New England Mod & Meetup Renaissance group

It won't stop it, but it'll slow it down considerably. It creeps into spaces between parts via capillary action and soaks into the surface of the metal like any other metal protectant. The advantage is that this is a natural, lanolin based oil, not a petroleum or synthetic coating.

 

Makes ya feel all warm an fuzzy inside too.

 

i think something like 303 rust converter first then coating is ideal. Steel needs to be insulated from contact to help prevent rust.

like aforementioned, I like lanolin based because it’s safe for pets. NH Oil can drip like FF. I use woolwax, same stuff as FF just thicker formula.

some people use cosmoline

 

It's a wax vs a "paint", so it doesn't "trap" moisture behind it and accelerate rust. It slows it down considerably by creating a flexible "waxy" film between the steel and moisture/air.

It's lanolin

Lanolin (from Latinlāna 'wool', and oleum 'oil'), also called wool yolk, wool wax, or wool grease, is a wax secreted by the sebaceous glands of wool-bearing animals.[1] Lanolin used by humans comes from domestic sheepbreeds that are raised specifically for their wool.

Long of the short - if it drips off into the storm drains, woods, gardens, etc - it doesn't hurt johnny polar bear.

My old neighbor did his in fluid film (same shit different toilet) (sedan, can't remember what, acura something I think) - 10 years on thing looked brand new underneath.

Eammon - What color do you use? White/clear, or dyed black? Just curious, they're both great!

(I prefer the white since it contrasts to the black so you can see where you've sprayed already)

 

I like the natural, never have used the black but for the reason you mentioned I probably never will either.

 

Does FF/ WW make your truck a mess to work on? Last year I got NH oil applied and every time I need to do the simplest job I look like a coal miner.

 

It doesn't make it not messy.

Worth it though. Also within 6-8 months it just kinda starts to dry up a bit and become "normal". I haven't had mine touched in almost 2 years and you can still feel it in places, but the "high exposure" areas it's all gone.

 

I'm going to give it a try this year instead of NH oil, maybe there will be some improvement. Either way being messy is better than rust.

 

Would you guys be ok with these numbers?


They told me my tie rods were limiting the toe adjustment. I need to adjust my spc ball joint angle in order for them to improve the caster and camber, but I dont really want to pay for another alignment right now; or do tie rods.. at least not right now.

 

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Yes, I prefer natural now over black.

I would address any rust before getting it sprayed. Sand and repaint where possible or at least spray with fluid film and that will creep into the rust. Wool wax is great but it does not creep nearly as well as fluid film.

 

My dumb ass looked at the first one and was like "Eh if that's the best they can do, I wouldn't be happy with the toe, but otherwise it'd be okay - chalk test would be a thing"

Then saw that was the before

I'd say chalk test it and if it's good enough, then it's good enough!

 

As long as you are not rubbing anywhere with your tires, I would be ok with these numbers. How are your tabs doing?

 

Caster seems low. Should be about 3.5? How does it drive and do you rub?

 

Lightly welded… tiny ass bead. Really not at all happy about that.

 

No rub. I went to the max position on the spcs to give the most clearance, but went a tad too far I guess. Before I was the complete opposite (a position on the spc chart) and definitely rubbed a bunch doing sucker pond. Thats why I pushed it the other way, albeit too much.

 

Going to try and get a similar welding treatment to my tabs after woolwax this weekend. Cutting new sister tabs and will spot weld the hell out of them to try and keep it cool.

 

Workin' with that natty ice fueled logic there I see

 

My issue is the tabs were fine before the alignment. Like brand spanking new because my lowers were siezed on from the factory alignment. They (lca cams) never budged, even with the off road bashing.

Cam tab gussets, legit ones, were on my list but never needed them, until now. And I could have had them burned on by my brother for free. Its just frustrating because I had no evidence of how they looked before they pancaked them. Then once thats done, they cant actually align the thing and im worse off than before I brought the truck in.

 

Anywhere I should FF then woolwax?

Anywhere to avoid? Other than like the exhaust lol

I could go without that smell it gives the truck for like two weeks tho

 

You know WAY too much about sheep. Just sayin...