Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro

Back when I was in Seattle I felt like there wasn't a huge difference around town (it was my daily and commuted into Seattle), but it was definitely struggling a little more on the interstate at 75-80 mph (like driving Seattle to Portland or Eugene). Mountain passes are rooough.

On I90 through Snoqualmie and out to Eastern WA I used to be able to do 80 pretty comfortably. Now I keep it at 70-75 and on the hills I sometimes struggle to do 65. I just drove from Seattle to Colorado Springs a few weeks ago and it was certainly not as fast as when I did it stock in 2020, no more passing semis or other cars at 75 on hills. Heading out of Salt Lake City on I80 there were a few hills I had the pedal on the floor the entire time just to do 60.

If you live somewhere pretty flat and/or aren't planning to road trip through hilly areas often it'll perform fairly similar to stock. Even if you are somewhere hilly or want to do long road trips just know you're gonna be slower. If you can't make peace with that, don't do it lol.

Oh also, I don't have the lightest wheel/tire combo, so if you optimized that you might be better off. I just really liked the TRD Sport rims and I got C load 285/75/17s off my partner's Jeep. Next time I'll probably be looking for a lighter tire and probably do a tall skinny 33.

 

All the sites I can find info on suggest curb weights of the following and 280 lbs with most if not all that being at the front axle.
4,145 lbs. for 4.0 L gen2 DCSB 4x4,
4,425 lbs. for 3.5 L gen3 DCSB 4x4 OR

https://www.edmunds.com/toyota/tacoma/2008/features-specs/
https://www.edmunds.com/toyota/tacoma/2018/features-specs/

 

Interesting find. I'm curious on the 4 banger stats

 

Good looks. Yea I wanted to build her out for self reliance and longer overland trips. The lighter the better for sure. I was thinking softopper to cage rack with an rtt ontop build out the bed to hold essentials and a fridge. Was also planning on regearing as I hear that makes a world of difference and saves your Trans

 

Re-gearing the Four cylinder, while beneficial when up-sizing tires, isn't quite as dramatic an improvement as the V6's. The I4 has a 4.30 final drive, while the V6 get 3.90.

The biggest issue with Pizza cutter tires is that they're pretty much exclusively E-loads.

 

Thanks for the heads up @Snaeper ! Hadn't actually looked into specs or anything yet

@Fishingeek603 I've been thinking about regearing too. I know it won't be as dramatic of a difference as on a v6, but even a little improvement would be nice. I forgot to mention that I did that SEA-COS drive with like 400-500lbs of stuff in the truck.

 

is everyone replacing the needle bearing when using the FCP? I'm going to pull the trigger soon and curious if I needed to do that while everything is in pieces.

 

It’s hit or miss with any lift. I did mine when I installed the lift.I figured I’m already there doing things so why not.

 

That’s what I’m thinking as well

 

It took a few months but Ironman is finally sending me out a replacement set of leaf springs. I'm getting the constant leafs this time around and am curious if anyone installed them without removing any leafs. How much lift did it give? And if you did remove leafs, which ones?

I've got 700lbs+ of constant weight in the rear

 

I've been looking for that. I saw reference to that half a month ago and since had not been able to find the details.

 

well of course im going up to 17's wrapped in some skinny tires. 4.88 is more than 4.30.... I'm considering turboing it at some point in the not so distant future as well. some boys have done some awesome vdery capable 4 banger builds lol

 

Forgive the noob question. Lots on info to weed through. Looking for some guidance on which springs to go with for the front FCP shocks. Currently have the Relentless slim winch bumper with winch, sliders, and aluminum skids. Thanks in advance.

 

Personally, I’d probably still say the lower rated ones, the A at 720# I think the 820# are too much and (having no real knowledge or understanding) probably for the other vehicles that they fit. They only say they for the Tacoma now so I’m not sure if anything besides the part number changed.

It is really though to say though. You’re best bet might be to call and ask them.

if you go with the smaller and end up wanting the higher rate, I’ll sell you the Bs for really cheap and shipping… they have 5-8k miles on them.

 

I agree with @hyrule_trd Get the 720# springs. I had the constant load springs thinking I'd need them but even with all my weight, they were still a bit much. I have a full plate steel bumper with loops, winch, steel skids, cab rack, rock sliders. All this weight barely dropped the front.

 

Who has installed the constant load leaf pack without removing a leaf?

 

I got mine installed 2 weeks ago. cfp stage 2 2.5 inch lift in heavy load front and performance rear. But its sagging real bad. I only get 21.5 to center hub to fender. Just noticed that coil seat height is 8.2 and 8.4... what should I tell them to adjust seat height to? I'm new to this.... I need some help....

 

Great looking truck!

It depends how much you want. I can’t say I remember what they normally set them at but maybe ask to go up .25” to start. That’ll give you roughly 1/2 more lift.

 

If they have the actual ironman adjustment tool then its pretty easy to spray wd40 on the threads and crank it up while the shocks are still on the truck. Its such a beefy tool.

I have bent other tools before (toytec!) and i have used punches for other shocks like fox 2.5. But man i love their tool.

 

Did anyone actually cycle the rear shocks 2-3 times prior to install? The rear feels super bouncy. Like the shocks are not dampening at all.