of it all i might be able to give this a shot

Thank you!

 

I successfully did exactly what @Kruuuzn did just last week (with @GoldenBrew helping me for moral support through the process) - but it all went very smoothly. I used his doc which was super helpful. The only issue we had is the S/C pump kicked on and dropped voltage fast - so I recommend using a Noco Genius 10 on full power supply mode for the battery, or pulling the fuse on the pump so you don't have the voltage drop. Otherwise, it's all very fast. You'll need to install VF Tuner, make sure your Tactrix cable is licensed with the software (plug it in starting the program, if it doesn't work, you'll need to email Magnuson to activate - I did, as I had a shop flash for me during the S/C install so it was my first time using it), and install/setup TechStream per the instructions on the ECU TSB update thread if you need to update your ECU ID. You may already be on the latest ECU ID - I wasn't. If all you have to do is the VF tuner step, and flash Stryker over the Magnuson tune, it's very simple.

 

Hello sir, a bit of clarification on this to add on:

Please do not hesitate to correct me or provide additional clarification, but when you say pulling the fuse, I believe you are referring to pulling the INJ fuse from the fuse box. The pump fuse uses an "add-a-fuse" in that location.

As a heads up, don't pull the INJ fuse itself or the flash will fail; just disconnect the pump wire from the fuse and put the fuse back in. A few months back, another Stryker customer had a big problem flashing and it turned out that pulling that inj fuse will prevent the ECU from being flashed.

 

We pulled the add-a-fuse, which was (during my install) added behind the grill of my truck - had no problems flashing, and the pump didn't turn on - but sounds like the safest bet is to use a battery tender that supplies constant power so it's not an issue. Appreciate the clarification!

 

But Ryan! Unplugging the SC coolant pump was on my list!
hehehe....

I was leery of pulling any fuses so I just unplugged the wiring hardness at the pump itself. Probably overkill.

 

I know.....we tried to skip that step, we had the Noco in the wrong mode (charge, not constant power) which we assumed was sufficient to not unplug the pump, then voltage dipped quickly. At that point we changed the mode to the correct one (constant power), pulled the fuse, and all went smoothly. Luckily Techstream flagged the voltage dip and wouldn't let us update the ECU until we had constant power on, so didn't have any issues. But you're right, safest bet would be to both unplug the pump and use constant power, and not have to worry about anything!

 

If you are only flashing a tune and not updating the ecu the "charge" mode should be sufficient (unless your battery is weak and or ready to crap out) and you should not have to unplug the power from the SC pump. The charge mode is all I have ever used when flashing a tune - just flashed variant of my Stryker - but I always wait until the NOCO light is green and I leave the SC pump as is. For sure if you are doing an ECU update (or fixing a bricked ECU) you will want to use the constant power feature. The

$100 NOCO Genius10 , 10A Smart Car Battery Charger, 6V and 12V Automotive Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, Float Charger and Desulfator for Motorcycle, ATV, Lithium and Deep Cycle Batteries

NOCO Genius10 is what you want - @ktbell444 is the one that told me about it and I think Marc (@mZiggy) and Tony (@tonered) use the same.

 

I don't typically use a maintainer when flashing and have pulled out my jump pack few times when there wasn't enough volts to kick off an ECU update.

Also, I have never directly flashed an S/C Taco either and would definitely take a different approach there.

 

I use my

$100 Genius10 , 10A Smart Car Battery Charger, 6V and 12V Automotive Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, Float Charger and Desulfator for Motorcycle, ATV, Lithium and Deep Cycle Batteries

Genius10 with GX's, older 4R's, supercharged Tacomas, stuff like that when I'm going to update their ECU and follow it up with flash.

For 3GT NA, I've used my

$100 Noco GB40 1000A UltraSafe Car Battery Jump Starter, 12V Jump Starter Battery Pack, Battery Booster, Jump Box, Portable Charger and Jumper Cables for 6.0L Gasoline and 3.0L Diesel Engines

Noco GB40 once and it was fine, but for those and for the 5T4R, idling for a few mins with Aircon/fan and radio off jumps up the voltage nicely for an unsupported flash.

For anyone who doubts me, I've flashed my 2020 4R over 100x in the last month for tune revisions/tweaks and never once needed to support it with a booster, I just idle for a minute or two with accessory voltage draw sources turned off, brings the "engine off/IGN on voltage" up to 12.5-12.8 nearly immediately

 

Some people make a really big show of hauling out a whole cart's-worth of expensive and showy equipment in prep for a flash but keeping voltage up is super easy and doesn't require a flashy display of effort.

 

I've flashed my truck so many times without a tender and without disconnecting the pump now that i'm not even concerned. Yes, I have bricked the ecu a few times but none of that ended up being due to low voltage.

 

I think one of them your laptop died, didn't it? Lol

 

I think the first one that gave me a bit of a scare was a glitch in the vF softwrae that ended up leading to an update for that exact reason. The second I think I bumped the cable just enough to cause a glitch. It's always great to brick an ecu when you are 5 miles from civilization in an empty lot on the side of the road on a wet and story day.

 

I've disconnected the add-a-fuse for the intercooler pump when flashing, just to be cautious.

The only thing I've noticed is that it doesn't snap in quite as tightly as when I first installed the S/C. Still works just fine, but was curious how it fits for others.

 

yep. main thing is turn off everything - lights, HVAC, radio, etc.. some of that has a decent power draw if you aren't paying attention.

I've also done with without turning off anything and my fridge running in the back seat.. but I wouldn't recommend that lol

 

Put in my tune this past weekend, easy instructions to follow, and the truck is driving way better right off the bat. Im hoping to try the other tunes, see which one I like better. Thanks guys.

 

Yes sir, that tune pack has the 4 tunes available, so you'll be able to try them out and settle on whichever suits you best.

Thank you sir!