What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

On my 2013 regular cab, I replaced the exhaust pipe with the resonator and catalytic converter and both O2 sensors because the converter was broken inside and rattling. Easy enough job.

 

I think I have figured it out. I found this hose was disconnected while looking around the engine bay. I’m not sure what it is however I pushed it back down on the post (or whatever the correct term is). I then cleared the code and have driven it for 2 days, 100+ miles, and the check engine light has not come back on.

 

Made some more progress with my 3rd gen fiberglass conversion lol

 

Hell yeah dude! That could be definitely causing the issue you were having. Cheers!

 

I am looking to Fluid Film my frame and everything else metal underneath. This is my first time doing this. For you guys out there that Fluid Film regularly, are there any tips or tricks you could share. Is there anything underneath I should not spray?

Also, about how many cans should I start with? Based on some of what I've seen it looks like 6 cans might do it.

 

I woolwax my truck but I have a compressor, so I'm using a spray gun and canisters. I use about 3/4-1 canister on the bottom of the truck running around 75psi. The only things you want to avoid spraying are directly onto electronics (in the engine bay) and brakes, otherwise go wild, it's just lanolin grease.

 

Thanks. Do you put your truck up on jack stands or is it easy enough to get everything without them?

 

My ‘07 has had a nasty habit of snapping hardware lately, and I attempted a fix on my taillight housing.


Testing out this product; it’s basically glue in play-dough form.

I was impatient and didn’t want to wait the hours of set time with the taillight dangling so I tightened it back into place to set. I’ll check it again this weekend and let it cure in place dangling down before tightening first, if needed.

 

The lift on my truck runs about 1.5" on 265/75 R16s - I can shimmy around everywhere I need to be, but again, since I use the spray gun I also have a couple of attachment hoses that makes life infinitely easier when you're spraying inside tube metal. So you might need more clearance with the cans since I think you'll lack a 360* spray tip.

Illustrative purposes for the clearance that is enough for me.

 

Anyone have experience with this company / this type of headlight?

https://www.protuninglab.com/hid-2lhp-tac06jm-rs.html

 

Good point with the spray cans. I have stock suspension so getting it up on jack stands is probably the best option for me right now. Thanks for the help. Assuming it stops raining here in NJ, this will be my weekend project.

 

Unhooked the dtrl and added Diode Dynamics Smart Flasher in preparation of headlight swap since TSB headlights are no longer available. My original headlights are just now starting to melt. Went ahead and added LED turn signal bulbs as precaution from Diode Dynamics as well.

 

Changed my oil, filter and emptied my catch can. And cleaned the dust off of it cause I need something not covered in dust under the hood.
O and I fixed my non working locker finally. The clip that holds it on has been broken since I bought the thing but it still works most of the time. The one time I needed it in Wyoming this summer it wasn't working of course. I just unplugged it and plugged it back in and it works. For how long we will see...

 

I like the stance on that! What’s the suspension setup?

 

Well it’s not done YET but my new caliper pins arrived so I can FINALLY change my brake pads even if I have to destroy the old pins getting them out (got 2 of 4 pins to wiggle but mushroomed them pretty badly). New calipers will be needed eventually but at least I can have pads with some meat on em. These pads have 63k on them, roughly, since I bought the truck. No idea if they were changed before that.

Also put in an order on the ECGS bushing because, while I’m still stock height, I have a slow pulsing front vibration at 50 mph, that didn’t go away when I did wheel hubs and new rotors. Betting that after 119k miles, the stock needle bearing is toast

Side note: the OEM brake pads I got have letters on them. A, B, and C. It looks like I have two of the same letter and one of each other letter. Iirc I have 1 A, 1 B and 2 C? Why would this be?

 

Where did you purchase the new unit from?

 

Bilstein 5100s front and back, old man emu 884 front springs, general springs HD leaf packs.

 

Nice lookin single cab, Jim!

 

Thanks man

 

No problem! I’m working on my 2012 single cab, trying to catch up on maintenance. 119k miles on her. Just did both hubs, gonna do an ecgs bushing soon (should’ve done it with the hubs…oops). Considering replacing the rusted- off brake dust shield on the drivers side while I’m in there. Eventually maybe a small front lift (under 2”) and sumo springs or a block or aal in the rear. I’d like another half inch of rake and she sags when loaded so may do like an inch rear and half inch to 1 inch front. Trying to keep her reliable and sturdy enough to take a beating but not destroy resale value and add vibrations (like a higher lift would likely do). She’s got 4 leaf take-offs from an access cab, bilstein rear shocks, some LED tails/reverse bulbs/flush mounted pods. Led bar in the bumper. Light side tint and dark rear. Touchscreen with Apple CarPlay, stuff like that. Trying to keep it a clean, updated, oem+ type look