What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Just put a pry bar in the CV grooves on the tulip side and whack it with a mallet, looks seated though, they're not always perfect. you won't be able to pull it out by hand if it's in tho

 

Yep, rear wheels absolutely need their center piece.

Thanks, still more to go once I'm satisfied the driver's side CV is good to go.

Just went back out there and gave it multiple whacks with the mallet and small prybar. Didn't move and sounded solid. Still going to put it on stands tomorrow and pull the wheel. I'll be able to get the larger prybar in there but more importantly better leverage. I'm sure its just my OCD, that gap is bothering me. Passenger side is flush with the diff tube. I'm betting I'll end up busting the knuckle free from the CV so I can pull it and fix that boot. lol

Even more OCD amusing is the pair of ADD CVs I have sitting here have those Porsche boots. I wonder if I should just swap them in. Not even sure if they would fit the smaller manual CVs. Will have to check part#s to see if there is a difference.

Nope, different part numbers between ADD & Manual.

 

That looks 100% seated to me. It won't be flush. There will be a gap like that with a little in/out play, perfectly normal.


I would not bother with a diff drop. It just slightly tilts the diff a bit, doesn't really drop it. I noticed no difference after doing mine a few years ago. Little hard to tell with the pics but I don't think I see much boot rubbing. What OME springs are you running?

That crunched boot just looks like you pinched it when handling it, it'll pop out.

 

Continuing to look at it, have to agree with you and Zane. Its seated, there is just very slight play in/out of the diff so will run it. If its going to leak, I'll know when I fill it - right?

OME springs are 881s. I didn't do any kind of measurement but I don't really see a difference with the diff+CVs added weight. I just wrapped up the ARB and its also back on the truck but it seems fine. Didn't really want to run the diff drop either - too many mixed opinions on here. Will skip it.

Quick pics that are a little better of the outboard boots.

Driver side -




Really do need to get this project wrapped up, this thing needs a driveshaft attached to it. I actually was planning on saving the front end for last and get the transmission/transfer case swapped in first. Bugging the hell out of me so just did the front end anyway since everything was ready. Plan for tomorrow is to replace the transmission strainer and FIPG that thing so its also ready to go. After that is done, its time to start unbolting this 2WD transmission and wrap this thing up. Oh and I was able to pop that boot back into shape lol.

 

Looks fine. If the c-clip didn't pop you would be an inch from the diff and know it didn't seat. What you're seeing is completely normal. Throw the stinky juice in the diff and put the shaft in and you'll be good.

 

lol "the stinky juice"... is it bad if ya actually get used to it and then miss the smell of it? After having the transfer case ripped completely apart and working on it for what seemed forever, I got used to the smell of the damn thing.

 

That and warm coolant, no amount of Stockholm syndrome will make those smells ok for me.

 

Hi everyone!!

I'm going to get my Saturday project day rolling.

I have some headlights retrofits to install and a arb bumper to pick up and install.

Bought some fluid film for the bumper.

Any advice for each item?

Next week I gotta install my cab mounts as well.

 

UBJs removed

 

2 day shipping from General Springs!

 

To cap or not to cap... that is the question.

Also, filled the diff and nothing came pouring out so thx again to all those who said it looked fine. Front end is now complete, going to swap the A340F strainer out for a new one (those 1999 cork/rubber seals around the openings are crap) and seal it back up. Nearly done, just dreading the actual transmission pull/install.

 

Drove to a localish hot rod chassis mfr who mandrel bends frames out of one length of tube to get some rear frame rails made. Sending them the stock frame measurements tonight so they can bend it up. Excited to hack off the rusting and bent rear end of this truck in a month or so.

 

New dremel did the trick.

 

Cap IMO. Looks cleaner.

 

Been messing around with my radios. I added a 100W linear to the CB and double checked the SWR on the GMRS radio.

 

It is always very satisfying when you hear the 'crack' once you have cut enough.

 

Made up some new hard lines for the rear axle

 

I am liking it with the cap.

The end is in sight. It shouldn't be too bad once you get going. Great work so far, time to wrap it up.

 

Thanks. Hopefully, right? Swapped out the old strainer with a new one and I remembered that gunny sent me a rubber/cork whatever its made out of gasket for the 340F. Still looks solid even though its been sitting for a few years. Its OEM toyota, wonder if I should use it instead of the FIPG.