Long Travel BS Thread

Thats what I'm doing, doing the Tundra rack with the ecentrics, making an adjustable length steering shaft, thus making it so I can bolt a stock steering rack back in if absolutely needed on trail.
Im keeping stock tie rods for the weak point and thus a couple minute swap, doubted I havent been able to break one yet.

 

Yea i like the idea of keeping the inner tie rods thin as an intentional shear point basically. Pretty much how toyota does it from factory anyway. But i think you guys are underestimating how strong the tundra steering is. Even the factory rack is very strong, it's mostly the mount points (not cast into it like the tundra rack) and the power steering pump that hold it back.

Also i just like to be a hater on this subject cause people here have a bad habit of thinking the steering on these trucks is super fragile. But if they're mounting 37s it should magically be indestructible and they go making a fuss when they find out it's not, with little regard that they're going wayyyy beyond the limits of what the truck was designed for

 

Saw when you posted that to insta. Thing gets down.
Need more info on his front end setup. Is it really only mid travel front?

 

No... From the build thread on another forum. It's not a 3.5" kit but not stock width either.

"Since then I changed out the front suspension with a non-production kit that is 1 inch wider per side. There are also a couple of other goodies on the front end that I cannot really discuss right now as they are products that will be coming to market within the next few weeks."

 

Wonder if he's referring to 1st gen specific parts/kit or something else.
Wonder who made the kit. I would love to have a kit like that where you get a good performance bump but not the additional 3.5 width.

 

Production I-beam kit that fits all gens and requires no tuning and is also completely bolt on. Yeah that’s it

 

He works for TC so it's their kit but not an offered product. Idk, maybe their cooking up some 1st gen love? Only time will tell but there's no doubt that this thing boogies.

 

Bolts on to all gens? sounds like a meth'd up pipe dream.

 

Ha. Yeah I’m talking front. I think I’m expecting too much from the rear so I kind of gave up and just live with it.

For travel numbers I have 6.5” uptravel in the front and 7” in the rear.

Yep. Exactly. Bumping off the inner arm. I have around 6.5” uptravel in the front.

That was a dumb question about the spacer. I was thinking if maybe inside the thing had a 1” spacer already then I’d need a 2” spacer. But yeah, I get it now.

I’m still messing with a few things. Initially I had the bump around 80 but now it’s 110-120.

It works okay I’m just worried running on it 80% of the time it’s going to get pretty hot. I figure having the one inch of bump is going to be better than a little poly bump.

 

Just about lol. Idk, that’s my first reaction when someone posts something like that and doesn’t want to talk about it because they’re putting it into production. If it sounds too good to be true it usually is.

In all fairness to them, whatever the solution is, those are some pretty nice results on that truck! Wicked video.

 

For me if I ever had the desire to run 37's on a 2nd or 3rd gen everything forward of the firewall would be chopped off and start over with nothing Tacoma would be going back on. Well maybe the hood and the grill. At that point the only thing a Tacoma might have going for it may be the cab.

 

37’s work like a dream with my truck. I’m just waiting for my rear diff to Grenade. Surprisingly tough.

 

Mine lasted a year and a half with the 37’s. And 5 years with 35’s. And the way I drive that’s pretty surprising. But also not

 

E locker or non? The Non e locker is definitely substantially tougher which doesn’t make much sense. But it’s true. I’ve hopped mine real hard a few times now and thought I pulled the pin. But I guess not.

 

The non elocker is an 8.4 with the carrier brace, elocker is just a plain old school 8".

Buddy blew his 8.4 going up soupbowl on the rubicon, another blew his the other weekend doing the same lines as pictured but with 39" stickies.

So far I havent been able to break my 8.75 with duals/37s and this stuff

 

E locker. And I say surprising but also not because although I drive like an asshole in the fast stuff, in the rocks I hate wheel spin and especially hopping

 

Progress on my trailing arm 3 link. Upper link bracket is welded up, it just needs weld washers and a few more plates to tie it into the frame better, and possibly a tube on the back.it’s pretty secure, it’s all 1/4” p&o cut on my crossfire pro.

 

That’s a really well designed bracket, nice work.

 

Thanks, I took a lot of time making everything functional on the computer instead of throwing together tabs and pre made brackets. Hopefully the rest of them turn out well.

 

Nice work! It may be worth while to tie in the two crossmembers somehow as well. Lots of force applied on link mounts.