Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I’ve followed in this thread for a while. And heard numerous people talk about shortening a bump. Which I understand why and everything. But I’d be lying if I said I can feel my fronts or rears engage. I can hear them slap occasionally but that’s about it. I’d be really curious to know what the internal pressure increase is per inch of compression.

 

I would constantly hear my fronts engaging. After shortening them to 1 inch not so much anymore. My rears I shortened to 2 inches because at 4 inches you are putting almost 25% of your travel in the bump…not ideal IMO. My favorite kind of wheeling is hitting whoops at speed and with that you are spending a lot of time in the bump stops. So I optimized it to my liking.

 

That’s probably because you’re only running 30 psi in the rear. Lol

With you having a bypass shock, you can rely on the bump zone of the bypass and not solely on the bump stop itself. That along with low psi is probably why you can’t feel the engagement.

I can’t feel my fronts as much as the rears due to the leverage from the motion ratio but I can tell occasionally depending on how hard of a hit.

Pressure buildup would be directly related to the nitrogen pressure you’re running. Standard hydro bumps are an air shock at the end of the day.

 

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I guess at the end of the day, it’s probably different terrain styles. Where I’m at I have very high shaft speed terrain. Lots of wicked chop. I’ve been learning to use them to my advantage. I don’t use every last bit of travel I have front or rear. It’s very close. But I have yet to fully compress a bump. My god the ride on this shit….

 

I don’t associate the zoning of the shocks with terrain or even driving style but all that matters is if you’re happy with your setup. Obviously different expectations for different people and applications.

Im curious to know how far you are from engaging the bump at ride height in the front. What springs did you end up going with?

 

If the bumps are bled properly, then there should be roughly as much nitrogen volume as there is exposed shaft, plus a little. So if you say on a 2" bump there is roughly 4cubic inches of volume, with 1cubic inch of nitrogen volume at full compression, set at 100psi, compressed 1" would be 200psi and fully compressed would be 400 psi

It's called Boyles law, and if you have the actual volumes you can pretty easily figure it out

 

Here's a calculator for it

https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/boyles-law

 

So apparantly part number 44250-04040 (Rack assembly) is on natonal back order with no date of stock from what I am getting. Edit - I am an idiot too. 44250-04021 replaces 44250-04020 which is the 2wd version. 44250-04040 is the 4wd version from what I am understanding.

Also never take your truck to a unknown/not already trusted alignement shop. They completely destroyed my cam bolts. Idiots.

 

I would have to look in my notes. I honestly don’t remember. I’m on 600’s up front. All I know is I have it setup to the point I cannot feel my bumps engage front or rear. I’m averaging right around 1/2-3/4” of bump left on all 4 corners. My big advantage is my terrain typically isn’t bigger than my travel anymore. I don’t know as though better is achievable in my area.

I have pursued shock tuning quite heavily to get it to this point as well. I’m not sure how much everybody else is diving in to change valving, bleed etc. But I’ve had all 4 shocks off probably 10x now. My entire goal was a smooth transition through the entire range of travel. I certainly did not have that with the base tune that came with these shocks. It was simply too stout for a while and at that point my bumps did feel like hitting a wall.

 

I guess that’s kind of my point. Wouldn’t you be better tuning the shock to eliminate some of the harshness from the bumps? If pressure is doubled half way through the travel like I assume it is you’re gradually ramping up the bump stop force vs whacking a good bit of pressure the second it touches the bumps. I’ve never tuned for big whoopy stuff but I assume you’re bottoming bumps all day long. Mine is basically tuned for straight up chop/sharp edge type stuff. Likely just different worlds as far as why I’m not fully grasping your end.

 

Replace “pics” with “video”.

 

I have some boring ones on my IG

906Taco.

going out this afternoon I’ll try to take some better ones…

 

Heading out with @Sixthelement later this morning hopefully for a tuning session. Pulled a leaf Friday and truck seems to be feeling a lot more balanced again. Will try to get videos for later.

 

what leaf pack is he running? Still SOA yeah?

 

Yeah he’s still soa and running some all dogs leaf’s I think. I was talking about my truck though. Been fighting the weight loss in the rear with tuning so pulled one of mine. He’s all loaded up for a trip next week he said so will probably ride along with me and help film and what not

 

I have an 07 V8 4runner and have TC upper control arms, Whiteline LCA bushings, Poly bushings in the rack, new-ish TREs, rag joint removed in the steering shaft, as much caster as I can get out of it and still get a lot of feedback into the steering wheel going over bumps. Guessing it could be the 215k mile steering pump since I've eliminated nearly every other factor in sloppy steering?

 

The TC pump helps substantially. I still had some feedback with the TC, slide rack and mid travel. For whatever reason going long travel took the rest of the feedback away.

 

I wonder if the V8 runners have a TC style pump from the factory, would be nice to throw a Howe pump in there.

 

It’s worth a look. Lots of T4R stuff is shared with Tacoma as well. But yes, your pump is probably tired.

 

Sounds like you dislike the lack of steering feedback. Are you instead talking about bump steer? Steering feed back is important and why steering alignments are very important because if any of that is off, a driver can sense and feel it definitely. I haven't driven my FJ yet but part of the reason we resort to solid mounts, joints and bushings is for the feedback.