Show off your aux fuse panels.

This may be a dumb question -

I see that everyone is protecting their Aux panel with Circuit breakers. Why?

Is it because there is a risk the combined circuits in the panel can pull more than the panel is rated for? Is pulling more than 100 amps really a realistic risk for most people?

 

For me its two reasons. I am not an electrician or electrical anything, so I separate all of my stuff from the stock tacoma wiring with a breaker that is properly sized for the feed wires. This will cover me if something between the breaker and the panel gets chafed and shorts out to ground and will protect it if the combined load on the panel is over ~100 amps the wire can handle.

The benefit I use more often is I can turn everything off that I have done to work on it. Obviously you need to pay attention to what you are doing when you do this because most things still have power.

 

Is there any other risk I am missing?

If the connection to the box is short and I have no chance of hitting 100 amps can I safely remove the breaker?

 

In my not qualified opinion I would be comfortable running without it, especially if you size your fuses properly there shouldn't be an issue.

 

1 reason for me is that it's a great way to quickly disconnect power when I want to service that general circuit and install a new item without worrying about a short circuit accident.

 

Thanks for mansplaining to me what a circuit breaker is

I was asking if I am overlooking any risks by removing a commonly used one.

 

If you went and read my actual question you can see I already know what you are telling me.

Unless someone calls me out for something I am not understanding I am going to accept the risk of not installing a breaker before my aux fuse box because:

1: The run of cable to the box is super short (minimal short risk)
2: I am confident my accessories are not going exceed the panel rating
3: I don't care about turning it all off

 

You don't need a breaker. I only did mine because I ran a 10AWG wire to the bed for a second fuse block and that is a long run. I actually have three fuse blocks behind that breaker. The ability to shut off everything at the flip of a switch is dammed convenient...

 

A short circuit causes a dramatic surge of current. Breakers and fuses exist to protect wires from burning and causing fires when their current rating is exceeded. You may be confident your accessories won't exceed the panel rating, can you be that confident you won't have a short? If so have at it. I err on the side of caution because breakers are cheap and my truck is not.

 

Keep giving solid advice like that and you'll be accused of womansplaining

 

There's being helpful and then there's being condescending and I'm going to call somebody out for being condescending.

 

Fully explaining something doesn't make that explanation condescending. You're just being way too sensitive

 

Ripped out my old budget aux panel and I went with a Bussmann and designed/printed the panel for it. The goal was to minimized the size and to keep things clean.

I also integrated a mount for my clutch fluid reservoir. Since that was in the way.

 

Very nice work!

 

I used to build police cars, utility fire trucks, and "amber" work trucks, so when I say what I am about to say, it is from experience and education.

ALWAYS have a main circuit breaker or fuse.

Now, if you are only installing one item, lets say a set of lights, then the inline fuse will indeed qualify as this.

If you are installing multiple fused items, then the rule typically suggested for 12v applications is to fuse/protect at 110% of the load.

If your lights run at 9 amps, a 10 amp fuse will work.
If the CB runs at 12.5 amps, it probably came with a 15 amp fuse, your main fuse or CB could be at 25 amps since the makers of your items have already accounted for the 10%, but most installers are going to go to a 30amp setup.

Typically, the rule is that the main CB or fuse be within 18 WIRE INCHES of the battery, so that anyone can easily follow the wire coming off the positive of the battery and find the CB/fuse.

One thing that we did where I worked which was not correct (the sign says "my way or the highway" and I must admit that the highway has been quite nice the past couple months...) was EVERY build got a 125amp CB, even if it was only spec'd at 50amps... every component was fused on it's own though as well.

So, do you "need" a master CB or fuse..? Nope.

But as others have mentioned, it makes it very nice to be able to shut everything down for troubleshooting, repairs, battery saving should an issue arise, or when you take the vehicle in for service (my favorite since the idiots liked to play with my siren while my Ram was in for service...)

 

Thanks!

 

What kind and size/thickness metal are you guys using to make the Trays?

And how are you bending them??


I snagged some aluminum pieces but I don’t have a vice big enough to bend it without making a mess.
Those power trays are a bit expensive.

I’m less adventurous on this and got a voswitch, but still need to mount that.

 

I often used 1/4” ABS sheets, cut as needed, and then apply heat to bend.

 

I use street signs and get creative on bending.

 

Those must be a pita to bend!
I’m guessing you have to pound the hell out of it.