JDM 3.4L swap parts list double check?!?!?!?!

So After my 372k mile 3.4L got a case of rod knock and with quotes as high as $6k for a machine shop to rebuild it and 2-3 month waiting times for a re-manufactured $4-5k long-block I picked up a JDM motor. So far i've noted the JDM motor's water pump pulleys/ belt size, oil pan/ pick up, power steering pulley setup, Harmonic damper, exhaust manifolds, upper intakes are different. I'm putting together a parts list which should hopefully allow me to do the swap without having to take that dreaded mid-swap parts store trip.

I've decided to throw this motor in as close to "As delivered" condition as possible in case it's a dud at start up so I can easily pull it out and take it back for warranty. It ran $2,200 OTD and came with a 90 day warranty. The seller had no issue with me scoping the cylinders and performed a compression test and leak down of ALL cylinders right in front of me. They were very easy to deal with.

I purchased my motor from

Jdm Engine Bay Inc
2439 Verna Ct, San Leandro, CA 94577

Ordering NEW:

-OEM Exhaust manifold gaskets, cross over-pipe gaskets
-Valve cover gaskets, cam end plugs
-OEM Upper intakes gaskets
-Pilot bearing (JDM came from an Automatic)
-Clutch alignment tool
-Motor mounts
-Red antifreeze/ coolant
-Oil/ filter change
-U.S spec oil pan and pick up tube
-Toyota seal packing #103

Reusing from old motor:

-Recently replaced OEM spark plug wires, Denso iridium dual electrode plugs
-Water pump pulleys, Fan bracket, Fan clutch, Fan, drive belts
-Alternator, P.S pump, A/C compressor, A/C idler pulley, starter
-(45k mile) Aisin flywheel, Clutch, flywheel bolts, manual block plate
-Complete Electrical harness
-Vacuum/ evap hoses
-Upper intakes/ Throttle body
-Harmonic damper

Anyone know what the Japanese 100,000kms sticker means? Timing belt done at 100kms or should be done every 100kms





Audio/ video of my truck's confirmed Rod knock.

https://youtu.be/k86WcL4F28k

 

Did you have a compression test, leak down test?

I've heard plenty of good and plenty of bad JDM motors stories.

JDM fan bracket is a different length in size then the American fan bracket,
Sticker is timing belt replacement

 

It's a reminder sticker

https://www.puremr2.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=158

 

195-205psi in all cylinders and leak down done in front of me.

 

Well tore the motor down some yesterday and i doubt this thing has more than 100k miles if that. Definetly just had a timing belt/ water pump service not long ago. Was thinking of doing cam/ front main seals but after opening her up i'm not going to bother. Planning on installing it with the current timing set/ water pump to first see if the motor is good to go. Then later if all is well I'll swap in all new timing set and a U.S spec water pump and the oil cooler. To be honest other than different hoses/ lines the intake looks the same. Will have to do a side by side to compare.....

 

Looks like a clean motor inside!
Valve cover gaskets and cam seal gaskets need to be replaced which typically go out around 150k.

 

Parts have been coming in and I have gotten the JDM motor just about prepped for the swap. A few things to note for anyone attempting this swap; So although the oil filter and it's hollow screw easily move over to the U.S filter location (closest to front of engine) the cooler cap/ and it's hollow bolt witch came with the JDM does not move over to the cooler location. The threads on the bolt are too short and leave a 1/8" gap between the bolts sealing surface and the cap. I'm planning on running the motor initially without the cooler since that would require changing the water pump now, I'll just run the oil filter in the JDM location for now (hopefully no interference). I want to make sure the motor runs well for at least an oil change before doing water pump/ timing belt/ oil cooler and such. I went ahead and installed new Cam pucks with Toyota 103 sealant as well as cleaning and re-sealing the half moons and cleaning the valve cover gasket surfaces. I also installed a used U.S spec oil pick up tube and a New U.S oil pan sourced from Amazon, zero issues there. No pieces of metal in the bottom of the oil pan and the JDM pick up screen was clean of any foreign material, all excellent signs of a healthy engine! Wire wheeled all the exhaust manifold studs and ran a thread chaser thru them and cleaned the gasket sealing surfaces. Picked up all OEM manifold, cross over pipe gaskets at the dealer and that hurt the wallet quite a bit. I also went ahead and cleaned all the brackets for the A/C, power steering and alternator. The only one that seems different is the power steering bracket/ idler. Since the JDM engine is in such low millage condition I'm also choosing to run it's OEM Denso; coil packs, injectors and IAC valve instead of my 375k mile units.

