It's a bizarre case they said... Updated: here we go again.

Dealership shouldn't have been on the hook for so much as a penny, so I'm pleased.
Forwarded the email to the stereo shop to see their response, but $300 bucks is chump change in the grand scheme of things.

 

I'm a technical guy, I want details! Internal failure of the remote starter that shorted the burned wire to ground? Screw through the harness? Wires spliced incorrectly? We may never know but inquiring minds want to know.

 

Also want details.
(Why was it that the burnt wire wasn't mitigated by a fuse blowing? Failures and short circuits WILL happen and need protective features, what was the cause of the installation or the installed components that cause that failure to cause scorched wires.)

 

I had asked for a picture of the offending item, they didn't take one I guess. I'll see how they wrote it up, I'll post it also, but it might take a day...need to arrange a ride to drop off Mom's car and then get me to the dealership.
I work 12-hour nights, so time might not be my friend today.
I'll also post stereo-guy's response when I get it.

 

Stereo-guy's response:

They are full of shit there is no way it caused it please ask in detail how it caused it

 

Scorched wires are signs of a dead short. I bet it’s not the alarm itself, but the installl.

 

Had to be the install. My question is why did they have to splice into the wire harness in the first place? They DO have remote starts that plug right into the factory wire harness. No wires have to be cut to install it.

 

It's just cheap inferior crap.

 

This thread was fascinating. I read all OP posts from the start just now.

 

It definitely had to be.

 

Fuses are intended for short circuit protection only.

 

It only took a year and a half, but we have a winner!!!!!

 

Actually overloaded circuits.

 

The fuses aren't intended for overload protection. The time-current curve of automotive fuses typically allow for around 110% of current rating for a near indefinite period of time. The circuits are not intended to be changed, so overload protection isn't really a concern or typically required. One of the many reasons why aftermarket electrical can be such an issue.

A mini automotive thermal circuit breaker is used if overload protection is required, fuel pumps in some cases.

 

Truck back in my hands...who's happier than me?...
Dealership said that they know stereo-guys aren't buying it, and have invited them to talk to their tech to get the detailed breakdown of what was what, the report doesn't go into any detail. Service writer did say that he could tell that whoever did the installation took pride in their work and that it was one of the better installations he'd seen, but that doesn't negate what happened.
Me, being me, couldn't resist asking how long I have to wait to put another remote starter in the thing...just to get a reaction.

 

Dick move.

 

Man look, if you do get another remote start after this, please get one that PLUGS into the harness, not one that has to be spliced in. There's plenty like that on the market.
Do it right or don't do it.

 

Would you happen to know of such an item that works with a manual transmission?
I don't need a remote start...but it's kind of nice to have, I definitely can't risk a repeat of this last little wiring adventure.
Poking around on the net looking, nothing really jumping out at me yet.

Maybe this one is an option: https://www.n2designsinc.com/produc...a-plug-and-play-remote-start-kit-h-key-manual

 

I've heard good things about n2, so I'd say that if you're gonna get one, this would be it.

 

I installed my N2 back in 2018 I think and there was only one splice - something to do with disabling or circumventing the TPMS circuit while the truck is in "reservations mode" and ready to remote start. I remember that was specific to the manual transmission. Other than that it was plug-and-play. Not sure if it's the same these days but I'd buy it again if I ended up in a new truck