Spinning Trans drain bolt...

yes I know this is a common thread here, but this happened to me as well. I changed my trans fluid, tried to torque down all my bolts, then my trains drain bolt went righty loosey. Luckily its been a week and I have not seen any drips, just trans fluid around the brim of the bolt that you can only see with a flash light. My question is how urgent is this fix? And would you suggest just biting the bullet and buying a new pan, trying to just replace the bolt, or trying to fix the pan?

 

A new pan is probably the best fix. Given how thin the pan is and the quality of the bolts, it's not likely that the problem is a stripped bolt, although it would only cost you a little time to check. I guess you could drop the pan, drill it out, cut new threads, and replace with a larger bolt, but for the cost of whatever sized tap you'll need as well as the specialty bolt, you might as well just get a pan.

While you've got the pan out, consider inspecting and replacing the trans strainer as well if you have the spare $$$. They're a "lifetime" part, but when I did mine at ~230k there was a noticeable amount of stuff in the filter as well as inside the pan and on the magnets.

I'd fix it sooner rather than later - the last thing you want is that stripped bolt vibrating loose and dumping your trans on the highway.

 

I sealed the drain with epoxy (JB Weld). Drain through the check plug.

 

It would be a disaster if it vibrated loose while you were driving.

 

I would fix it ASAP...it's a disaster waiting to happen.

 

This. Then next time you change the transmission oil, just replace the pan.

 

I did the same to mine, stripped it using a torque wrench. I didn't realize it was stripped until next time I went to change the ATF. I went to loosen it to drain the fluid and it was too easy to loosen. I then tightened it up again and it wouldn't 'hold' as the threads were stripped. But on mine, I still needed a socket /ratchet to remove the drain plug.

I bought a new pan, gasket, and strainer, as suggested above. After this, I'm never using a torque wrench on any drain plug again - just going to go by feel.

If your drain plug can be spun using your fingers, I wouldn't be driving it. If it needs a wrench to turn, I'd say you have a bit more time.

On my truck, once I knew I screwed up the treads, I replaced the pan as soon as I could.

 

In the mean time before you get a new pan, I'd try to do some sort of safety wire to ensure it does not come out.

 

The problem is, that the torque for the drain bolt is for a DRY thread install.
It’s 21 ft/lbs, but add trans fluid to the bolt threads and you’re pushing it.
Tighten until the crush washer/gasket collapses. Then “spark plug tight” is usually good enough.

What setting were you using to torque to?

 

Good point. Torque should be reduced 10-15 %, to 17 lbs in this case. But, I too go by feel; same with oil drain plug and diff plugs.