Long Travel BS Thread

Wow that's a lot of non functional weight. I get it, but I'd want to opt for additional fuel, tools, trail spares. I bet it helps immensely with rear handling and I suppose it doesn't' change much with conditions, but that's a lot to lug around.

I'm in the middle of relocating two group 31 batteries to the rear under my cab (FJ). Only 200lbs left to add!

 

Same, I saw that and was kinda like, "well good thing I'm lugging this RTT around then!"

 

The rear kit is front Giant and it’s an SUA (64” springs) setup. Shocks are 2.5 triple bypass 16” kings. I’ll see if I can get a measurement on the shocks.

 

So long as there isn’t anything funky with the setup, that 15/08 valving should be a great starting point. With that the rebound should be close to all the way open and compression tubes somewhere in the middle to start.

 

Take some pictures and post em. That'd be real helpful for everyone here to get a better idea of what you're workin with and see any issues that may not be noticeable by your descriptions

 

What exactly are you trying to tune out of the rear?

 

How old is the leaf pack?? I think back in the day (2010) giant used the much sought after 50T leaf pack that was awesome but seemed to lose its arch rather quickly as compared to other packs. I could be wrong about this…. @MonkeyProof may know. But knowing how much up travel you have left at ride height is important.

 

What was the purpose of doing a flutter shim? As many have mentioned, the 15/8 valve code has been a good starting point for similar rear setups. Do you know where you tubes are currently set at?

Also this...

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/california-300-clean-up-by-clean-dezert-oct-8th-barstow.778840/

Any of you white fender kids looking for an excuse to shred some whoops

Come out to the clean-dezert clean up in Barstow Oct 8

The desert needs you!111111

 

Everything cycled okay when I set it up. So shouldn’t be anything weird going on.

Mine is maybe 5 years old. So I probably have the newer ones. He said they work better with weight in the back as they are a bit stiff.

Flutter was a recommendation from giant along with the weight. Since I had them apart anyway, I figured why not.

I had to leave for a work trip but I’ll try to get a measurement of the shock.

 

Can someone with a DMZ spring under it do me a favor and measure between the top of the axle and the bottom of the frame rail at ride height? Would be much appreciated.

 

Can someone please explain to me like I am 5 years old and tell me how a king lower rod end bearing is set up? My used king coilovers have a rod end bearing that is too wide to fit between my TC lower control arm tabs. Are all the bearings the same but use spacers? Can I remove the spacers?

 

you need different width spacers. Maybe even a different ID. LT kits typically use a 1.25” wide spacer for the Tacoma

 

Thats what im hunting. Any good sites to order spacers from?

 

They all use spherical bearings with snap rings just like a uniball UCA, but also have a misalignment spacer on each side that slides into the spherical bearing to allow articulation without the rod end making contact with the mount. The total assembled width should match your LCA arm tab width. They come in different lengths, so you may just need to downsize them. They’re supposed to be a precision fit, so even if they seem a hair too wide, they sometimes take a little coercion to slide them in between the mounting tabs. A digital caliper would help a lot in this scenario.

 

Kartec has them

 

Cool, thanks guys

 

if you have a TC kit you might want to ask them exactly what spacers to get because some kits don’t use equal spacers they use a larger spacer on one side to push the CO away from the axle a bit

 

Is there an easy way to remove the step spacers from the rod end bearing? Mine are pretty stuck.

 

Soak them in PBblaster or knocker loose. There is usually a small gap between the 2 spacers. Use a small punch in that small gap then hit it with a hammer.