Is 1L/32oz of brake fluid enough for a full flush?

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It's a bit too much I would say, but since it's for a first Gen and maybe the first time doing it ever or in a while I think it might be just enough to get it running clear again with all the sediment and moisture inside the lines

 

That depends. When I flushed mine last week, I use almost 2 bottle. I empty the entire brake system using Mityvac pneumatic bleeder. Filled the reservoir with new fluid and continued vacuuming until I was happy with what I see. I ran DOT 4 instead of 3.

If you have abs, it might not be a good idea to bleed it dry.

 

No ABS. Any benefits to emptying and refilling, instead of just letting new fluid puah the old out?

 

I think you'd end up at the dealer if you tried to empty an ABS system. A DIY'er might be able to figure out how to cycle the ABS module, but it's not simple. Far better to just cycle plenty of new fluid in for ABS systems.

 

I like the idea of vacuuming it dry to pull any sediments and old fluid out of the system. Fill it and continued vacuuming.

 

Non abs, doing all four wheels I use a 32oz......and I end up with about 10oz left over and stick in old 12oz container for adjustments.....

I like the prestone max....supposedly lasts 10 yrs......
If you keep the air out of the left over.....its good for about 30 days.....
I even stick in the frig....

And if flushing....you can stick in either one....dot3 for dot4...obviously cant mix em....

 

Took a salsa jar and made me a little bleed kit....
two holes in lid....one with straw all way to bottom...so it cant suck back up air...

Loop of clear fish pump line looped up over wheel down into jar.......I can see the trail of bubbles.....
easy peasy......and now use that suction jar for all kinds of operations.....

 

Should be, I used 2 bottles of Royal purple pretty sure they were 16 oz. I just did the one man bleed method with a nifty bottle thing I got off Amazon. It’s basically a one man bleeder type bottle but it has a little one way check valve on it.

You attach it to the bleeder screw, crack it open, and don’t worry about it. Just pump the brakes and keep filling the master cylinder. Fluid can only go one way through the valve and into the bottle so any air or old fluid can’t go backward into the system. I changed the fluid in about 20 min once the truck was on stands and the wheels off. Easiest brake flush I’ve ever done.

$30 Allstar Performance ALL11017 Bleeder Bottle with Magnet and Check Valve , White

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL11017-Bleeder-Bottle/dp/B00F9XHVKA

 

Buy 2, take one back if you do t need it.

I needed 2, but that’s because I didn’t get the brake line tight enough on one of the rear drums the first time. Good thing I kept both bottles, huh.

 

I would get two bottles. I just gravity bleed my vehicles, whats I've had found easiest is to jack up the entire vehicle, pull all the wheels off, put a catch pan under each caliper/drum, open all four bleeder screws and just keep topping off the brake reservoir, tighten each bleeder screw when fresh fluid comes out.

 

Doesn't the fluid squirt all over the place?

 

And you want to do it quick.....less air moisture contamination in the reservoir the better....
Like I said....I even refrigerate the bottle ahead of time to make it less reactive....

Slow easy pedaling with that bleeder has made it a quick job at each wheel....

Only time I do the gravity....is when I first put a new component on.....I'll let it grav feed for a few minutes....and then fill MC and then few gentle pumps....

If you depend purely on gravity feed....may not get all the bubbles out of top of cylinder or calipher.....thats where that clear loop comes in......
I've double checked others work.....found bubbles out the ass.....

I use a little buggee cord to keep loop humped up.....

 

No, theres very little pressure, I dont touch the brake pedal when doing this or use any machines to pressure/vacuum bleed it. You just open the bleeder screw and let gravity drain the fluid, obviously make sure the reservoir doesn't get air in the system.

 

I see. I wasn't visualizing it properly before.

I'm guessing the bleeder valve closest to the master cylinder would start dripping the fresh fluid first right?

Also, is this possible to do with the wheels on?

 

I never take my wheels off.....unless already off.....

on 5 lug everything is simple to work on....

 

The pattern of furthest from master is only if there's air, if you're just flushing, you can do any pattern you'd like.

What I do is, suck reservoir to low mark, topped up.

Flush the fronts, they bleed the fastest and I can get the most fluid out.

Then rears, then back to front.

 

Possible to do with wheels on. When I gravity bleed I still attach clear tubing and drain to a regular empty water bottle. Home Depot sells the perfect size for $6 for 20 feet. Each wheel can have it's own tubing and water bottle after you hydrate yourself

 

I've tried everyway....that jar and peddle pumping was fastest, slickest way....

Using the vac pump was the worst way.....at least for me.....

 

Recall what inside diameter hose you used?