The question: to be or not to be? In this case, toyota or not?

I have a 2006, 4cyl, 237k miles, 5 speed manual tacoma.
Last week I performed a full fluid change in the truck.
I am a very picky person wen it comes to cars.
I pay too much attention to noises and performance.
So a few days ago I started noticing a very minor noise, its like or i am under the impression that might be a lifter noise but so hard to hear that can only be noticed wen the truck is accelerated and wen it’s slowing down after acceleration and the sound appears for a very small time, and sometimes wen driving but its so minimum that gets confusing.
the check engine light came on, i took the car to Autozone and the code is replace the knocking sensor.
My Mechanich said not to pay attention to that, noise in a 237k engine is normal, not a loud noise.
He reset the light. A couple days ago it came back, not sure but wen its on, I have the impression the noise is a bit louder.
Tryck runs perfect, no misfire, no smoke, no nothing. Just the noise.
So i decided to change the sensor, now question:
Toyota $209after discount shop price.
ot carparts $27?
Huge difference

 

What was the actual code?

 

Knock Sensor codes usually pulls timing and in a lot of cases puts the truck in a fail safe mode. It may run ok. But it won’t run to its full potential. I’d fix the issue.

 

Yes, i am going to replace it. Question is:
Should i try carparts $27 or toyota $209?
The idea is to determine if its a faulty sensor wich appears to be, or there is another reason the sensor is being triggered, hopefully not.

 

I'm no expert but generally Toyota OEM parts are pretty good quality and in many cases better than aftermarket

 

I would spend the extra for the Toyota parts.

 

The Toyota part lasted 237k miles, or 16 years. You're taking chances with the aftermarket part. Not sure how hard it is to do on the 4 cyl, but on the 6, I'd be buying the Toyota part - buy once, cry once, done once.

 

OEM once and done.
Aftermarket ? who knows.
Who is going to do the swap?
Are you planning on keeping the truck for another 237K?

With my truck it would be OEM, but I've got 106,000 and I'm keeping her forever!

 

*When*

 

I agree. I alwabuy original partsX no doubt its the best thing to do. My dilema is how to determine if its a faulty sensor? Before spending the big bucks on a 209 sensor.

 

A good start would be pulling the codes and checking there - if it's a code for a knock sensor, that's one thing (I don't know if these trucks have specific codes for knock sensor faults), but if it's something else you might be spending time and money to fix something that isn't the issue.

 

I have to find a better computer than the one from auto-zone.

 

are you changing it yourself? If not then the mechanic should be able to diagnose.

 

Ok, so, my mechanic is one of those guys that is a great mechanic, but a bit laid back. He used his computer, reset the code and told me, go home don’t pay attention. Its so minimum the rattling that is kind of normal on a 237k engine. Once again engine is even, smooth, no smoke and the truck drives good, so he said nothing to pay attention to or be concerned.
The light came back. No changes on yhe performance or anything, except that its my perception that it might be sounding a bit more noticeable after the light comes on, i was reading that a faulty sensor can provoke that, I might be over thinking too much, or paying attention too much to the noise, but I want to change that sensor as precaution.
The fact is that I noticed that noise after the previous oil change I believe.
I recently bought the truck, performed a full fluid service, engine oil, transmission and differential, and started using mobil 1 5-30 as stated on the manual book.

 

https://repairpal.com/detonation-knock-sensor

 

Thing with cheap parts, you might get one that last as long as you own the truck. BUT you might have to go through 3 of them to find that one. So if it's an easy to swap part, no big deal. If it takes hours to swap, the factory part all the way. The reason Toyota last isn't just their design, they use the best parts available.

 

If it's the knock sensor, no brainer- OE only.

 

But once again, how we can determine if its a faulty sensor? Or something triggering the sensor?
Tomorrow ill try to go to pep boys to see what their computer says.

 

I've never had to test a Toyota knock sensor, but I have done plenty of Subaru's which consisted of a resistance test across the terminals. The manual gave a specific OHM range to determine good or bad. I would imagine that the Toyota parts are similar.

 

I think the test is to hit close to them with a hammer and check voltage. No I'm not kidding The 'compyter' PepBoys has is just a reader for your trucks computer.