NEW 6MT Clutch Pedal Squeak/Creak Noise Revised TSB (T-SB-0112-19)

Mine squeaked for the first couple of months and then it went away. That was almost 6 years ago so I haven't paid much attention to it since

 

The pedal itself was replaced, the pedal pad wasn't.

Jeff

 

Go figure - I would have thought it would be all one piece. I did see some goo from what looked like a removed sticker on the arm. Just assumed that was from the factory.

 

Got the tsb for my clutch but the damn noise came back and it is very pronounced in the California heat. I remember reading elsewhere that some grease makes the noise go away. (Dealer put up a fight to do the tsb and succumbed when i involved Toyota corporate.) Anyone experienced the noise /squeak after getting tsb done?

 

I had the "complete" TSB performed which included the small hydraulic cylinder and pedal assembly with special grease. 2nd time around I believe everything was actually replaced. 30k miles, 18 months no noise. This pedal assembly should be made of metal with a sealed bearing at the pivot point. Come on Toyota!

 

I agree. I didn't realize how bad it was until I had a notchy feeling pedal the other week. I look down there and it's all plastic... I'm hoping some grease saves me from having to deal with this shit but honestly it's disappointing that they even designed it this way to begin with.

 

My 2017 now has 96,500 miles on it and the last 5k miles or so, the noise has gotten significantly worse. Before it was just here and there squeaking. Now it’s every time I’m in the truck.
I have not tried greasing anything yet but I’ve threatened to.
Will Toyota not do anything this still? I know there’s a tsb but with this many miles on the truck I know I’d never get it done without paying out of pocket

 

It's worth a try. IMO they should fix the mess they've created.

 

Has the TSB been updated to cover newer model years? Or anyone got it covered on their 2020+?

I had a 2019 Sport with the squeaky clutch pedal and got this TSB done and it worked pretty well (mostly went away), but I ended up trading that in for my 2020 OR. The squeak has gotten too bad in the 2020 one too now so I'm bringing it in and hoping to have the TSB done on it as well. Would be nice to bring in the TSB paperwork to show them, but I'm afraid they'll point at the fact that it only says through 2019 on the TSB and say I'm not covered. Hoping there is a newer or updated TSB which includes 2020+ than the one on the first page of this thread.

 

I just reviewed this entire thread and I also just finished inspecting and lubricating the pedal assembly. A couple of points you need to be aware of.

To do the job properly, the pedal assy has to come out. Spraying lubricants and dabbing grease with a q-tip may quiet the turn-over spring but does nothing for the pivot bushings. In fact, these two bushing part numbers aren't even mentioned in the TSB, yet are critical wear points. I also noted that the scanned repair orders do not list these bushings and Toyota is notorious for dinging you for every nut, screw, and grommet. Unless you have a really savvy parts person, chances are, they are neglected during the ordering process and the tech reuses the old ones performing the TSB. I've worked as a parts person for decades at truck dealerships and believe it or not, this is typical. They should be included in the Required tools and materials listing in the TSB.

To update the pedal or service it properly, it has to come out of the pedal assembly framework. Make sure you already have the pivot bushings from the dealer. This is where the tech will apply the grease(s) which restores the proper pedal "feel". It is not a simple job as it involves removal of several components. If your going to attempt this, recommend you download the 2016 FSM from this website for specs and diagrams. It will apply to all later models for thsi repair. Recommend you disconnect the battery first. Here's a list;

Remove drivers kick panel, LH side of pedal - one black plastic cap-nut, pop up the sill plate fwd end, pop out the panel - 2 clips, work it towards you.

Remove lower dash panel below steering wheel - two 10mm screws at bottom, one 10mm bolt LH side. The rest is just clips, work the panel off carefully towards you, using both hands. Disconnect all the electrical switches (don't have to mark them. All different profiles). Pop the hood release out of the panel and disconnect the cable - the lead crimp can be worked out of the handle.

There is a harness junction base approx 2-1/2" X 8" mounted vertically. Remove the two bolts and just move it over a little. I didn't bother but its recommended.

Under the hood, drain the brake fluid reservoir. Suction or siphon. Place rags/spill pad under the junction at firewall. An angled 10mm tubing wrench and needle-nose pliers to disconnect the flexible hose and hydraulic line to the slave cylinder. Use care when working off the flexible hose to catch the brake fluid - about 2oz will leak out.

Disconnect the two electrical connections off the clutch pedal assy. The upper one can be reach through the opening created by the panel removal. Remove the 2 - 12mm nuts and 12mm bolt. Take the pedal assy to the bench.

In order to separate the two metal brackets at the pedal pivot to either replace the new pedal or simply service it, you have to release the nut and bolt. Before you do this, mark the two pieces with a permanent marker to index the alignment. Because once you release the nut, the two pieces will "scissor" open due to spring pressure. Now you can replace the pedal, bushings, and grease the unit. Toyota calls out two types of grease - Body grease "W", and Multi-purpose chassis grease (pg 4 of the TSB). This product is readily available and meets both requirements;

https://www.super-lube.com/multi-purpose-synthetic-grease-with-syncolon-ptfe-21030

After you have applied grease per the TSB, and reassembled to components, it can be a bit tricky re-aligning the index marks of the two frame pieces. You have to place the turnover spring into position as per the diagrams, then pull the top section towards you to "cam over" the spring into its recess. Holding the two pieces with your marks aligned, tighten the bolt/nut firmly enough to hold it in place. Another pair of hands will help. You will do the final torque of this bolt (25 ft-lbs) once the assembly is bolted and torqued to the firewall.

