09 DCSB 3link

What length shocks did you run on this? Getting ready for my sas with an 80 fzj80 axle and looking for about the same ride height and length

 

I used 14”

 

Gotcha thanks. Do you know how far forward the front wheels moved to from stock?

 

Every setup will be different

 

I moved the axle forward 2” but every setup will be different. If you are using the exact same components throughout you could get away with it but using different knuckles or steering arms or link brackets will change the whole thing. Just lots of thinking and planning. Then tack everything and cycling and adjusting.

 

Thanks. Im actually using an fzj80 elocker front end and keeping the radius arms for now. All of my mounts are arriving now so its getting real and fingers crossed I actually get to drive it out of the shop at the end of 9 days ha. Going to do myself a favor and relocate the radiator and condenser to the bed to allow for the axle to be moved as far forward as possible.
Truck got cut off and fubar'd but i bought it back from insurance. Gonny be my buggy sooner than later now.

 

If it's going to be a buggy, why not get a 1t axle that can withstand the abuse? Plus will the shop be rotating the ball, flipping the housing to the driver side, and extending it to match the second gen track width? Why relocate the radiator and condenser to the rear if you're running radius arm and not a true link setup? I know plenty of second gen guys that kept the cooling system in the orginal location with 1t and 3 link and have massive droop and wheel tuck while extending their wb 5 to 6 inches overall. I would understand if you're running a v8 and have no room to stuff everything in the engine bay.

Since your plan is to move your axle that much farther, have you consider parts placement such as radius arm, coils, steering, etc? Will you be extending your frame for the steer box or will you be running full hydro? Lots of questions and hope you already found all the answers you're looking for prior to starting your project. You can't compare 3 link to a radius arm. Don't go in blind and hoping for good result, that's not a good starting point.

9 days turn around? Good luck with that. Not saying it's not possible but that shop must have a lot of helping hands and knowledgeable workers working in different area to get it complete in that short amount of time. Cutting and prepping the frame takes a day or two if not more already.

 

Not doing 1tons because i see plenty of nearly stock 80 axles running 37s and 40s just fine and i dont plan to be rock bouncing.

Im keeping it passenger side drop and trying to move the axle as far forward as i can to try and avoid having to clearance the offset oil pan sump. Doing this i don't believe the radiator will allow the steering box to move forward enough to clear in its factory location.
The steering box will be as far forward as it can go without extending the frame rail.
The plan is to either coilover or ori shocks to eliminate the coil spring buckets.
I don't need to extend the housings as the tacomas are 65in compared to 63.5in plus i will be putting the matching 9.5 locking rear axle to this hp front locking axle as well. I can compensate with deeper dish wheels or spacers if i need the extra stability.

And nope the shop is my buddies but its just me doing the swap.

 

I am also trying to keep this from sitting 8 to 9 feet tall at ride height. So i will either clearance the steel sump section of the pan for the pinion or shove the axle forward enough. I am keeping the passenger side drop as i am doubling 2 rf1a gear drives. Eventually the goal is 40s, 5.29s, and regearing the gear drives both to 4.7 low ratios compared to the 2.28 stock low ratios.

What can i say i like being different

 

If i have room after this bit of surgery i plan to send the axle off for trussing, radius arm flip and straightening, but i don't quite have the$2k to get that done before the sas

 

Well no turning back now. Hoping to have the mounts and everything tacked in by tuesday so i can articulate it and see what binds

 

Could you do me a favor by chance? Can you get a measurement from the ground to your bumper bolts or that crossmember under the radiator by chance? Setting mine up and it just seems like it needs to sit really high.

 

Really like how your truck turned out. How much uptravel do you have and did you see any way to gain more? Maybe full hydro would offer a little more clearance?

 

You can't compare 3 link with 14" coilovers to radius arm and coils. They're 2 completely different suspension with different mounting location etc. Plus tire size will change ride height. There's so many factory that come to play.

 

I am aware of this just looking to see what his final ride height was and his opinion on it. But thanks

 

I’ll get it in the morning. If I Moved my motor mounts higher to raise my engine up that would’ve given me more room so the panhard wouldn’t smack into the engine block. That would’ve been nice so I could’ve gotten a little more uptravel without increasing the front end ride height. I have 3 up 10 ish down. At full stuff it eats a little shaft so I left 1” shaft showing at a flat full bump. With 3” uptravel it is a little bumpy but I don’t give a shit. It’s a truck. It doesn’t have much body roll at all so it can corner well going fast.

 

Thanks. 3” up. Moving the motor mounts upwards and raising the engine would give more uptravel. I didn’t want to fuck with all that crap. The issue is with the panhard bar and how close it is to the engine block. Hydro would be cool to get rid of the drag link and steering box, pitman arm space issues but I drive my truck on long distance trips so I went hydro assist.

 

That makes sense. Do you think full hydro could have given you a little more uptravel or is it possible to go forward any more?

 

With full hydro you could move the whole axle forward and get farther up to clear the block where it tapers upwards a bit. Maybe 4 link it and move forward. No more panhard but you’d still have the 4link bracket right under the block.