Long Travel BS Thread

Deaver will 100% make you a custom pack. So the people saying no, aren’t correct. You absolutely can. It’s all about the correct spring rate. Get a weight on your rear axle and give Deaver a shout.

 

A solid MT front will absolutely run laps around a solid MT SOA rear.

I have a super solid MT truck and a Full on JD build sitting in my driveway now. They are in totally different worlds. Not even comprehensible how vastly different they are.

You can chase your tail all you want trying to make SOA work good, but it’s not going to happen. Ever. But once you go SUA your rear is 100% going to shit all over your front.

 

a decked out soa could work well with a coilover + uca up front. Like bypasses, custom leaf pack, shackle flip, frame boxing. It'd be a band aid over going with a better setup from the start, and definitely wouldn't hang with anything special in the front but you're really downplaying soa. Especially if the guy isn't gonna be doing mostly go fast offroading. Lot's more east coast guys that have decently balanced suspension with less than that and it's fine on and off pavement outside constant big whoops and fast stuff

 

I don’t know a lot of people with an Overland build who drive hard enough, especially on fire roads, to outperform a properly laid out SOA and MT front but there are sever limitations. How much do you want to spend and how much time do you want to invest?

 

My rear is still spring over, and is as dialed as its probably gonna get. Cant keep up with the front +2.25 JD kit. I run out of up travel quickly. If I go air bumps, could probably eek out a little more up travel maybe...
I'd like to go spring under. Again, need custom springs.
However, for my needs and what I do. Being able to cruise 30-35mph through light whoops and still crawl when needed. Its working out. If I wanted to keep up with @snowsk8air2 I'd definitively have to go spring under; plus more.
My trucks a heavy bitch. But even if I took the GFC off, and took out all my gear. I'd still be 6k.

 

For those of you that hacked up your fiberglass. How floppy did it get once you cut the bottom lip off?

I have plenty of experience cutting sheet metal but never fiberglass. So I know what to expect if I was cutting metal. Fiberglass no clue.

I got some new tires and I need to trim my fenders. I’m debating on just trimming the bottom (which would look odd) or just evenly cutting along the fender line. I’ll leave about 1/4” or so of the vertical piece but the rest of it and the horizontal piece will be gone.

Here’s a pic of what I am talking about.

 

It honestly sounds like a fun project to me. The truck won’t be my daily in a few months so I won’t be rushed to do anything. Regardless of what I do, I will be slimming my truck down some. Going aluminum where I can and just taking useless stuff off.

 

Although I agree with this without definition of goals you really dont know what a win is. I originally built my truck as very capable MT and SOA that worked very well. I have since rebuilt it SUA and "LT" that does very well. Both times had different goals in mind. The mid travel build was a more capable rock/trail truck that did good occasionally hit the dunes. Where as my current setup is a is a more capable dune truck that does good on the occasional rock/ trail.

I guess what I am saying is that looking back I wish I would have built a totally different truck (even than it is now). Leaf Springs builds are full of compromise but the journey and testing has been fun along the way.

 

Fiberglass the piece you cut off to the backside of the fender. You may have to cut it into sections and add material but it will be way stiffer. I did this on my McNeil's and they are like they came from the factory. You will have to test fit it as mine contacted part of the front fender cowl but cleared after some trimming. I also used this lip to mount fender liners to the fender side so I don't get a bunch of crap up in my door area... Any way some pics below

Cut section

re-glassed


Finished with inner lip

Fender well front door jamb area

 

Did you model your frame? Or is there a link to download??
Im gonna keep going on the watts link, have plans to scan my frame sometime this winter.

 

It’s a 3rd gen frame but most things are the same. I downloaded it from 3dcadbrowser.com

 

thats fair. As long as you’re aware of the project you’re getting into. It’s nice if you can do the work yourself but would hurt a little more if you had to pay someone to install.

 

That’s a good idea. Initially I was thinking if it’s too floppy I’d glue some bent aluminum strips on the back. Might try this instead.

 

Starting the back half, like it so far.

 

Lol

 

Idea stolen from Pirate. I think it would be kind of fun to build one from scratch. Extra humor factor using tractor top links haha Need to see how long the xterra torsion bar is, but I bet this would work.

edit: torsion bar is 34” long but can’t verify the diameter. I’m assuming it’s 7/8” like the 80’s Toyotas. This may actually work. Debating what to use for arms now. I’m going to pull the top link off my tractor and see how much articulation it has, but I’m pretty sure it won’t be an issue.

 

Badass. Hopefully it works

 

Not sure who this guy is (in Carlsbad CA) but wow what a truck

 

That is sweet.

 

What kind of valving is everybody running on their LT setups front and rear? Mostly just a question based on curiosity more than anything. Obviously it varies from truck to truck. Personally Im 15/12 front and 12/10 rear. +4 front JD SUA rear with H70hd's