What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

So I finally had a chance to track down the culprit. In my case it wasn’t the scotch lock I used to tap but rather the wires that entered the connector on the passenger side. They were just long enough and loose enough that the glove box was hitting them, causing the intermittent operation. I had to reroute a few things and added a zip tie to improve the strain relief, and so far, so good…

 

This rusted/broken brace topic seems to keep popping up here lately: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rusted-out-bracket-on-bed.778507/#post-27834194

As was mentioned in the link(s), w/o soaking those rusty bolts well in advance I'm not surprised they snapped on you.

 

Update as promised.
The good: My brake pedal is FIRM for the first time in years.
The bad: I have a shudder while braking. Worsens when the rotors are hot, lessens after letting them cool. Will re mount the tire being careful not to overtighten the lugs tomorrow. If that doesn’t help I’ll clean the rotor surface as I definitely got some shit on it.

Also have some slight brake drag from the stuck caliper now that it has a pad with more meat on it. Will see what happens tomorrow, may have to throw the old one back in on that side and see if that stops the shudder as well.

 

Mine actually came with the base knob too. This is an OEM black and silver knob that I bought from a guy with a TRD Sport. I saw this in a few photos of peoples trucks and thought the same thing as you. I put a WTB listing in the market place with a photo and some guy came along and had a take off from his truck and sold it to me for like 20 or 30 bucks.

 

Damn thing still works after 10 or 12 years. I love it

 

I bought the parts for the conversion but never got around to doing the install. Maybe after the Winter.

 

That was my post I totally missed those responses to me which if I saw them would of saved alot of head ache

 

@Black Bean Taco if you had oil or something on the rotor, and installed pads, you now have oil on those pads buddy..and your shudder is I would guess coming from the pulsing of your rotors as you have one stuck piston, and quite possibly a warped rotor due to the stuck piston. I feel your chasing yourself in circles, you need new calipers, rotors and pads...all at once to fix it. Just my 2 cents..

 

Just to cross check, what else would I need in regards to brake lines or shims for a lift kit?

Only see dirt once or twice a year, mostly road miles, and frequent towing. Going for the capable mall crawler. I've gotten my money out of the stock suspension for 160k. My back says it's time for an upgrade. I have a Double cab with a topper with air bags I would like to keep for towing.

Kit in question would be a 5100 shock set with 884 coils for the front. AAL for the rear. Upper control arms. Daystar cradles to keep the air bags.

What else do I need to get her back on the road in a weekend ya'll?

 

Good wash. Hopefully do power steering this Monday.

 

In the process of replacing the driveshaft/exhaust. Took this weekend off "to rest"

 

I put mine here.

 

Mbrp.
At the helm bed stiffeners.
Ditched the tailgate.
Trimmed rear lower fiberglass to match mazulla bumper.

 

New shoes

 

I want shiny exhaust

 

$442 MagnaFlow 17115 Large Stainless Steel Performance Exhaust System Kit

MagnaFlow 17115; I just noticed yours is pretty much the same setup but MBRP


I'm done with it, wow, I got rid of every single vibration on the damn truck

 

Was that an oem driveshaft?

 

Made myself a couple grab handles. Basic idea 100% stolen from uptop overland. Nowhere even close to how stylish theirs is, but it'll do the trick.
I ordered flat bar aluminum and some aluminum spacers. Drilled out a bunch of holes in the bar, ground the corners round and used the spacers as risers. Ordered the actual handles online. I had some paracord lying around (im not sold on the red, and I may change it out for all black) and used some steel cable as reinforcement since i dont trust weather beaten paracord. I used primer, rubber undercoat and spray paint so the finish is kinda ugly but should hold up.

 

Yup. Mine is a PreRunner; Tom Woods don't make a 1pc for the 2wd folks.

 

Swapped in an FJ clutch pedal & master cylinder, and while I was at it figured I'd remove the clutch "accumulator" (restriction valve?)

TIL, my clutch actually has an engagement point, not just an engagement blaaaargg... ah, there it is. Now I'm curious if actually knowing where the clutch engages might help make backing a trailer less clutch-burny... now that I finally installed the 2LO box I've had laying around for almost 2 years.

Also, I think that was the least worst clutch hydraulic system I've ever bled.