2000 TRD OFFROAD MT (Black Betty aka Black Hole aka Tamiya Bruiser II) Rebuild Thread

That's uhm...a very unique AC setup, not to mention the sliders.

Definitely wouldn't trust those cold beads and small square tubing to hold the truck up through some gnarly stuff.

 

The AC compressor is the air compressor. The truck has the standard AC. There are some pretty extensive threads on here about the air compressor setup. I am not sure if this setup even works. I will be diving through all of that after the truck is road worthy. It would suck pretty hard if this was a garbage setup and I went through all this trouble only to scrap the system and put the battery back up front. LOL


There are quite a few supports holding that slider to the frame. I am pretty confident they will easily support the weight of the truck. I am not a floor it and hope for the best kind of driver. Slow and steady doesn't break (as much) shit. Hopefully the truck will only occasionally be "set" on the sliders.

 

Pic for ya. TBH if the slider snapped off it wouldn't hurt my feelings too bad as I was never excited that they were welded to the frame in the first place. But, I seriously doubt they are going anywhere.

 

York air compressors were cool back in the 90’s and 00’s before battery tools were good. Now you can buy a reliable 12v air compressor that will fill up 4 37’s in under 10min. However, if the current setup is working, or doesn’t need much work I’d leave it.

As mentioned, make sure to address those U-Bolts before you get it back on the road.

 

The current setup is actually not working. I am unsure what it needs to get going. I have not messed with it much. I do know the clutch is not engaging. What i believe to be the switch for it is missing a ground.

My understanding was this pully driven compressor would provide significantly more SCFM. I guess I have no data to back that up. My reference may be a post from the 90s. I have a Vivair 300P. If the pully driven AC compressor cannot match the Vivair (or even only barely exceeds it), I should definitely scrap the York and put the battery back in its original location. I will look into this. Thanks for bringing this up.

And definitely on the U bolts!

 

Was going to say, I've seen A/C compressors turned into air compressors for airing up and the use of lockers but the lines going to/from threw me off.

That thing is huge.

I don't expect you to run any air tools off of it though? I'd stick with the viair personally; mine lives in my vehicle.

 

So, quick internet search tells me the York is far superior. Sounds like air tools are usable on this setup. Mine will need some work. It did come with an airtank and everything but I think I will complete rewire it, and disassemble, clean and oil the pump before trying to turn it on. Probably throw an oil separator inline as well.



This is off my Vivair 300p box. I assume this is pretty reliable.




Pulled this off the nets. Have no idea how reliable this is but it does make some sense as the compressor is driven by a ~200hp motor. Should deliver consistent flow rates at any usable (things I would need it for) PSI. You can see the vivair loses cfm as thr pressure goes up because it is driven by a tiny motor.

There is much evidence online that the York compressor is a great air source. This is a keeper.

Battery relocation is a go!

 

No doubt the York makes an awesome compressor. Two guys in my wheeling group have them, but that’s because we are on 43” and 44” Swampers.

The question is do you need it for your uses, and how much effort/ cost to get it functional again.

 

As long as the compressor itself is not mechanically damaged the cost to get it working again should be negligible. All the stuff needed to make it work is mostly there. I'll definitely add a new pressure switch to the tank so I know it's good before I get started. Compressor will, at least, get a teardown and rebuild. I hope that main metal/rubber gasket is good. That could be the deal killer.

 

Quick update. Things have been hectic for me the past couple of weeks. I had a close friend pass away and have been dealing with the aftermath. Life goes on...

I have torn the truck down further. The rear is basically ready for blasting and paint.

A little tip for everyone, pay close attention to your initial jackstand placement if your planning on disassembling this far. I was pulling the frame crossmember that supports the rear of the fuel tank and damn near knocked the truck off of the jackstands. I did not consider how light I was making the back of the truck. Note the rear jackstands in the photo. I could lift the rear with 2 fingers.


I added some weight to the rear to help keep her stable. As I remove front end components things should even out some. Hoping to have the front mostly disassembled this weekend.

Think the bastard the did the gears used enough sealant?

I'll likely split it, clean and reseal. 4.88 gears for anyone who is curious. To get the correct ratio I had to stop one side from turning, spin the other, count the revolutions of the pinion and axle then divide by 2.

A few more pics.


Stay tuned!!! More to come!!

 

More progress? ... Feels like I fell down the rabbit hole and I bumped my head... not sure how I got here.

I got the front end torn down... mostly...


Still have to free the LCAs from the Fabtech Drop Bracket's grasp. Looks like the bottom of the DB took some pretty hard hits, to the point I am afraid the LCAs could be bent. I am really hoping this is not the issue as I have already destroyed my meager budget many times over. I have had to put a stop to spending for the time being. I have plenty of work to keep me occupied in the mean time.

This thing was an absolute beast to wrestle out by myself!


