Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

Yeah, dealer location is important. There are a number of good tractors out there, but they didn't have dealerships in the town closest to me, and I didn't want to drive an hour or more for any kind of service or parts. Having operated a lot of different loaders/forklifts over the years. I think the loader control valve could be smoother on the Kioti and it's a little cramped. I'm Fat and 5'8", but with the seat all the way back, I do have enough room. Though, if the height were in my legs, fitting in another 8" would be a challenge. I do like where the loader stick is located, and I have a manual 12x12 shuttle shift trans, so no HST issues for me. I also didn't care for the HST rocker-style pedal on the Kabota, I find it awkward to lift my heel up for reverse. I think the sidexside pedal is a better configuration if I had gone the HST route. If your friend doesn't have one already, I'd tell him to look into getting the form-fitting rubber floor mat. My local dealer puts them on all the tractors, even base models. I operate mine wearing Crocs all the time. The mat is thick and would go a long way toward insulating him from the heat of the HST filter.

 

How thick is the steel plate you used to mount the hooks? I've got 1/4" and 3/16" steel plates, but I'm not sure which I should use.

 

I’d go 1/4”. I used 5/16”.

 

I put the old tractors to work for a bit yesterday. Pulled a couple dead alder trees up out of the forest so I could buck them up into firewood.



I tried removing the blade that came with the B5100 only to find that the lift arms are essentially rusted to the pins on the blade. Any suggestions? I even tried spreading the arms apart with hilift without success.

 

Can't be stuck if it's a liquid...

 

I'm sure you tried to loosen the chain check bolts next to the lift arms, you know the ones that keep the impliment from swaying back and forth. You can try heating them up or spray penetrating oil on the pins.
Good luck

 

Here ya go a copyof my manual page 32

 

Check that the chain checks have sufficient slack as Tiedie said above. ^^^

If they are actually rusted in place, wire brush all the rust you can off of the pins and spray generously with some PB Blaster, you can leave it sitting with just a bit of tension from the hi lift jack on it (don't go overboard ), tap the assembly with a hammer occasionally and respray.

 

^^^What he said^^^

PB Blaster, and a big hammer.

 

With the jack giving pressure you don't need to hit it hard.
The vibrations help break the rust bond which helps the penetrant to make further inroads in the joint.
Soak, tap, jack, wait - repeat - usually gets the job done.

 

Forget the PB Blaster, it's merely WD40 with a different smell. Find some Free All or Kroil. A 50/50 mix of acetone and Valvoline transmission fluid mix also does quite well...

 

I keep a can of WD around for battery terminals and goo remover, PB is my usual removal aid choice.
Kroil and Free All aren't common to find around here it seems.

 

I've found Free All at Advance Auto of all places... Kroil is pretty hard to find and needs mail ordered lots of time. Reminds me I'm out and need to get some more...

I typically break out the smoke wrench at work. Most of my co-workers are scared of it, but it's my favourite tool. I can cut off a stuck inner bearing race off a shaft without damaging it most times. Co-workers think I'm a Wizard

 

You do have the beard and like to go barefoot...

 

I... I... uhhh... yea I got nothing for that one...

 

I do...




and

 

Vinegar also works for removing rust. but might be difficult to apply in this application.

 

Vinegar is good on french fries too.

 

Looking for recommendations for a generator to run the kitchen refrigerator, and maybe a space heater.