RCLT HD 2.75" - Travel Numbers and Notes

To be fair a “stock” setup would never perform the additional functions of this suspension. The RCLT does allow for larger tires without cutting and chopping and tubbing. It does achieve a sick amount of ground clearance, it is A LOT beefier to be beat up on a narly trail. There is zero chance I would of done Poughkeepsie and taken the lines I took wheeling with a jeep gladiator on 38s and kept up, in some cases making it look easy to him (gladiator on 38s). I understand what you are saying. I can’t sit here and type and hat I can put 40s on my Tacoma without more trimming. I don’t expect I’ll be able to change your mind, I think you’ve actually mentioned the pros of this suspension. It’s a very good option for A BUNCH of us out here that do want to crawl/overland/road trip (I hate the term overland). The marketing is just that, marketing. I didn’t buy it for “13” of travel. Not tubing my firewall “had me at hello”. I will still get those numbers in a couple weeks. Bout to go on vacay, honestly you have me curious now. I have a truly driven setup that I wheel hard when I go out. We all spend a dumb amount of cash on our trucks lol. Who the heck rewlly needs 37s and 40s anyway?

 

Define long travel

 

I also didn’t install my rack. I’m assuming since this has been done, I just have to let it go?

 

See above

 

I agree with everything you said except "The RCLT does allow for larger tires without cutting and chopping and tubbing." As the RCLT kit requires cutting and welding to fit the LC200 rack.

The ground clearance that RCLT gives is fantastic, my stock arms are destroyed from dragging them through rocks. And the lc200 rack is a great upgrade over the stock rack, it is not a 1 ton setup though and will still break after repeated abuse.

 

........ I just picked up a set of 40" Nitto K spec stickies... I needed them.

 

You're going to have to find out if that has been removed from your rack...

At this point, I'd say replace the o-ring and reinstall.

 

fair enough. The rack does require fab work, I could not do myself, I am not a welder… yet
All I can say about the “1 ton” rack setup is that it’s pretty darn close. One ton setups break all the time on jeeps. I really wish there was something quantifiable, I do see your point.

the RCLT does allow for larger tires. I looked at putting 35s on before RCLT was chosen. In order to be “completely functional” I would of had to completely chop my front … everything up. With RCLT I have hammered top pinch weld and trimmed my fenders and bobbed my SSO bumper. (Most modern have better Offroad bumpers anyway). For reference, I’ve attached a photo of my 37” mounted and installed with my stock geometry… aftermarket UCA and fox 2.5 with dsc.. but stock geometry. I could not even turn the wheel 5° either way. The firewall needed 4” of tubbing, I can’t even begin to explain the room that was left inner side. RCLT took care of 90% of my 37” problems. It isn’t perfect. The things that need attention are owner and vehicle specific. There is A LOT of customizable options. Yes, I spent some silly money, No it isn’t perfect. Maybe the marketing could tone down and a mild amount of verbiage change for “different level of build”, but for the most part I got what I paid for.

 

You win!! Haha

 

Ugh just for piece of mind, I’ll be doing this. Thank you

 

New pump feels nice, it is a lot smoother over bumps

 

Damn, I wish I knew that ahead of time. I really dont understand the logic of compromising the rack like that.

 

You cant get full travel out of RCLT without tubing. I am only running 37s and had to do extensive tubing. This involved relocating the battery, the windshield reservoir, rerouting the air intake, etc.

 

I called them out on this very early on, I was told they updated their info to reflect this fact, but I was bummed when I discovered I had to chop up my truck.

 

I didn't get what everyone's complaint was here, but after expressing my disappointment regarding the LC200 rack being compromised during install I felt like I just got arrogance and disinterest in the response. Like somehow their decision was the best decision that could have been made. I'd really like to know the logic behind ruining the rack.

 

I dont think there is a point in replacing the oring. It is basically crushed when you install the high pressure line with their adapter and that is their seal. So taking the line out just to look means you will find a dead cat in the box and putting a new oring in will result in the same thing. Plus you will need to bleed the system. So if it isnt leaking, leave it.

The problem is that the only solution is a new rack with the stock bushing intact, unless anyone knows how to replace that bushing, then you can use a proper 16x1.5mm line adapter.. but I don't know how you would swap that without removing the rack.

 

You could also get a 03-09 4runner high pressure line, I had the reverse problem going to the tundra rack on my 4runner and got a taco high pressure line which bolted right to the tundra rack, just needed a different banjo bolt on the pump side. This is why it says that step is only required on the taco and 10+ 4R/FJ.

 

I replaced all the lines with eaton hoses with standard AN fittings. A stock LC200 rack would take a straight 16x1.5mm to -6AN adapter. The benefit to using standard hoses, besides allowing for more flow, is that you can repair them on the trail.

 

Yeah they have updated it, all the way at the end of their main product page they put the disclaimer.

• Please note this is ONLY to install RCLT HD. Your up-travel and tire choice will greatly impact how much extra labor is required to complete your desired build. The basic install is 35" tires with our included low profile bump stops, which requires minimal or no body trimming depending on application

So in turn, i wont have to cut a body mount to fit 35s, but i have to cut and weld my steering rack mounts. And i still might have to cut for tire clearance.

 

The clearance issue I am having now is with the steering shaft, but that is because we gusseted every inch of the frame before the RCLT install. The the location of the steering shaft make it hit the frame. The install requires cutting and rewelding the stock steering shaft, but the ideal solution is something much thinner with the universal joint up higher out of the way of the frame.

My shaft is still slightly grinding away at the frame and getting fine metal dust on to the universal joint.

Here is a video for the curious: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KFpUOkJh0RoR49aq5MISI9bWkL1w4Cyk/view?usp=drivesdk