Turbo BS Thread

Thats rad man! all stock internals?

Thanks for the reply. All helpful information!

All the reading I've done, haven't seen anything about them CX not being flat. Thanks for that!

Figured I was set and clear on the not fun parts; return line is getting bunged straight south of the turbo back to the pan. Was thinking of just a T fitting off the pressor sensor to feed the turbo.
but haven't even bat an eye at the brake booster.. good call.

Thanks guys

 

Even at 5 psi an intercooler makes a surprising difference. I went with an air/water setup.

 

Well I finally got to go test the 2rz turbo this past weekend. Drove it around a bit. Motor hesitated at mid range rpm’s. When I was going 10-15mph the vss said I was doing 158 mph lol. I unplugged the pigtails and it was golden after that. I could actually push my 39s at speed in high range which I couldn’t do before. Low range was a beast as well. The manual controller made it possible to start in 1-4 gear easily. The truck is a different beast all together. Only problem was not tightening the rad mount to the core support. My fan ate the radiator on the last day. No biggie I guess. New radiator with a SPAL fan showed up today. Should be back in business soon.

 

I have been anxious to hear how it ran for you. Now we know. Seems like you've mostly gotten it sorted out, and I am glad for you. A few little punch list things, and it'll be solid for a long time.

You didn't happen to get any videos or pictures while you were out there, did you???

 

The only video I got was when the fan ate the radiator. I Walked Twister and somehow managed to keep my exhaust in tact.

 

Hey folks, need a little help. Noticed today that the filter on my valve cover is pushing oily vapor out and sounds like it’s hissing at idle. Would this indicate a bad PCV valve? I was under the impression this should be drawing in clean air and not pushing oily vapor out

 

Your pcv is meant to release pressure from the crank case. No air will be drawn. Unless you've just removed the pcv and vented to atmosphere.
If it's hissing it's probably under pressure. If it's under pressure it's probably time for a new one as it's no longer performing its function

Edit:

Did you remove the pcv and filter on the valve cover?
Or did you put a filter on your pcv on the valve cover?

 

The outlet of the pcv runs to a catch can and then filter on the valve cover and catch can outlet goes to the fresh air inlet pipe for the turbo

thanks for the info, im gonna swap mine out, I had one hanging around for a rainy day, just need to make time to take the valve cover off

 

You don't need to remove the valve cover to remove the PCV valve. It is tight, but can be done.

We drilled Mike's valve out, if I remember correctly. That way it could never go "bad".

 

This was my follow up question for turbo people. When moving to a catch can couldn't you just plumb the valve cover(s) to the catch can without a pcv?
Only point in the pcv is to prevent crank case pressurization - That said putting an air filter to vent the catch can would be fine to adapt? (Without pcv inline)

I'm tryna plan ahead.

 

@ShiftyShank

You could take it off. I left mine. I hooked a hose from each valve cover, Y them together, then that line goes to catch can. From can the line goes to intake pipe pre turbo. The can was vented at one point but I could smell vapor every so often, so I just put it back into intake track and let the engine cool it like normal.

I actually just emptied it yesterday, very little came out. I do this about every 2 or 3 oil changes. It's definitely separating and condensing the vapor.

I wouldn't run just filters off covers. 1 smell, 2 little leaks of oil.

 

Poor man's tube notcher, for a drill press....





Clamps into a vice. Before I added the tubing, the thin sheet would vibrate too much. Bi-metal hole saw wasn't up to the task on the 321 stainless. Which I knew would be the case. Tried because that was what I had. Home Depot was all out of their 2" Carbide tipped hole saws. So grabbed the Diablo 2" Carbide tipped one. Little did I realize that you have to also purchase their specific quick release chuck. Ugggghhhhh

 

Getting closer on this thing. Really hoping to have it on the road, tuned proper, and with an obnoxious exhaust by Friday. I fitted 2.5” intercooler piping along with that large FMIC this morning and will need to track down a welder that’ll do aluminum. It needs a MAP sensor bung and I may as well have the piping stitched up, too. I used less than half of an $80 fleaBay generic piping kit which looks like there should be enough to do the Tacoma when that time comes.

Used 1.5” aluminum angle to lower the AC condenser as well as rigid mount the IC.


Bumper shoved on and hood almost down it looks fairly good. I’ll need to do some trimming on the bumper to avoid rubbing.

 

Your goal seems highly attainable.

 

How do you hook that up to the drill press? Like to see a picture when it is chucked up.

 

Oops..



Core support and other such has had enough band-aid welds. Everything is dead. Headlights falling out, radiator bouncing around, Ac and Ic doing their own thing, hood hitting intake, ect. Trying to make it a little more solid without going down the rabbit hole.

 

You're not alone there. I rue the day when I have go full tube core support after mine grenades

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ffroad-what-cracks-next.631359/#post-21655263

 

Small vice, with some huge clamps.

 

Got more life out of yours than a lot of 2nd Gens... that's a win.

 

The packaging is easier once you make your own core support. Nothing moves now.