While the internals look clean and all coated in clean oil, no oil drained out when I pulled the CVs. I also did not lose any oil while wrestling the thing out of its home in the truck. I am a little concerned about the oil level. I also noted a gritty feeling when rotating the CVs while everything was still in place. This will definitely get opened up and inspected before re-installing. The 4wd did function correctly before disassembly.

Here are some shots of the carnage at the LCA DB interface.


I will get all of that straightened out and possibly reinforced before re-installing it on the truck. I have a pretty good idea for reinforcing the DB connection to the truck and increasing ground clearance as well as protecting the underside of the front end. Y'all will have to stay tuned for more on that.

A couple of shots of the carnage done by the DB installer.


More to come.

 

Nice to see you just tear into it and pull the DB kit off.

 

Ya, it feels good to have pulled it off. I was feeling pretty good this afternoon.

...

You realize the DB is going back on right?

 

I think the DBs get a bad rap around TW. For some good reasons but also for some bad reasons.

(I am not opening this up to discussion on DB vs non DB lifts!!! These are just some facts (and some opinions.) PLEASE do not give me your 2 cents on drop bracket lifts!!!! Thanks in advance!)

Advantages
-Ground clearance. I know everyone likes to say you lose ground clearance with a DB lift and you might in one specific aspect... But this is only between the front wheels. You gain clearance everywhere else.
-Better approach/departure/breakover angles. This is just another form of ground clearance.
-Abiliy to fit larger tires with less cutting. Again, ground clearance.
-Ground clearance... just had to say it agian.
-Better suspension geometry for daily driving. (Why you "lose ground clearance" with a DB lift)

Disadvantages
-Less ground clearance in between the front tires on some kits. (I think the Fabtech is guilty of this.)
-Less durable when pushed offroad (This, to me, is a major negative. I intend to somewhat remediate this with my lift.)
-Higher center of gravity. (This, IMO, is the largest drawback of doing a DB lift. I will be adding significant weight to my truck in the front down low but it will not eliminate this issue.)
-Limited choice when it comes to dampers. The Fabtech shocks designed for this kit also limit suspension travel. I will be figuring out a better damper solution for this truck down the road.



Personally, were I building this truck just how I wanted it... I would remove the DB and cut to fit the 35s. I am already sunk so far into this project on time and money that I don't think adding more work/cost to the project is a good idea... at this juncture... I also see this as a challenge, to myself, to build a functional DB lifted Tacoma.

 

I recall you stating wanting a limited budget for this thing, but you've made the mention recently that you've sunk a lot into it.

What'd you buy/replace? All I see is a Tacoma being taken apart (and I mean for good reason) but don't see anything new?

 

Can't install the new stuff until I'm done disassembling.

So, short list of what I have already ordered. I'm sure I'm forgetting things. All parts are OEM unless otherwise noted.

Fabtech Shocks Front and Rear (I wish I could return these at this point as I would go in a different direction but it has been to long since I ordered them.)

OME 2880 Springs

Dakota Digital Speedometer Calibration Module

FSM

All front end ball joints

Some T-case seals

Speedkote Epoxy Primer

Speedkote Acrylic Top Coat - Gloss black

Rough Country Axle U Bolts

Pro Comp SS Extended Brake lines

Rack & Pinion

Front and rear motor mounts

KPOffroad octagonal alignment kit

ECGS Bushing

Various Tools



Things I still need to order.

Full bushing kit

Rear wheel bearings and seals

Front wheel bearings and seals

Front diff seals (and bearings?... and...)

At least 1 universal joint

New rear drop shackles depending on truck ride height after completion

Various bolting

Various tools

100% Argon bottle

25-75 CO2 Argon bottle

AL and Steel welding wire

3/16 Sheet Steel

1/4" Sheet Aluminum

Front locker (only if my wife. Really loves me... lol JK) this probably will not happen.

All fluids: diffs, transfer, trans, motor oil, glycol, ps fluid, brake fluid...

Filters...

Tires



I am sure I am forgetting things. This should bring the truck to mechanical working condition.



In the near future

Water pump

Timing belt

...

List goes on...

 

At least maintenance is on the list; can't include welding bottles since those aren't only truck related!

Having bought the argon, what do you plan to TIG?

 

Maintenance will come with time. Truck ran well before dissasembly. I will deal with other issues after I have a solid platform to start from.

Ha Ha! Tell my wife the gas bottles arent included!

Not going to TIG. Need 100% Argon to MIG AL. I will be making the battery box and probably some bracketry out of AL.

 

Ehh if I'm doing aluminum, I prefer to run a spoolgun for thicker stuff like 1/8" or thicker.

But for small brackets and the sort I'd assume something a bit thinner, and for that I'll always go TIG instead.

 

I'll be using a spool gun and I'm going to be using 1/4" AL.