TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Hey boys posting here before it goes to everyone.

-URD torque u heavy flywheel with Arp bolts. $200 plus shipping……regularly $399 just for the flywheel.

-HPS heater hoses (red) $70 plus shipping…….regularly $129

-Oem radiator approximately 30k miles I’d say. $50 plus shipping

-Oem valve covers. I originally got them from a member to powder coat and replace mine, but never did. $75 plus shipping.

-Subaru MAF, used for a couple months maybe less. $25 plus shipping.

 

stock gearing i believe is a major consideration. im 35s and 4:10. wish i had 430 or 456. stress on all makes heat. better gears may be the win.
im running about 300lbs of cargo with no armor. if i had heavy skids it would be less fun.

 

probably tape on. i was liking mustang carbon units as they had nice quality look or something from a toyota 86 to try and keep it in the family.

 

Yah you can see clip like parts on the underside that would press and clip prob smart to tape too.

what position would you guys use? Towards the top or lower? Seems to be good to go closer to the front but also e gone is a bit farther back. Picture seems farther back but del in person it was closer to the front.

 

No doubt… funny you mention that - my 4.56 gears and front locker showed up today

Also, that was kinda my point. On 35’s with factory gearing, stock radiator and factory exhaust manifolds I had no consistent issues with overheating.

Now with the headers even with the upgraded Mishimoto rad, it’ll overheat when idling for extended periods albeit in hot weather. Which I do an excessive amount of, whether it’s sitting/crawling along on a trail or keeping the AC going in the truck for my dog while I’m running errands/eating etc. on trips…

Determining a solution isnt a priority for me right this second but I have removed the weather stripping at the base of the hood to see if that allows some of that heat to escape

So far I’ve come to three potential options to mitigate issue… first being to remove headers and install factory exhaust manifolds (which I’m not crazy about), second would be to install hood louvers (I think this would help tremendously), third, figure out a way to move air through the engine bay during idle… not necessarily through the radiator, but like keeping consistent airflow around the engine/over the headers…

 

personally I’d go farther back (second pic) bc that’s closer to where the headers are plus it’s higher up on the hood which should allow more heat to escape imo

 

Those with heat issues, do you also have full belly skids that are retaining heat?

 

I do have ifs/trans skids, also aftermarket fender covers which seal more than oem too. I think I am going to either remove them or maybe drill some holes to let some air flow come out of there.

 

I do have full skids but my sides have no covers so that is open, also recently switched to a hybrid setup and in the front which is more open. The skids were never an issue before. Issues starting happening after S/C, Aftermarket Radiator (Part of me wonders if this is part of the issue).

I am on stock manifolds and exhaust. one of my big items so not sure if that help all that much @Gilmorec61 I have the issues with any aftermarket but do plan on adding it.

 

I was thinking that but also was reading up and note that you want to get it closer to the front (this may depend on the car) if its too far back it actually does the opposite and traps the air. I cant recall where I saw that but it has me second guessing where. The Seibon Carbon TS hood seems to have them right in the middle. I need to see where I read closer is better but honestly not sure if that was car specific I was reading.

 

Something I just realized and my thought for not thinking more about it. Positioning the Louvres may also run into the bracing in the hood. What area is a no fly zone in terms of cutting. I may have to move them more in or out. Ill take a look next couple of days but may need to re think the size. Did not consider the we bracing/webbing.

 

headers probably emit more heat being single wall.
saw someone here that went through the back wall to the wiper cavity for an air intake. maybe that would help?? small 12v fan on the opening with a switch educting heat?

 

The other thing I've been wanting to do is install the rubber rad inlet channeling guides like on my 4runner.

 

The re-gearing definitely does help.. and why I'm thinking of going from my 4.56's to 4.88's now.. I'd prefer not to as we do drive this thing to other states for trips and long distance highway cruising would not be fun I'd imagine. BUT.. might take some stress/heat out of the equation. I dont have any of the wheel well/splash guards installed. This is also why I want just a helper/pusher fan up front somewhere.. I imagine it can only help when sitting still.

@Gilmorec61 I think we are set up very similarly.. I'm thinking louvers might be in the cards as well. Also going to try some heat wrap and reflective tape in areas. I'm definitely not going to remove anything, so I will go down the path of remedies.

I do have full skids, and even though they cover the belly, there is inherently some gapping around the frame, etc for airflow. I'm sure they impact it somewhat regardless though.

 

Any experience with taking a supercharger off and swapping it back? I have a Magnuson on my '19 and am considering going back to stock. If anyone is interested, let me know

 

Hmm I didn’t think about that but could see that being an issue - I assume at speed though correct?? My main purpose for installing them would be during idle which is why I would want them higher up since I don’t have issues when driving

 

Hmmmmm

 

Yeah that’s why I went with 4.56 over 4.88 for the long distance stuff. I personally don’t think the bump from 4.56 to 4.88 would solve the problem but that’s my limited experience talking…

I do think the helper/pusher fan could help

Def interested to see what we all come up with

 

Stupid question - have y’all checked your rads to make sure they aren’t clogged with mud?

In the past if I had overheating issues stopped or driving, that was the cause and a thorough clean (removing fan shroud and hitting from backside with low pressure spray) fixed that issue. Had mud/dust all up in that B…

 

Sounds like you need some wrap, and www.heatshieldproducts.com