TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Hasn’t killed my battery yet, but it’s real annoying when it is cycling on and off every ~47 minutes at night when camping.

 

I can’t remember which circuit it is off the top of my head, but I ended up running the power to the same ignition switched circuit that the fog-light-anytime mod uses. No more random emissions power cycle going on when the truck is off

 

I got it from justin thanks guys.

 

The only problem with the kill switch is you can't be forgetting to make sure it's on when running.

I did the ignition controlled relay and don't regret it. Easy enough to do and beats having the SAI randomly turning the pump on whenever it wants.

 

i think this may be the same circuit I tapped into… I remember it tapping into a relay

 

cool, thanks. I will definitely keep you posted.

No, I'm Auto (with IPT shift kit) and tow package. Stock cooling on both motor and trans, other than a 160 T-Stat. Started really seeing it after the added weight of the rear bumper and camper this summer. Couple weeks ago going up a few mountain passes it got up to 220ish... then did it again this weekend after some driving then sitting in In n Out drive thru. Parked it in the backyard and drove the Mini.. Going to start looking into it this week.

Upgraded Rads and or an E-Fan setup(as a helper/pusher maybe) have been on the list. Guess its time.

 

What's the purpose of it cycling when the truck is turned off? I mentioned this on the Tundra s/c thread and apparently the Maggy doesn't do that on the Tundra's. They had questions

 

No requirement for it to cycle when truck is turned off.

Reason it does is because IGN fuse on our Tacomas (that the SC directions instruct to wire pump to) receives power every so often when the truck is off for emissions purposes iirc which in turn powers the intercooler pump.

 

Evap canister.

 

So just add a relay triggered by ignition like @TodayWasTHeDaY said and good to go.

 

Which ignition controlled circuit are you guys tapping into? My worry with the toggle is if it fails( they arent exactly high quality these days)& driving around with the coolant pump off . By the time it started overheating the engine would it already be too late for the supercharger?

 

I think the coolant pump circulates coolant through the heat exchanger to cool down the charge air. Self contained system.

If the coolant pump was faulty or off, it won't overheat the engine nor supercharger. Performance might be affected because IAT will be high, but it should run safe/ok....just not ideal/optimal.

 

You run a higher risk of knock and detonation w/o the intercooler pump. That can lead to terminal engine damage. @Torspd and I looked for other power sources but didn't find any worth the work. Just leave it be and pack ear plugs I guess.

 

Especially when Mexico.

 

This is where I have mine tapped into


You can get a better idea of where the power is coming from from @nd4spdbh picture, where I circled


That’s what I’ve used reliably with no issues and no random cycling when truck is off.

Here’s @nd4spdbh original thread with some more detail about what’s what

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...no-splicing-no-bending-100-reversible.309407/

 

I go to Japan alot

 

Ahh yes so would def add a larger cooler for the trans. Same situation as me. I added a derale with a fan. Desert mashing it would get hot then cool down quick so far it’s been great. I am considering going slightly larger but so far so good. Now it’s more about when I stop my engine goes to 210+ and A/C dies off. I I’ve a CAF as well no t stat changes. I do have the 160 I was going to add and the DEP E fan setup that has been on the back burner. I just ordered Louvres to help as well.

I would go in this order

1. Upgraded Trans cooler. Fan is optional but so far so good
2. One of the upgraded Rads
3. See if E Fan makes sense

 

Yeah.. I noticed a change in A/C in the drive thru, looked down and saw the temp creeping up. I'll definitely be doing a larger Trans cooler and adding a fan for it.. it gets stupid hot, enough to feel in the cab around the tunnel. I may try to add some heat reflective tape in areas as well. I'll probably just upgrade both Rad and Trans cooler at the same time and also add the Trans cooler E fan with it, then yeah, see if I can get another one in there afterwards. I still need to check fan clutch and some other things as well. I just stuffed it in the back and havent checked anything yet.

Was there a Mishimoto Rad option I saw posted a while back? Is the bee's knee's still Ron Davis?

 

With that being said, those in the market for a cooler 160* F thermostat will be pleased to know that Mishimoto offers a direct bolt on housing/ T- stat combination unit for the 4Runner for racing, towing, and heavy duty applications around some $66 on their website. No adapter plate required.

https://www.mishimoto.com/toyota-4runner-2003-low-temp-thermostat.html

Recently @Torspd has found an available thermostat from AutoZone under the brand Duralast which is actually a rebranded Motorad 160 thermostat.

https://m.autozone.com/cooling-heat.../duralast-kit-water-outlet/577311_656099_1640

 

Nice that's the T-Stat I picked up.