Turbo BS Thread

Omg that filter!

 

Some body needs to grab this!

 

Holy fawk mate!!!

 

At what level of boost would these be necessary?
Seems that guys run the 3rz with up to 10psi on regular head bolts and gaskets with no issue.

 

I would say past 10. That's relative though, as it would be better based off of what engine power is made/wanted. Plus add rods.

 

With my goal of 20+ lbs of boost, I'm starting to wonder if having my block o-ringed is advisable. Nobody has done it that I've seen?

 

Nah I don't think you need O ring at 20psi. Ran 40 on my 1j with stock gasket/bolts.

 

I likes the sounds of this. When is this happening? Also did anyone ever claim that long block you came across? Or you planning on building that?

 

I had somebody interested, but they found a better one close to them so they passed. It's still sitting on an old tire in my spare shed... I think my current block is probably in the best shape for the time being, so if I build it I'll use this one. I haven't even pulled the plugs out of the free motor yet....

 

I'm really trying to make this engine as overkill as possible so it stays alive for a good long time. For the money I'll eventually sink in it, I'd rather not go "shit, should've done xyz" a year down the road.

 

We think alike. Had a little time to work on some manifold jigs today. Tomorrow, begins.

 

So for some reason you can get a 3.0 turbo diesel Toyota engine with ECU and 4x4 manual trans as a unit shipped for the same price as you can get a 4bt... I'm glad I don't have unlimited funds I suppose, but I am trying to talk my dad into doing a swap on his 77 f250 when the 351's last leg gives out https://www.ebay.com/itm/2849075839...4S--gLm6UPkgsam7iM-n--0DjNM6WTXhoCc_wQAvD_BwE

 

Well now. Turbo upgrade? Lol

 

Stock is only .8 bar sooo 12 ish psi? I feel like that's pretty low for a diesel. I told dad we could up the boost and inject propane and take it from 250 ft/lb to 400... At 2k rpms

That is the 1kd so the one they ran till like 2003 or something SOHC instead of DOHC in the newer ones but it has higher compression than the newer one and is more reliable according to a quick Google search

 

I have more questions.
key reason for the plug and play situation is to be able to return the truck to a prior state if need be for any reason.
I do intend to continue to daily and wheel the taco.

Follow up:
I looked into the Boomslang and SNP.
SNP looks mega convenient for a stupid dollar tag. missing details around the future. (MAP/MAF for closed loop adjustment with temp and altitude change.?)
and boomslang looks like the more appealing route because of the happy medium of plug and play. and mandatory involvement for configuration. and obviously $1000+ difference.

1)
Though I haven't called either company yet to get the situation on air temp/and MAP/MAF stuff (I Will after this business trip).
Both lack on websites for these details and I wanted to know who has used either and which ways you went about managing air temp/ closed loop balance with temp change/altitude change as this seems to be my last hang up at the moment.

2)
Has anyone worked a config that maintains the OBDII ports for Emission reasons?

3)
I'm Kind of set on Haltech because of the boomslang plug; with this said. For what reason would one want the 2000 or 2500 over the 750 since they can all control (min.) 6inj/ig modules. Seems like more available inputs is all I read but still so fresh I'm not sure why I'd need them later.

4)
Good standalone Alternatives would be best with Link; Megasquirt and AEM?

5)
As for injectors; moving up to 440cc should be ample if I do not intend to cross over the 400hp threshold; correct?

Thanks in advanced. Enjoy a picture of my baby shitty Chinese turbo that came in yesterday, in the mean time.

 

I've been eyeing Paddock Performance and there plug N play with megasquirt 2. Half the price of SNP.

I do believe that you can retain obdII with the 2500 Haltech. Can't remember his handle at the moment but the blown first gen with a ton of miles went this route I believe.

 

Word Another website to dive into. thanks man!

 

Please poke holes in this post.

my CX kit just got delivered today(Headers/turbo/WG/ downpipe). going to do the charge piping / IC myself maybe no IC not sure what space i have for it. - Solving that one on the fly I think.

I'm pulling the trigger this week.
-Haltech 2500
-boomslang Harness.
-If no one has something bad to say about the Haltech built in MAP sensor I'm using it.
-Gonna splice the GM IAT Sensor.
-Insert Nameless bung for IAT sensor.(Suggestions welcome)
-Haltech AFR Harness/sensor set up.
-Insert Nameless bung for AFR sensor. (Suggestions welcome)
-650cc injectors
-AEM 340 e85 compatible fuel pump (Not sure which offset variation we need for the taco ATM)
-NO extra bottles. (NOS/METH/Water)
-Ordering a Crank shaft position sensor to have on STDBY as I'm sitting at about 315k on the ODO.

Configuration goal: conservative 8-10lbs of boost.

Before I start ordering this list and wait for everything to arrive I want to know if anyone see's anything minor or critical I am missing.
I am aiming to over engineer to future proof, future mods.

 

@ShiftyShank

8-10psi is totally doable. I'm at 8psi now with a Aem piggy back for 3 plus years. Engine is great, just ripped it at the lake today.

Vibrant has nice stainless O2 bungs, but if you order a wide band guage kit they usually come with a weld bung.

Gm Iat is 3/8 Npt IF I remember correctly. Can look at one tomorrow.
Locash racing has excellent ones for welding.

Haltec should be awesome!

Remember to have the CX manifold flanges decked by a local fabricator or machine shop. I've seen a few in the past that are not flat.

Definitely get a intercooler on there, makes a huge difference. Doesn't need to be a big one. I use a Garrett core and made my own tanks. It's 24" wide, 6.25" tall and 3" thick. I think it was rated at 375 continuous hp, so can definitely do more in bursts. Edit* the core is rated at 475hp.* It leaves alot of direct airflow to the Ac core and radiator. Smaller core is less volume to fill for better transient response, same goes for Ic piping. I run near ambient intake air temps, especially on the highway.

Good luck on your project.

 

Not the fun parts of it and that could be why it isn't listed, but oil feed/return lines and locations, vacuum/boost lines, catch can or whatever you plan on doing with your pcv valve, and a check valve for you brake booster