Long Travel BS Thread

It’s a 2” King shorty. I talked to DSM about shortening but they said I couldn’t. Something about oil volume. I can’t remember.

I have some super bumps too. I was actually going to weld a plate to the bottom of my air bump cam and run those. It would give me maybe another inch of travel.

I’m with you though. I really don’t like the option of not running anything. I’m sure it would be okay, but don’t dare to.

 

They said why would you. I asked them if it was possible, then they shortened my compact bumps to 1"

 

I don’t know. I had the 2.0 shorties and asked if I could shorten to 1”. This is exactly what they said.

Maybe mine were different than yours?

 

It's possible that they are different, but I think it comes down to in most all applications you wouldn't want a 1" stroke bump stop. They default to a good stand by answer. But if you're motivated they are pretty easy to add a spacer to. I don't have mine back on the road yet, so I can't tell if its a good solution. But before I shortened them, the stops were only a 1/4" from hitting the arms at ride height.

 

You can shorten the 2.0 2" bumpstops.

Not running some sort of bumpstop is just plain stupid unless your a 2800lb moon buggy rock crawler u can get away without one

 

@erok81 You can tune them to your liking if the 1" is too much by cutting the spacer to .5", effectively a 1.5" bump. Depends on your kit and how much bump is engaging. Ie. Before, I had dirt King, they recommended shortening the bump, but now when I had JD re do mine, he suggested on leaving it and the JD kit bumps with the 2". I'm not sure if it was an afterthought for DK but seems like they set the geometry and threw the bumps in later, otherwise setting a strike pad or arm height to match the 2" bump would be optimal/convenient.

 

I’m going to throw the bump back on and watch it. Then maybe shorten it. I have the very first hoop kit from DK. I think I also was the first to install it (I’m pretty sure I beat them to it). Back then it was don’t use bumps the bypass was enough. I added them anyway.

It’s been a bit and I can’t remember exactly how much room I had between the bump and the pad. Once I get it together update.

 

Okay…got it measured. With the coil over off the vehicle it measures 16.5”.

 

So you have 1.5" of preload, which is .25" more than I have with 550lb springs and .75" more than I had with 600s. You should have stuck with an 16" spring.

 

Yep. I just assumed that with my 700 I’m using 0.75 of preload and @EatSleepTacos is running over an inch with 500’s and my truck is definitely heavier than his, 600 would have worked.

I’m not going to but part of me wants to see how much preload I’d have with a 500 18”. Not to run just for curiosity since I could have sworn the 600 would have worked. Oh well. Now I have some spare springs I can use for decoration or something.

Edit: yours are all 16” as well?

 

600s will work but not in an 18" length. Yes, mine are 16" springs but I don't have an over thread cap (Fox).

 

All this spring talk I thought I’d chime in with some recently gained leaf knowledge. Since I’d say the majority of people run deavers most likely in here. Called them up today to talk about new leafs for my truck since I broke a main leaf yesterday.

Their more popular sua options for tacomas are the H70 and H70HD packs. I have been running a pack designed for the DMZ sua kit which is a proprietary pack for their kit and not the same as the others.

With the DMZ setup I ran that pack with an add a leaf due to weight. When I inverted the shackles to my custom setup I ditched the ads a leaf and it was running beautifully for the last year ish. Recent back half I ditched around 200-300lbs in the rear end and have been fighting spring rate and valving even though ride height was pretty perfect.

So trying to figure out the best pack for me I called deaver today. Talking with them, the DMZ pack is very close to the H70HD’s, with the standard H70’s being a fair bit lighter. Don’t have official numbers or anything yet but they are supposed to call me back tomorrow to talk numbers and compare my current pack with the pulled leaf to the H70’s and others. Will my worn out pack with the pulled leaf be close enough to the H70’s to be a good change, or will I really need to be somewhere in between and go for a custom pack? I’ll share more as I learn more.


For reference I weighed the truck yesterday as is fully loaded for normal driving scenario and a full tank of gas.



Was total weight 5680 before the tundra axle and 37’s so I may be heavier now than the last time I weighed it, but definitely a few hundred lbs lighter than before the back half.

 

If you really wanted try the 600lb rate, you could probably find some 16x600 since that’s what most kit spec’d coilovers ship with.

I’m running 18x500 with a cap-over ADS coilover with no weight up front. If you have a bunch of weight, you just have to watch out for coil bind at full stuff. I have this much preload on the passenger side and a little more on the driver side.

 

If I did run 18’s at 500# assuming I used the entire shock travel (which I don’t) it would be very close to coil bind at full compression. Something like 1/10”. I doubt I’ll try it but I think I would be okay if I did. Coil bind anyway.

However I think even if I ran a 500 18” even with zero preload just going to be way too high.

 

Sounds like you’re gonna want some extra weight out back. Cell? Spare?

 

I have some 16” 600# for sale if you want them

 

I wasn't suggesting, I am simply adding my testimony to those attesting that 18” coils do fit on external-thread-cap coilovers.

Personally, I wouldn’t run an 18x500 in your case because of the weight you run. 500lb would probably require too much preload for a 16” or 18” spring at your weight. And an 18x600 is heavier than the 16x700 when you preload it that much. So it sounds like 16x600 or maybe 650 should be close to your sweet spot. But as others have said, you should try out the valving first to isolate where that variable landed you. You should be able to tell if you are fighting the spring.

 

I like the idea of not adding extra weight just to keep things lighter but it might come down to it if needed. Already have the 37” spare as far back as it will go and about 80lbs of tools and gear loaded behind the cab. Might you around with the idea of a second spare since I have a bunch of spare tires laying around. Could always strap my old 35” spare that’s mounted to the stock spare steelie and see how that goes. Or just grab a. Chunk of 1/2” plate and weld it on lol. We’ll see what the guy from deaver says when he calls me back today to talk about spring rates and options

 

Thing is, if your distribution is off its going to be a bastard to tune regardless. That was my main point on the weight to the rear.

 

Yeah and after talking to them this morning I think I’m leaning towards going that way.


The DMZ pack that I was running before the back half is 140lb/in

That pack with the leaf removed which is what I am currently running that felt pretty good is 125lb/in

Their H70 pack is 115lb/in and their H70HD is 145lb/in

Or they can do a custom pack and it's 8-12 weeks out.

So the H70 is probably gonna be too light and the HD and DMZ pretty perfect so long as I find some weight to add.