Anyone change oil filter with TRD Pro skid plate installed?

I've done 3 oil changes now on my truck with the TRD skid left on. One thing I've learned now is leaving the fill cap on when removing the drain plug.

The first 2 changes I left the cap on knowing that the 0w20 is like water. Never made a mess. The last time I did it, I habitually opened the fill cap prior to removing the drain plug. The oil gushed out so hard that before I could fully remove the plug from the hole, the oil was splashing off of it and my socket. It pooled up on top of the skidplate and after the second or so it took me to get the ratchet out of there it was hitting the oil pan so hard it was splashing out of it as well. Made a huge mess and ended up removing the skidplate afterall...

Just a heads up so hopefully it saves you from a headache...

 

Wrong. Never take the drain off without removing the fill. Unless you still loosen the fill, then thats okay lol.
My advice, crack the drain plug with your socket. just to break it loose. put the ratchet down. loosen till its almost off by hand, then with one finger, drag it along the side and spin the plug so it loosens and falls out. no problem. Have done this hundreds of times on hot engines with no gloves. No oil on me.

 

Sorry I didn't mean to put ratchet in there. I crack it first then remove the small extension with socket and finish it by hand. You can't reach through the skid plate with your hand unless you have baby hands so I use use the small extension to reach the plug. Again didn't make a mess with this method until I removed the filler cap.

I've never heard that you have to remove the fill cap before draining. Just curious why you think this?

 

If you drain the oil and fill cap can't be removed, how do you get oil back in the engine? This is a general rule of thumb for all fluids. Remove the fill so you are 100% sure you can refill the engine/transmission/differential, and only then, drain the old fluid.

 

Haha oh. Yes, I know this. I've personally never had an engine oil filler cap get stuck or break when trying to remove it so I take my chances. Differentials, transmissions, etc. I definitely remove the fill plugs every time before draining.

 

Really, oil fill caps getting stuck closed? I have been changing oil on many different cars / motors for almost 50 years and never once had an oil fill cap that would not come off with a flick of the wrist.

 

I've had some get stuck via expansion from heat. But that's different. Had one that was metal get seized, got it off with pliers though. Usually happens on older cars that are still really hot. Didn't see them get seized too much!

So I would agree with you... but I would hate to have it happen and not have a way to get oil in the engine. Seems like an expensive mistake when you could've checked and made sure you can remove the fill cap first... Costs you nothing to be cautious. Costs you a lot if you don't check first! I just made it a rule of thumb for all fluids so I never forgot. Maybe I'm weird though!
I also always put the fill cap on the hood latch so that I never forget to put oil in the car. Simple and I never had an issue with forgetting, but again, it's these little things that prevent expensive mistakes and comebacks. Unhappy customers.

 

I added a fumoto valve and never worry about getting oil on the skid plate now. Makes changing oil a breeze. Just hook up a piece of tubing, flip the valve and oil flows. Takes longer than with just a drain plug but I'm usually working on the filter at the same time.

https://www.fumotousa.com/f133s.html

 

@JakeJob Thanks for the reply!

I've always opened/taken the refill cap off so when the oil drains, it flows as it drains because there's an open airway from the top of the engine refill area.

After opening the airway from the refill cap, I'll loosen the oil pan drain plug until I can turn it by hand. As the bolt thread comes to the end of its contact with the plug, I quickly slide the drain plug bolt to let the oil flow straight down. I may get a little backsplash but it's minimal.

Once the oil pan is drained, I cap it back on hand tight and proceed to remove the oil filter. (There's a washer that needs to be replaced for the drain plug)

That aluminum-looking washer screw cap on the Oil Filter Housing gets loosened and then hand twisted off. This will expose the valve which gets pushed upward to release the oil from the filter.

This is where that NEW drain valve with the hose comes into play. Connect the valve and twist it upward to slowly release the oil in the filter housing unit. This process is much cleaner than using the plastic tip valve that comes with the filter kit.

I have the aluminum filter housing unit (to replace the plastic housing) and filter wrench and will cautiously tighten the housing unit...making sure the wedges from the filter wrench are properly fitted to the housing unit. This should keep the wing contact points in line so they aren't stressed and break off. (I'll look to see what the torque specs are for housing unit but I've always gone 1/4 turn from when it makes contact)

Tighten up the oil pan bolt to 25 (30 is what is recommended but 25 is acceptable according to what I've seen in replies)

I've actually never torqued the oil pan bolt...and avoid gorilla tightening.

Fill her up and check for leaks. Start her up and check for leaks.

After engine has cooled for a couple of hours, check the dip stick to see if you need to add more oil.

 

Brave souls, admitting to being a dealer tech on TW.

 

Also, you can fill through the dipstick tube or pcv most of the time. Can even fill through the drain plug with a hose and/or shop vac, ask me how I know.

 

Yeah, I've never experienced changing oil this low of viscosity as well as having a skidplate to deal with. I just wasn't ready for it when the cap was off. I'm sure I could adjust for it next time but the skidplate is a little bit in the way when removing the plug. Also my drain pan is pretty shallow so I'm sure that didn't help with the backsplash.

Those filter drain valves seem cool. I'll have to look into one of those. The plastic thing included with the filter is a PITA sometimes.

 

I ain't your average dealer tech! I'll tell you not to go there! Ha

 

Oddly enough i came to this post after i did an oil change because the dealer tech had left my oil cap off and i hadint noticed for 1-2k miles of driving after the service so i was doing one for possible contamination.

 

It's Friday!

It's been a LONG short week...and I went to bed at 11:30pm last night.

My daughter & son-in-law tried to park at Nationals Stadium (I don't know the actual name) for a concert and said it was the worse experience.

I had dog-sitted while they went on the hour's drive through DC traffic at 5:45pm for a 7:30pm concert that they never got to see.

I drove back from outskirts of Baltimore at 10pm and did not get home until 11:30pm...woke up at 4:50am to be to work at 6am...so I'm on my 2nd cup of coffee and adrenaline to do my job.

Enjoy the weekend TW...hopefully, I get to do my oil change...waiting on the Chevron Havoline 6qt box to be delivered today.

 

Already mentioned, but I'll chime in too. You can change the oil and filter through the trap door. The filter is offset, but getting it off is not a big issue unless Magilla Gorilla torqued it to 150 ft lbs. Just make sure to drain the filter first or it will spill the captured oil on the underside of the skid plate which makes a big-ass mess. The little drain tube is not very expensive and takes the mess out of this.

 

I had to use a cheater bar on mine which is funny because ive done a filter change on a P&W 2000 turbine engine and it took a 1” drive wrench and a 6ft cheater bar with 2 guys to get that filter cover off. On top of that the maintenance manual states to re-tighten the filter cover “hand tight”

 

That!

Right there is how the oil filter should be torqued!

That plus, adding a dab of new oil around the rubber seal.

 

Now you just have to worry about it failing....as many have. Aren't these things prone to breakage?

 

I've used it on multiple vehicles and friends have as well. No issues. The black outlet cap and safety clip haven't failed or fallen off on me either. If you're really worried I supposed you could drill a hole in the small valve handle and safety wire it.