Rear bearing help.

Hey guy if i could get your input id greatly appreciated it.
Im in the process and im getting ready to press in the new bearings and the videos and articles that i read didn't really reference the bearing orientation. Or i got weird bearings. What i have and what i pulled out has a pretty significant lip on one side. The one that i pulled had the lip orientated towards the dust sheild.
I guess i just making sure beacouse it failed pretty earlier and im try to make sure its done correctly.
Pics.[
How it come out. Lip down.

Lip vs no lip.


Thanks for your help

 

The "lip" is not normal. Looks to me like the inner race of the bearing is out of alignment/offset from where it should be. At least, the bearings I've pressed out (and in) did not have such a lip at all.

Is the inner race flush with the outer race and seal on the other side of your bearings? (both on the originals and replacements)?

 

Ill put a straight edge them and see. But they do look to be . I got the set frome a reputable dealer. And its the same brand that i took out.

 

The lip looks correct, it should face the dust shield, a rubber seal goes on it for the deflector

 

It should go bearing lip faced out with the seal, behind the bearing on the flat side a spacer, then snap ring, and if you have abs or a TRD with the elocker, a tone ring and another spacer, the tone ring and spacer need to be measured to be at the correct spot. Taper on the spacer souls face towards the splines

 

This is what I followed when I did the bearings and seals on my 4Runner and it was VERY helpful: https://youtu.be/AVhSDnw2ugo

 

Interesting. Is this (lip) the difference for 01+ as compared to an 00? (which is what I'm running) I always wondered why the bearing part number was different:

• '96-'00 4Runner or Tacoma - P/N: 90363-40020-77
• '01-'02 4Runners or '01-'04 Tacoma use P/N: 90363-40068

 

Possibly, I’ve never really paid much attention. I know both my tundra and Tacoma have the lip for sure

 

Thanks everyone. Got it all put back together. My dust boot didn't want to stay on . So i guess ill see how long it last. Otherwise i only had to take it back apart once. I used timmythetoolman part 2 and his how to do drum brakes to get it all together. Hopefully it last longer that the last one did.
Thanks for all of your insights.

 

You have 01+ wheel bearings. They won't work with the older axle shafts.

Edit - Or maybe you had the wrong bearings before. Post a close up pic of the axle shafts where the bearing seats to confirm.

 

Im using my 01 shafts.

 

Then you have the right bearing with the extended inner race.

01 plus on the left, 95-00 on the right.

 

Looks like you had the wrong bearings before, so they wouldn't have seated on the axle shafts properly.

 

I didn't take a good picture. But the ones that i removed had the same lip. Wonder if there's maybe something wrong with my axle shafts.
The passenger side is still fine from the last time they were done. Which was only a thousand miles or so.

 

When you swapped the shafts the only thing that you differently is use the older bearings?

 

Ah, OK. I was under the impression your old bearings didn't have the extended inner race at all.

Correct, just the older bearings.

 

Ok, old thread revival. I have a 2000 Tacoma TRD Offroad and I am attempting to replace my rear axle bearings. The issue I am running into is this lip vs no lip. Everything I am reading says the change happened in 05/2000. Unfortunately, for me, my Taco was built in 05/2000. I want to get the one with the lip if my truck was designed to run that bearing. I understand the one without the lip should fit either way but I want the bearing my truck was designed for. Any insight? I guess I may need to pull the axle to see...

Note the production dates listed at the bottom of each photo.

 

I'd buy one of each bearing and do just one side at a time...
then exchange leftover for correct.....order thru local dealer......

watch the three timmy videos.....and flip that tapered lock ring as he suggests....

I'd be careful....I'd make sure you get right bearing for that axle....some idiot may of installed wrong bearing on your exsisting.....
does that mean the outer dust cap is different too.......

at least you've got a reference thanks to Squeaky Penguin
but those are non abs axles........
on the abs shafts.....those cir-clip slots are a lot further inboard....to make room for the time gear.....

Job is fairly easy......it just takes a small fortune in tools and parts.....would even have an extra seal on hand.....just in case something goes wrong.....

 

I have watched the timmy videos. I have to say, I am not sure I agree with his retaining ring flip trick for a couple of reasons. First, I think the retaining ring is tapered to aid with axle installation as to help not damage the seal. Putting it in backwards could actually cause damage to the seal during installation. Second, he states the issue is the axle moving latteraly enough to allow the seal to come off of the polished surface and onto the rough taper. This reasoning seems flawed to me. This movement would require significant bearing wear before being possible. Perhaps it was designed such that the seal would leak before the bearing was worn enough to allow you to lose a wheel. I will carefully examine this when I do mine.

I have the non ABS model but the locking axle still has the ports for ABS. I assume the locking axle is the same for both models?... maybe has a spacer pressed in so the seal fits appropriately.

I like the idea of sourcing the bearings locally. Luckily I do not need my truck as a daily driver... yet...

I think I am just going to pull an axle before I order bearings unless someone has something definitive.

I will report back with my findings.

 

That's what I would do