1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

I bet hes gunna make me go over and install it lol

 

So just to state what I’m doing with it, I’m completely not using it for it’s intended purpose as a built-in kitchen appliance. I’m installing wheels on it, cutting out the middle of the oven, and making a giant super oven to use for powdercoating engine parts to aid in my Datsun restoration.

That being said, the 240v outlet I wish to use is literally on the same wall as the service panel (the panel is on the outside, and outlet is on the inside. The 10ga Romex between the two is probably 3-5 feet long maybe even less)

And no I’d probably only be using it 30 minutes to an hour at a time just to cure the powder coat.

Here is a converted one

 

Really took the time to get shit lined up, notched and fitted. And switched to a new kind of wire...

 

More specifically, how far from the OCP (circuit breaker) to the end use device (range itself)?

 

Everything at home is in conduit. Solid is fine on home. I just don’t like Romex.

 

I’d say the built in lead/pigtail on the oven is 5 feet long, and I’d put a NEMA 50a plug on the end of it to plug into the wall. So if I had to combine the oven pigtail, plus the wiring/Romex in the wall, it’s about 10 feet from the oven to the breaker.

 

You're likely good to go with the current set up at that distance and usage (will double check the code tomorrow). You can change the plug/receptacle as you want since the OCP is protecting the wire (i.e. 30A breaker is protecting the 10awg wire), but know that you can't practically utilize the 50A plug/receptacle as only 30A will be available at any given time.

 

Let’s say I wanted to upgrade the existing 30A outlet to a 50A one. Ideally I’d like to do this since it can allow our electric car to charge at a faster rate. Could I swap the 30a breaker to a 50a breaker?

This is the only 240 outlet in our garage. We use it for EV charging, my MIG welder, and also this oven application I’m trying out.

You’ve been very helpful. Thank you again.

 

You would have to run new wire if you want increased ampacity. The breaker is there to make sure that you don't run too much current through the wire itself. If you up the breaker size, you have to up the wire size. If you really want a 50A circuit, I'd look at going 6awg wire to ensure the most versatile end use.

 

Understood. I’ll leave it alone then.

As long as I can run the oven off that 30A circuit I’m happy. I’ll be okay wiring it to a 10-30R plug, even though it doesn’t have a neutral? The oven, as it was installed, just tied the ground and neutral together.

I can convert it to a more modern 30A plug with a neutral need be. Like I said the neutral wire is just chilling capped inside the junction box. I had the sparky run this obsolete plug because it’s what my air compressor called for, since it was widely used in 1999 when it was manufactured.

 

10-30r is phase/phase/neutral (x->black, y->red, w->white). R means receptacle, P means plug.

 

Ah okay.

So in this case, I’m tying the bare copper ground to the neutral when I wire it on the plug at (W) since there is no separate print for earth.

 

What is on the wall (receptacle)? If you already have a 10-30r, it should be wired with 2 hots and a neutral. Match this on the range (plug) side as well, leaving the ground and neutral bonded inside the range itself if that's how you found it.

*edit - do you have a picture of where the conductors land in the unit? Might make sense to convert to a different plug/receptacle to utilize the equipment grounding conductor, but hard to say without more specifics (i.e. installation manual).

 

It’s a 10-30R on the wall, yes.

The oven has four wires coming out of it, the two hots, copper earth, and a neutral. The earth and neutral are bonded together so I’ll wire it as I found it.

Probably an odd question but why would there be 220v and 240v standards? I’m not entirely sure if my outlet does the full 240v or if it’s 220v. I ask because I ran the kW rating through a calculator, and if I only had 220v I’d be pulling 32 amps on the circuit over 30 amps if it were 240v.

 

What do you mean by "bonded"? The whip has them wire nutted together? Twisted pair?

Also, do you have a multimeter? Measure phase-phase and see what you get (at the receptacle on the wall). Even if you get 220V (i.e. 32A at conversion), the breaker can take short overcurrents. The heating element usually heats up, then pauses, then heats. It will rarely ever take a full 32A on a continuous basis. You are likely right on the edge and may experience nuisance trips in certain cases, but should have a safe install as the breaker is still protecting the wire.

 

This is what I mean. The kitchen from which I took this oven from was built a long time ago, and didn’t have a ground in the wall. So they tied/bonded ground and neutral together on the oven.



Thanks for the info on the voltage differences. That makes a lot of sense. I’ll go measure it.

 

Initial reaction without additional information, I would change the plug/receptacle type to include a ground (i.e. 2 hots, a neutral and a ground).

*edit - I would actually look at how that whip attaches inside the range and rewire it from scratch to get rid of that flex all together and use SO cord to a plug.

 

fab skillz

 

So like a NEMA 14-30?

 

@BartMaster1234

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