Lowered Taco? LETS SEE 'EM!

Anyone looking for a djm lowering kit? Just removed mine. Just needs new u bolts. 2005-2015. 3-4 kit. 4” blocks included just forgot in picture.

 

@prise

 

Always liked your rig Micheal. Slick

 

I can’t remove my rear notches‼️

 

The exact reason I didn’t weld it haha. After cutting out the metal and it was like nothing. I knew welding it wouldn’t matter.

 

Ive seen to many crack because the bolts don’t hold and the frame stress cracks!
I guarantee my frame is now stronger than it was from the factory! It’s also welded underneath.

 

Any one know where I can purchase a 1" drop spindle spacer ?
I have a 2009 tacoma access cab 5 lug

 

Most make them. Buy some 6061 aluminum round stock 1 1/8 or whatever diameter and have a machine shop or machinist drill out the round stock. The hardest part is going to be finding the bolts!
I lowered my front about 2 1/2 with just using DJM upper control arms and DIY coilover’s. I can’t go any lower because the 235/50-19’s rub on the top of the fender liner with big G outs.

 

changed to a 4” block in the rear. Maybe just a coincidence but now I’m getting a horrendous squealing noise that goes away when I brake, sounds like the drum brakes but not sure. Or could it be something else?

 

Picssss

 

Hmmm…
Sounds really stupid and didn’t happen with the Taco but back in High School I got a small rock between the shoes and the drum. Don’t ask me how because I have no idea! if you have a GoPro you could mount to see if something is rubbing somewhere. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. …

Also 4” blocks with stock springs? Have a notch or hitting the frame? I got like 1.25” of drop on the reg. cab with 6 lug leafs.

 

Yes stock springs, the frame is notched. Im gonna have to take the drums off to see what’s going on I think.

 

So I took truck to mechanic thinking it was my drum brakes, he said he changed two universal joints on the drive shaft, sound is gone. Was the angle of the drive shaft changed from lowering truck? He said the old universals were shot

 

At four inches that's entirely possible, my old 5 inch blocks had the corrective angle machined into them. My 3 inch blocks don't, so I'm guessing four inches is where the stress point on the angle is.

 

Dam I really hope this isn’t an issue, I like the look with the 4” blocks. They are tapered, I put the low end forward, I think that’s right.

 

That should correct your driveline angle, but fair warning you may experience axle wrap if being aggressive with the throttle. I'm about 4-4.5 inches dropped in the rear, and that's the best mix of driveability and style for me.

 

What does axle wrap feel like? The engine is stock so I’m pretty slow, but I cruise at about 80 on the highway

 

It happens at low speed hard acceleration. Namely if you drop the clutch at bit aggressively, you'll feel the back end "lurch" a couple of times or feel like it's hopping trying to get traction.

 

If your driveshaft was being pushed that far into the trans, you may need wary of the driveshaft yoke pushing in too far and causing damage to the internals of your transmission.

 

2000 Forged internals, turbo, 4.11 gears, rear sway, front QA1 coil overs, W58 trans, Cadillac front BBK, rear disk conversion, 17x9 steelies with 275/40 Toyo Proxes RR semi-slicks.. I'm sure I'm missing stuff...

I don't have these tires anymore, but I need to redo the stencil on my new tires since it got brought up at the last autocross event. lol