Long Travel BS Thread

This is what I came up with when I removed coilover and cycled Suspension. I do want to remove the oem bump stops and add a air bump in the future and hopefully gain another inch of uptravel. I’m only going 33s on tire size. For the hose I was going to have whoever was revalving my shocks add a 90 on hose and match my current hose size so I can mount it on the same resi bracket.

 

We have a set of our Long Travel Spec coilovers on our clearance section, you can checkout directly through the website. And if your interested send me a PM with pricing on upgrading your LT kit as well

https://dirtkingfabrication.com/col...ucts/clearance-long-travel-spec-fox-coilovers

 

Damn thats a good deal for in stock. Love mine.

 

Also includes resi and coil bucket shock mounts!

 

Sending pm thanks!

 

I need some SUA advice. My original plans would be the usual Deaver/Archive/12” King setup. After pricing that out it’s pretty much a wash with a JD SUA kit. Now my truck is rather heavy with the usual “overland” junk thrown on. Is SUA not for me? Or can it work with anyone’s truck?

 

If you like to carry a lot of gear I would say no. I have the JD fab SUA with Deaver HD's and a light camper & rear bumper and I feel like I am on the verge enough that I will probably ditch the camper... It rides awesome and I can probably carry another 250lbs no problem but sua really is not designed to carry a big load. If you do decide to run it and run with a lighter load I can highly recommend this kit. It rides super smooth and it pulls the same travel numbers as it's competitor's without taking up bed space & not having anchors hanging off the back of the truck as well. Honestly this is probably the best thought out SUA kit on the market if you want to keep your bed intact and still get a true long travel rear suspension nothing comes close.

 

I have a set of 539/540s I can sell you and possibly some archive mounts if I can clean them up well enough.

 

Its a hot topic and the response varies by who you talk to. The general consensus is that SUA is not great at handling heavier loads, especially when you’ve got a more “overland” build with a camper. Typically, an SOA setup with a shock relocation is what you’d see on similar setups but I know others have gone the SUA route.

 

Someone say real lt without going into the bed?

 

Cantilever kit ain’t nothing new.

 

finished drawing up my rear 3 link, I decided to switch link designs because I’m no longer wanting bypasses, cause they won’t fit without going super wide. And I don’t wanna run super big wheel spacers on my long travel kit up front. Cycles 24” metal to metal with a 16” stroke shock.

 

1. if you are moving your gas tank why would you do a 3 link ?

2. bypasses will fit

3. you better box in that oe cross member a lot more where your third connects it will break…ask me how i know

4. wait…if your moving you tank why are you keeping that stock cross member ?

5. your third has way too much angle to it, the end at the axle needs a raised mount. if the third is not close to flat at ride height you will have 2” of side to side movement

 

Let me back it up a bit and ask. I am correct in thinking that even a simple MT in the front will "outrun" a SOA setup right? Like going fast down a fire road to get to camp.

 

I’m not moving the gas tank for quite some time, and when I do I’ll cut that cross member out and replace it with a tube one for my upper links. The panhard bar is flat at ride height, hence why the frame side is so long. You can’t raise it because it will hit the bottom of the bed or the frame. My frame is notched two inches and I’m not looking to change that back. A 37” tire or bigger is not possible to fit a bypass unless you either put the shocks in the cab, make the axle 3” wider per side or re route the frame. But I’m talking about full articulation.

Also there is a tube that goes from the back of the cross member to the frame at an angle. So all 1/4” plate right there and the frame is boxed already, I think it will be fine.

 

I second that the panhard bar really needs to be closer to level at mid travel or ride height. I raised my panhard bar on the axle to reduce how far the bar pulled the axle passengers side under full droop.

Speaking of droop. You definitely want to check how much plunge you are expecting on the drive shaft and plan accordingly.

 

That’s a good point, I was planning on running ruffstuffs new 9” housing so I’ll get a new driveshaft made anyways with bigger joints. Mines f’d

also the panhard is level at ride height which is sitting at 50/50 wheel travel so not too much movement. It’s also the longest I could make it. It’s 40” long.

 

Oh I know. Just people seem to forget about it when not wanting to go through the bed

 

Are you asking if a basic mid travel setup can outperform a well built soa setup?

 

I guess? When it’s put that way it definitely sounds like it wouldn’t.