Long Travel BS Thread

I’m 2.0x4. Lots of people claim they will make the rear buck. But I have not had one single bit of it. Zero complaints.

 

Hydros should solve any bucking issue you may have as opposed to any rubber compound bump stop. There is literally no transfer of kinetic energy in rubber except rebound. That was my experience at least.

 

Never heard of bucking issues, but my complaint was they were engaging too early. Shocks still had some good travel left before getting into the bump zone. Different bypass configurations can probably benefit from the 4” bump

 

Mine engage shortly after the piston enters the bump zone. It’s butter. I have them at like 30PSI right now and I couldn’t ask for more

 

@05Taco4x4 iirc?

 

Less broken bones though

 

I acquired one of these but isn't installed because I'm a slacker (at end of a 3 year house renovation ) :
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/561017/

 

Well the 30psi probably helps lol. That said my shortened ones only run 80psi.

But hey, they’re bump stops and their main purpose is to keep things from going metal to metal. My buddy @DMCtacoma who used to be on here had one of the best handling trucks I’ve ever ridden in with a 3-link in the back and he was running some autozone rubber bumps on his

 

I’ve got 200 psi in my bumps but they are IFP style so you can’t run much less without loosing travel. They utilize a negative spring and operate like any other IFP shock, not emulsion.

it works out through as I don’t have bypass and need the bottom out control. With a bypass you could spread the load out a bit between the bypass & bumps.

I also shortened my fronts up to a 1” bump so they don’t engage as early. So far it’s been really nice.

 

Ah okay, i just remember that being mentioned along with your truck somewhere ...the manual hub thread maybe. Thanks for linking that thread it's really interesting. Having an AWD tacoma is a regular daydream i have all winter haha

 

Does anyone know the correct rod end length for king Total Chaos spec? Got the coilovers from a member and he sent extra rod ends that are 3 inches. Hard to get ahold of him and hard to find correct info online. Heres a pic of whats currently on them. What is currently on them are not 3 inches.

 

Those are extended eyelets from the standard Kings. Cycle the truck and see what extended/collapsed lengths you need.

 

Thanks!

 

Are the measurements found online for a coilover assuming the preload collar is all the way at the top?

 

You can typically find them with a little research but don’t you physically have a set on hand? Just measure what you have.

There’s no correlation between the preload and the extended/collapsed lengths.

 

Preload doesn’t change overall stoke length.

 

Thats what I was trying to wrap my mind around. Sorry for the dumb questions

 

Like you said I should probably just cycle suspension and see whats what and not worry about irelevant numbers. Just trying to learn as much as I can

 

Well dudes, that didn’t work. Swapped out my 700# 16” springs for 600# 18” springs. If you remember I have a third gen with tube bumper and winch, 3/16 steel skids all the way to the t case, and steel sliders. Probably all good for maybe 300-400 extra pounds at least.

The 600 pounders won’t even compress. With the full weight on it I can’t even connect my limiting strap. That’s without the tire just jacking the arm so it’s not tire friction holding the thing up. On the ground I have an extra 4” of lift - which I am sure will drop if I roll back a bit.

I thought 500’s would be too light but I think I might try them.

 

Ride around a bit before doing anything. My truck always sits super tall after having the front in the air. Tires keep it from spreading out and down even if I let the jack down aggressively.