More to come........

 

This is a very informative write up, thanks for sharing it.

 

Such as great engine. Love 5VZE tear downs, thanks for the pics

 

I'm so tired of mine and my fellow 4 banger woe's.....
......Its great to have a 5Vz revival.....
that engine looks great.....homerun......

 

Looking good, keep the pictures coming.

 

...

 

100 miles down and she sounds like a proper Japanese sewing machine.

 

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/L6wr8h9G1IE

So the rig is back in action and I've gone on two camping trips totaling 3k miles without any issues with the JDM motor. As for the installation the only pain in the ass part was aligning the trans input shaft back into the clutch/ back of crank while dropping the motor back in. Even leaving the trans in neutral and having done this 100's of times I felt the 3.4 was a bit extra annoying in this regard. Even so i'd still do it the same and NOT pull the tranny/ transfer with the motor second time around.

I was able to unbolt my P.S pump and A/C compressor from the old motor (without disconnecting any fluid/ freon lines) and zip tie em along with the engine wiring harness to the sides. There wasn't even a need to unbolt the air box or remove the battery. Everything worked as it did prior to the swap when finished.

My old engine's rear main seal was leaking pretty badly. Nice that the tranny shop (AAMCO) whom did my clutch/flywheel 40k miles ago failed to mention it.

As for JDM to U.S stuff.... None of the JDM accessory brackets worked with the exception of the alternator bracket. I by-passed/ plugged off the oil cooler for the swap and am waiting on new oil cooler hoses and o-rings to put it back in action.

On an interesting note with the exception of the MAF and TPS i used ALL the sensors that came on the JDM (injectors, fuel regulator, coil packs....). The Tacoma's ECM had no issues with it. At first fire up she missed on all 6 cylinders for about 1-2 minutes while the PCM learned everything and then she just figured herself out, warmed up and came to a nice idle. A drive with varying rpms/ speeds and getting it up to proper temps seemed to seal the deal.

I do have a slight idle miss that followed from the old motor which I'm 99% sure is my 375k mile Air/ Fuel/ O2 sensors. Everything else that would control idle/ mixture is OE in good condition or OE from the JDM motor. MAF gets cleaned every other oil change and i'll be putting the multimeter to the TPS to be sure.

I plan on doing the oil cooler, water pump, timing stuff and some Liquimolly treatments on the new motor along with a fresh oil/ filter change next.

My total cost including the motor and all replacement parts, fluids, expendables was around $2,650.00 and just shy of 16 hours of my time for the actual swap.

 

So to test out the JDM motor I drove around 2,400 miles out and back to Moab, Utah for some much missed camping and a lil wheeling. A worn out original power steering pump I had to change in an O'reilys parking lot was the only issue. The JDM burned ZERO OIL and was always at proper temperture. I'll be intalling a real oil pressure gauge soon to keep better tabs on the engine. So far so good.

 

In case any other things come up, @hessian42, Google Translate has a camera option that works surprisingly well for stuff like this:


Really interesting thread -- thanks for the terrific pix of your work.

 

Great write-up! This helps a ton. Thank you.

Might have to reach out to the company you bought the engine from for my potential engine swap.

 

So not too long ago (less than 500 miles) I did get around to swaping in my 2k mile OEM timing belt, rollers, tensioner and most importantly U.S spec water pump with the outlet for the oil cooler. The JDM motor definetly just had the service done prior to getting parted out. And although the T belt was from a different company all the rollers were NSK (OEM) just Like my replacement parts. They did however use the poor quality paper gasket instead of the updated metal/ rubber part I installed which i'm sure would have leaked prior to the next 90k mile service. Everything went in without issue and I also installed a new OEM thermostat/ o-ring, got the oil cooler hooked back up with new orings and installed a New harmonic damper. A fresh oil change and some LiquiMolly engine flush and ceracoat treatment for peace of mind. I think I've put around 4,000+ miles on the JDM now and It still hasn't burned a single drop of oil or given me ANY issues! Definetly lucked out with a good motor.