Once you have completed the service following the TSB steps, reverse the procedure to install. Torque the mounting nuts to 10 ft-lbs, and bolt to 13 ft-lbs, then torque the pivot bolt nut. You may have to use different extensions to do this. I used a 12" to get my torque wrench beneath the brake pedal to do this. The reason you do this last is to allow the two pedal frame pieces to move to get their natural alignment.

Reverse all the steps, and then comes the final step. You have to bleed the clutch hydraulics, which includes taking off that damn heat shield over the slave. The upper rear bolt of the shield turns this into a sh*t-show thanks to that exhaust support bracket but it has to be done.

When I took my pedal apart, everything was pristine except the plastic bushings inside the pivots and the white plastic piece at the end of the spring. They had brown discoloration and the pivot bushings had wear. If you want a buttery smooth clutch, this pivot bushings are the focus, not the spring.

 

@Sport3 what was your time involved start to finish & the TSB book time ?

 

The time on the TSB is listed as 1.2 hours. If you worked at a dealership and did a half-dozen of these, you might get it done in 2 hours. If you cut corners, maybe a bit less. That doesn't include bleeding the system. I spent far more time as I insulated the heat shield with rubber spacers which I had to fabricate plus longer bolts.

 

As far as time, I had the TSB done on my 2019 Sport a while back and it took them basically the entire day. I just had them do the same on my 2020 OR (was getting squeaky already and I knew it would get worse once winter cold hit, so I had it done while still in warranty) on Friday and it took about 1/2 a day.


Question though:

When I got it back and drove it home initially the clutch pedal was a bit stiff, but I chalked that up to new parts and figured it would improve. Then the next day I went to drive it somewhere and the clutch pedal felt more soft and squishy, almost loose, but it was still working. As I drove it around a bit it improved, but I swear it still feels softer/looser than before. Is there an adjustment they could have messed up or fluids/grease? Wondering if I should get it back in or if the newer parts are just like that. Luckily I got the extended platinum warranty so I can always bring it back in for up to 8 yrs, but still would like this sorted out and not sure if I'm remembering wrong (or just feels softer now because it was initially stiff) or if it is really supposed to be like that.

Anyone had the TSB done and had that happen?

 

So this is a TSB that's been known and revised since 2005... I have a 2009 that I don't believe has ever had any of these done... so would I be out of pocket for this or would dealer cover it?

 

See the Warranty section of the TSB. If you are outside of that range, it is a pay for service.

 

My 2021 has been creaking all summer. The TSB is not being applied to anything after 2020. After getting jerked around by the dumbass service rep at my local dealer, I finally got them to have the foreman look at it and he diagnosed the issue as the ball joint between the pedal and cylinder.

Funny, my first assumption was something in the linkage. Since it only happened when hot out I assumed some grease was running thin somewhere. No they said, its the master cylinder on these they said. All their "master techs" came back with "could not reproduce" when I dropped it off, lol liars. I came back when it was really bad and made them record a video on their phone and send it to me from their work email. Next appt was when the foreman inspected it, that wasn't a coincidence.

After all that, they don't stock the grease cause it's that mythical "body grease", so I had to come back yet again a week later. Turns out that's just moly wheel bearing grease, available at any autoparts store. Lol Toyota dealers don't stock grease, I'm so naive!

If you have a 21 or newer, skip the dealer and pay a good local shop to put some "fancy" wheel bearing grease on the ball joint between the linkage and master cylinder. Clutch feels brand new again. I'd have gladly paid a couple hundred for "parts" and labor if I knew the headache I was in for at the dealer. Fool me once...

 

I can confirm I had this done on my 2019 Sport and it helped a lot, but I traded that in for a 2020 OR. My 2020 clutch pedal was starting to squeak/creak too and was especially bad in the winter (for me anyway seems worse in the colder weather, but still quite noticeable in summer too) so I brought it in. He looked at the TSB but said it only applied to 2019s and below, but since 2020 is exactly the same parts from factory and since I was still in the factory warranty, that he'd just order the parts from the TSB and do it the same way. So I got my 2020 done under warranty/TSB and no creaking for now. We'll see if it comes back after a while. All that to say, even if you have a newer than 2019, you might be able to get them to apply the TSB for free if you still have the factory warranty.

 

Sounds like you have a reasonable dealer over there, and maybe I don't haha. If the issue comes back for you, hopefully it's just the ball joint needing some bearing grease!

 

Thanks mine squeaks

 

Well that really socks for those of us outside of the 3yr/36k mile warranty since this is effective to a trucks for a span of 18 years... really making me regret this whole pay it off and drive it til the wheel bearings come off notion that toyota usedto be known for...