What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Just turn your fenders into some built in overland tables like this

https://www.instagram.com/p/CdmdWXlt4QU/

 

Joe Dirt as a truck

 

I think a lot of y'all would benefit from narrower wheels and tires.

I don't see many guys with beadlocks, so the wider wheels aren't really helping and seem to require a whole lot of work.

 

Now that's f'n stupid lol

 

Been there, did that...













No more tiny tires dammit...

 

Sure BS makes a difference.

Example: The wheel highlighted (the ones I'm actually considering)




Going from my 4.75 BS (current) wheels, to those... plus losing the 1.25 spacers. Effectively eliminates half of the width increase from 3.5 inch LT

Making the overall width increase 3.5 inches instead of 7 inches over what I currently have. The only question I'd have is whether the 5.25 BS will work with Solo spindles. Before I actually start pulling triggers, I'll definately call them and see if they know.

 

I'm about 1/8" away from rubbing the stock spindle top with my tires on a 4.0BS, the solo spindle would need a lot of built in clearance to make anything in the 5 region fit I'd think.

 

I see what you're saying. But, I'm thinking it's all going to come down to where the hub puts the wheel relative to the spindle. It's not a Toyota hub, it's Dana 44, so I'm not sure what that means for the clearance.

I know just my stock spindles with Total Chaos gussets wont fit even 4.75 BS without spacers, so I do see what you're saying.

 

Yeah if the hubs are farther out from the spindle that would affect it for sure. That's a problem with toyota solid axles actually, lots of different hubs to choose from that can make combos of tires not fit from one truck to another. Of course if it is true of the Solos too then having more BS on a wheel isn't really bringing the tire in, its just keeping it from going out further. Do they have a rough WMS-WMS on the kit you're looking at? Might give clues how much over stock they are.

 

LOL... Skinnier tires definitely would not be a step in the right direction here.

How do you figure wider wheels (and tires) won't help without beadlock?

 

I don't have experience with all the crazy wheeling trips I've seen from you, but I've definitely done my share of deep snow and mud. My dad and I are both pretty serious woodworkers (I did it professionally for about 8 years), and the best lumber usually comes directly from a logging operation (they literally throw away a lot of the prettiest stuff because it doesn't make good boards). Logging roads get pretty hairy in VT, especially loaded up with a couple tons of burly maple. I also transported telecom batteries up to cell towers for a buddy who owned a telecom business when I lived at home. I don't have any trail ratings to tell you. If those roads were even rated, I never paid attention. Never did any of that with a Taco, it was always a big Powerstroke diesel, so my experience may be completely irrelevant, but...

Lower tire pressure beats big fat tires from what I've seen, and wider wheels lose beads easier than narrower wheels. Tacos are light enough that you shouldn't have to go super wide, so if you're sacrificing the tire pressure aspect, I'd say it's more trouble than it's worth. Plus, you're getting a bigger (and more useful) contact patch by going with a taller tire already.

And finally, the whole idea of flotation is a lot more relevant to straight axle applications. IFS doesn't get bogged down in deep snow or mud for the same reasons as a straight axle.

Sorry for all the editing on this post. I think it's important to articulate my point well, since I'm probably outnumbered here. Here's a pic of one of our trucks ('99 F250 Powerstroke) driving down from a cell tower at the top of Killington Ski Resort as an apology.

 

Just keeping it from going out further is exactly what I'm after. No delusions here about bringing tires in after having put a 3.5 inch LT kit on it lol.

WMS to WMS... I actually asked them. The guy I was talking to (not Bobby, he was out on Vacation) didn't give a number. Said it's a lot more subjective on a IFS than on a straight axle. Which I do see his point, it would depend on where the coilovers are set, unlike on straight axle where the WMS to WMS is what it is and doesn't change.

But the Solo LT (not XLT) is packaged at 3.5 inch, over stock, per side.

 

I've had similar ideas too. Not full exo but just enough to bump the truck off shit.

@deeezy 's build comes to mind before he went full exo:

 

THAT is exactly what I'm talking about! I couldn't find a pic without the whole exo, lol

 

But the question is... what the hell do ya do if you have to take the front or rear bumper off?

 

Check his build, he did it really well with the roll cage removable bungs too so body panels/bumpers can be easily accessed/removed. For sure doing the same when I do mine. I believe Ian from wheel every weekend also did a gorgeous first gen that had a similar job done to it.

*EDIT* JK just the rear:

https://www.instagram.com/p/COf5kVLBboR/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...REEqekgFBBM2o-FV1EdTPnNqCWyM37GRoChU4QAvD_BwE

 

Ok... I've looked at those. I thought that would be an option.

 

I think the most difficult part is potentially having it be detachable where if you remove the side tube it won't look stupid, but I think no matter what the stand offs on the sliders is going to be really hard to make that way. I have used similar connectors on my bed rack, super into the concept.

 

keep in mind that racelines are not light at 42lbs a wheel. Both your brakes and engine are definitely gonna feel that additional rotating mass.
My f5's are a full 20lbs lighter than that.