Long Travel BS Thread

I mean they will be quite for the 5 min after you grease all the bushings than….squeak city….lol

 

My jd fab kit is dead silent after 2 years. Those seals they made for the uniballs work amazing.

 

Lol the only thing that makes noise on mine is the damn leaf bushings. They didn't take long to start singing to me.

 

Most noise I get in the rear is a slight creak in hard turns when the body rolls. Otherwise it's quiet. My stock front end creaks on everything because my cams move with every hard bump.

Now my deavers are all rusty now. Whatever coating they had on them has flaked off. I need to pull them and paint them.

 

Use white lithium grease. That’s what I use and they haven’t squeaked for like 6 months. I do need replace that double uniball though.

 

Really need a crawling BS thread, but I’m studying up on the antirock sway bars. How do you determine what length arms to go with? I need the front to work as much as the rear, but don’t want to end up over powering it. How do I find a balance?

 

I went with a TK1 rear sway bar. Here’s an excerpt from their website:
“The arm length should be at least as long as the shock travel if possible. End links generally need to be at least as long as the travel of the shock or longer. “

https://store.tk1racing.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=56

you can call Tony and discuss your application. He can point you to the best diameter. If you go too large of diameter, they can be turned down to reduce rate.

 

Very cool, I will check them out. For width do you just go with the widest that will fit? Seems like the wider you go more stable it would be.

 

My width was determined by frame geometry and clearance to reservoirs. I would imagine that would be the same in your case as well. I ended up with a 55” KOH bar and 16.50” arms on my FJ, although I’m looking to lengthen the arms to 18”. I haven’t gotten it back on the road yet to comment on it yet.

 

Good deal. How do you determine what height to mount everything? Like should the bar be parallel at ride height or stuffed?

 

You should read through the listings on the TK1 website, preferably from a PC as the mobile site doesn’t play nice with the text. It talks about how you set up your travel, ie more droop than compression or evenly split. You definitely do not want the bars and end link’s aligning linear when fully drooped out. The linkage will bind and you will have damage. I have a lot of droop on the rear so mine are angled up at ride height to compensate.

 

Yeah the mobile site is really bad. I’ll read more and probably reach out to them when it’s time. I’ve got 16” coilovers mounted to the axle and am paranoid about losing any travel, but it flexes out way too soon right now and the front needs to pick up some of the work. All the flex doesn’t mean anything if it’s doo doo traction.

 

lol I was thinking the same thing. Talking about bump stop spacers get the people going

 

What if you don't have any bumps? Asking for a friend.

 

as long as arm dont bind and cv dont bind carry on lol.

 

On the rear.

 

Who needs bumpstops when you can just valve your shocks stiffer to never bottom out

 

Hey everyone, I had i question I hope it can be answered here. I’m a long time lurker but with so many pages it’s hard to keep up. I could t find an answer so I figured I’d post here. I have a 2008 fj with a Baja kits+2 kit. I’m currently on king 2.5 extended travel. I want to upgrade to 2.5x8” coilovers but everywhere I look has a long wait list. I found some off the shelf fox 2.5 8” 983‑06‑102 for a good price. I wanted to know if anyone can help me pick what lower rod end and lower coil spacer I can get away with. I was going to buy and send them out to dialed shock prep for a revalve and to switch rod ends but I’m not too sure what lengths I need. Im also buying the dirt king top shock bolt on mount. I’ll attach a few pics. Thanks

 

I’m running the DK spec fox coilovers on my +2 setup. Works very well. Very happy with the ride.

 

Shock companies have had a backlog for a few years now...

Fox are typically a little longer than King specs to begin with and that shock comes with a 2" eyelet. You will likely have clearance issues with the CVs with that shock & eyelet combo. Do you know the ideal extended & collapsed lengths that Baja Kits requires? You may also want to look further into the hose routing that you'll need. The hose on PN 983-06-102 comes straight out of the body cap and won't clear the upper arm in standard configuration.